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How to ease the bolt lift on 700s ?

If you have very good measuring tools and how to use them, he will only need the bolt. Call him and he will go through the process with you.
 
Zfast, bolt timing can reduce bolt lift.
If your bolt is out if time it might be compressing the spring more than necessary. That will cause heavier bolt lift.
 
zfastmalibu said:
Erik, I know what your saying. But, to fix that and maintain your pin fall you need to modify the cocking ramp/shelf. Thats not really bolt timing. And once thats done the bolt is still going to open just as hard until you get to the point when the trigger resets, which is when you'd want to stop compressing the spring. I maintain that the only way to reduce your bolt lift is to alter the spring and/or cocking ramp.

When you reduce pin fall you reduce the TIME that it takes for the pin to strike primer. You also reduce the TIME it takes to cock the spring by the way.

I can tell that you think bolt timing only applies when extracting a round. Bolt timing is more than that.
 
The best way to improve bolt lift and timing is to sell your deer rifle and get a Panda,,,I struggled with factory actions till I finally realized that it wasnt up to me to improve every part of my rifle ,,,it was up to me to get a rifle that all I had to worry about was the wind,,,,Roger
 
But what if you have a bolt that has .300" pin fall when cocked but only .260" when on battery? Don't you think that timing it would reduce bolt lift force?
 
It would reduce lift force only after the point when the trigger resets at the very top. I guess we can call all mods to the bolt, action, and firing pin assembly "timing" and you can be right. :D
But, now we are getting into what ifs and hypotheticals. On all the Remingtons I own or have inspected the cocking piece is picked up by the trigger at the very start of bolt close (actually before the bolt is even rotated). They can not continue to cock the spring past the point of trigger reset because the bolt is fully open. None of them have excessive spring compression or pin fall. But hypothetically its possible.
 
zfastmalibu-
2 Questions
1.Is a Remington cock on OPEN?
2.Is a Remington cock on CLOSE?

If you answered YES to question 1 you are correct.
If you answered NO to question 2 you would be incorrect.
 
Dans40X said:
zfastmalibu-
2 Questions
1.Is a Remington cock on OPEN?
2.Is a Remington cock on CLOSE?

If you answered YES to question 1 you are correct.
If you answered NO to question 2 you would be incorrect.

What is your real question?
 
butchlambert said:
I don't think he really asked a question, he made a statement. Answer Dan and he can further fill you in.
How can I answer a statement Butch?

Dan, of course its cock on open, but most have a little cock on close as well.
 
Dan, of course its cock on open, but most have a little cock on close as well.
[/quote]

What is your guesstimation of a little?

Does this little hinder bolt manipulation?
 
On mine its .010" I have seen up to .030". Anytime there is cocking after the trigger picks up the cocking piece theres going to be a "bump" in the bolt closing. I personally hate cock on close and grind the top lever in my triggers to give me no cock on close, unless it reduces pin fall too much. No doubt timing makes bolt close much nicer.
 
And rather than trying to set me up with sarcastic questions, if you think I am wrong in my thinking just explain it to me. I am here to learn, and not argue just to be right. If I am wrong and you explain it me I'll be the first to admit it. :)
 
My first statement was not meant to be sarcastic in any way shape or form.
I'm trying not to use the word-"TIMING"

.010" would be a starting point.
.050"-.070" is usually the norm.

Does your trigger pull weight change depending on how you cycle the bolt?
 
zfastmalibu said:
And rather than trying to set me up with sarcastic questions, if you think I am wrong in my thinking just explain it to me. I am here to learn, and not argue just to be right. If I am wrong and you explain it me I'll be the first to admit it. :)

You have his email and website and certainly can get his phone number. Call him up and he will be glad to explain anything to you. I've done business with Dan before, worth every penny of it.
 
"Locating" & "Timing" a handle to a bolt body to improve primary extraction is part of the equation-not the final answer.

Depending on how other variables fall into place will change trigger pull in excess of 3/4Lb depending on how you cam the bolt into battery.

Remington owners manuals (pre 2006)state to close the bolt "smartly".
Closing the bolt too smartly & you'll be holding the handle in hand due to excessive harmonics in the induction silver brazed joint.
 
Simply allowing all parts to work in unison will afford you 2(two) finger bolt manipulation.

It does not take an extended-Louisville Slugger Baseball Bat -TactiKool bolt knob modification either.
(weight/arm & moment that you do not have to lift)

No,I am not modifying the mainspring or striker/cocking piece finger or cocking ramp geometry.
 
I am glad this discussion has proceeded. I was raised on gas guns and Anschütz 1400 and 1900 series actions, so the feel of a Remington is somewhat foreign to me. My Anschütz's will reset the trigger with only bolt lift, so it was strange to notice that I needed to retract the bolt slightly on my XR-100 to get the trigger to reset. Also, my trigger pull definitely varies. Is this because the cocking piece settles differently each time?
 
I ease bolt lift by backing off the powder charge weight! ;) Bolt timing if wrong, will also ease lift. The problem is, that not everyone that attempts bolt timing does it correctly.
 
timeout said:
I ease bolt lift by backing off the powder charge weight! ;) Bolt timing if wrong, will also ease lift. The problem is, that not everyone that attempts bolt timing does it correctly.

I'd like to know what the powder charge has to do with bolt lift, other than being way over charged.
 

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