How to begin inletting this stock?

[Killroy]

I need some advice on how to attack inletting this stock. The stock is a Boyd's blaster. Action is an anschutz 1432 ( I think). Magazine fed, 22 k hornet.

I think this stock style is typically a rimfire deal. This hump in the back I think is for 10/22 style guns.

My attack plan is to mill that hump off flush with the rest of the stock. Find center of the stock.
Locate my action fore/aft, then drill my action screw holes.

Then mill out the barrel channel and action area.

Mock it all together then I let the trigger guard. ( After I make a bottom metal piece for the magazine we'll)

Anyone know what boyds sprays on these things? The description said un inletted stocks come unfinished, which would have been preferred but we know how things go now a days. So I will need to try and match this clear coat if I mill that hump off

 

[LVLAaron]

Sounds like you have a plan. Like Al always says; locate the trigger and do everything else based on that.

For the finish... I would sand the whole thing when you're done, and spray it with Spraymax 2k satin.

 

[Hal]

Layout always starts at the trigger.

 

[Killroy]

Layout always starts at the trigger.

Could you expand a little on this? Do you ruff in your channel first, then open up the trigger hole to locate LOP then drill action screw holes?

 

[WayneShaw]

I start with the rear action screw hole. Everything works off that.

 

[joshb]

Could you expand a little on this? Do you ruff in your channel first, then open up the trigger hole to locate LOP then drill action screw holes?

With a stock like that, you need to find the “comfortable distance” of the trigger and trigger guard in front of the grip. You also can’t have your rear action screw in the grip.
I have one in the works.


Here’s a couple Remington clones and a Tikka as examples:

 

[Killroy]

Got it. Thank you

 

[pdhntr]

With that "thumbhole" stock you are going to have to decide how you want to place your hand to shoot, before you start inletting, and then put the trigger there. In other words, if you put your thumb in the hole and then crook your index finger as if to shoot you will find that it moves the trigger way back. If you don't use the thumbhole then the trigger will be set farther forward. The distance marked with an arrow is the variable on your stock.

If you decide to use the thumbhole, you may want to reshape it so it is more comfortable to use, or get your hand farther forward for a more comfortable reach to the trigger. In all likelihood, if you use the thumbhole you will have to grove the pistol grip to set the trigger guard back and be able to reach the rear action screw.

If it is a savage no problems as they don't have an action screw at the rear of the action, and a simple notch will hold the rear of the trigger guard, but most do, as the Mauser does in the image below.


Jim

 

[AlNyhus]

Not being real smart, I have to start from the start....doing the trigger position first. I use a cut off trigger finger piece from a 700 trigger and Velcro it to the stock to verify where I want it. Once that's marked out on the sides, I flip the stock on it's top and put in the rear action screw hole. Then go forward and do the front screw. Now, everything else has to fit relative to these two points. The barrel channel rough in comes next....double and triple check everything before you do this. Finally, the receiver gets cut in. That's actually the simplest part of the deal as there's not many places for it go.

Not establishing the trigger position first is guaranteed to give you gas and sleepless nights.

By following this procedure, I can muddle through. The stuff I do is pretty functional. Here's a couple that may give you an idea.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[Sniperhandle]

With that "thumbhole" stock you are going to have to decide how you want to place your hand to shoot, before you start inletting, and then put the trigger there. In other words, if you put your thumb in the hole and then crook your index finger as if to shoot you will find that it moves the trigger way back. If you don't use the thumbhole then the trigger will be set farther forward. The distance marked with an arrow is the variable on your stock.
View attachment 1709259
If you decide to use the thumbhole, you may want to reshape it so it is more comfortable to use, or get your hand farther forward for a more comfortable reach to the trigger. In all likelihood, if you use the thumbhole you will have to grove the pistol grip to set the trigger guard back and be able to reach the rear action screw.

If it is a savage no problems as they don't have an action screw at the rear of the action, and a simple notch will hold the rear of the trigger guard, but most do, as the Mauser does in the image below.
View attachment 1709260

Jim

Nice Mauser!

 

[Killroy]

Here's how it's going so far. I've got it to where it fits in my inlet. I just discovered (I kinda thought this was going to be the case) my stock is too thick and my magazine doesn't protude out the bottom. I'm working on fixture to hold this thing 90 degrees so I can mill down the bottom of the stock an maintain decent looking lines, 10 degree slope.

 

[joshb]

Your trigger and trigger guard will determine the action depth in the stock. If you look at my stocks, you’ll notice I intentionally leave the wood to cover the magazines.

 

[Killroy]

Your trigger and trigger guard will determine the action depth in the stock. If you look at my stocks, you’ll notice I intentionally leave the wood to cover the magazines.

Here is a good picture of what I have going on. The original design is intended to be a sporter (First picture).You can see how the taper matches the angle of the magazine.
Are you saying that you set yours up to look more like the example (second one down) in this picture? My magazine is buried a little further than this.

 

[LVLAaron]

Show us a better shot of how much trigger is poking out the bottom

 

[Killroy]

Show us a better shot of how much trigger is poking out the bottom

Here you go. I need to thin it down a little bit at the trigger too. What I think I need to do is exaggerated on the tape with a marker. Any opinions?

 

[Twdmar]

Here you go. I need to thin it down a little bit at the trigger too. What I think I need to do is exaggerated on the tape with a marker. Any opinions?View attachment 1716949View attachment 1716950View attachment 1716951

I would just mill it parallel with the top of the stock until you relieve enough to get your trigger out, rather than cutting that scoop out. It doesn't look like much needs to come off.
Then just mill around the magazine to be able to get it out.
As for your question about how to start, find the centerline first. Then place action screw holes based on where the trigger needs to be(I think most stocks make for a long reach to the trigger so i may put mine pretty far rearward).

 

[Killroy]

I would just mill it parallel with the top of the stock until you relieve enough to get your trigger out, rather than cutting that scoop out. It doesn't look like much needs to come off.
Then just mill around the magazine to be able to get it out.
As for your question about how to start, find the centerline first. Then place action screw holes based on where the trigger needs to be(I think most stocks make for a long reach to the trigger so i may put mine pretty far rearward).

Gotchya. My original plan in my head has bottom metal around the magazine well, so the magazine has to stick out a little bit, at least at the rear.
I think I was will start with your idea and then remove material if needed. It's a lot easier to remove it than put it back.

 

[joshb]

Take wood off the top and lower your action cut. You can step the cut around the action and leave it high on the fore arm.
Like this: