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How "tight" does a Bbl. have to be tightened ?

I remember watching two BR shooters change bbl's at the range. they would use a small strap wrench to brake the Bbl's loose, but they would only use a "snapping motion" from their wrist and hand to tighten the Bbl's. That must have been sufficient as they used that technique at their match's.
I'm asking as I'm thinking about setting up my Rem. 700 with a few Bbl's I see F/S on the classified and would like to simply life by not having to hall a Bb. vice ,ect. to the range.
 
A lot of custom actions have 18 tpi, your 700 has 16 tpi you need to tighten (more torque) on your Rem than the customs. The threads are not as good of quality on most Remingtons.
 
Thank you,
with my CRS getting worse every day it's probably better that I set up the shop with a Bbl vice and wrench or I'd probably get to the range and forget something.
 
A vise/wrench and 2 C clamps will fit in one of your wife's old purses.
The machining on rem barrels and actions will need more that a "snap" of the wrist .
John H.
 
My gunsmith recommends 65 ft. lbs., and that's what I use, but have gone as low as 45 ft. lbs. (verified with a torque wrench) and had no problems. He also cautioned me that too much torque and the recoil lug pin will shear. They are necessarly a very small diameter on a Remington 700 receiver.
 
This gentleman, top gunsmith, and national competitor told me he hand tightens his barrels with a good "grunt": http://stevensaccuracy.com/html/benchrest.html I can tell you personally that his barrel work and my BAT actions fit together like a very fine precise steel vault. :)
 
I have had a couple of Rem 700 switch barrel rifles for over 25 years, I primarily use factory take-off barrels and the receiver has the factory threads in it. I have always changed them by using a snapping motion and never had an issue. As far as the effect on accuracy, the varmint calibers all hang right around one-half inch groups (depending on the barrel and caliber) which I find more than acceptable accuracy for a varmint gun.

drover
 
Macropod said:
Depends on the action and quality of the barrel tenon work.

I generally torque mine to no more than 40ft/lbs.

That's where I am....an indicated 40lbs/ft with a wipe of anti seize on the threads.
 
YOu can say that again.. Just took a barrel off my Sendero.. Finally resorted to heat and a 24" Rigid pipe wrench!!!! Damn. Crazy tight.
 
I asked my smith this question a week and a half ago. I was more concerned with headspace/accuracy. I wanted he barrel to return back to the place where he set it to. His email reply read 35ft/lbs. I think I will start switching barrels.
 
I have a very precise method of obtaining proper barrel torque. I have a 16" barrel wrench and I then slide over a 30" cheater bar piece of black pipe, then give it some muscle until a fart squeeks out of my butt and i'm torqued to exactly 63 ft./lb . ;)
 
A slight side track, on the Rem. factory barrels it is a combination of torque and a reaction the grease on the threads has with the blueing process. It seems like a glue but it isn't. The trick is to use LIGHT heat with a propane torch then a good whack on the wrench. If this doesn't work set the barrel up in the lathe and machine a relief cut just forward of the recoil lug.
Steve Bair
 
Rtheurer said:
if it goes until a SHART happens.. that's about 60ftlbs. So bad.....

In my experiences a SHART is 86 ft./lb. No need for that level of tightness and related messy complications.
 
Road_Clam said:
Rtheurer said:
if it goes until a SHART happens.. that's about 60ftlbs. So bad.....

In my experiences a SHART is 86 ft./lb. No need for that level of tightness and related messy complications.

Thanks for clearing that up......... 8)
 
Road--Clam I had my gunsmith put a barrel on a Rem. Custom action that was a 338 UM. he told me it took 3 men and a boy to get it off.Needles to say the thing was cross threaded. I wanted it true anyway. But do you think you would have drawn mud getting this one off. ::)

Joe Salt
 

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