How much recoil pad for new 8mm Mauser build?

[mauser284]

So growing up I have shot all of my 8mm Mausers with sporterized military stock and steel but plate.


So since I am going to get a stock from Richards Microfit Gun Stocks I am likely going to pay for them to fit a recoil pad to it.


I never thought about a recoil pad before. In my youth I would put 60 rounds of 300 Win Mag down range a couple times a week from a bench and prone. I am 50 now and thinking that it would not hurt to have an actual recoil pad.

I just had to buy a vechile for the wife so one of my twins could have her car after he was hit by a semi-truck and his car totaled. Been looking for months and it was mission impossible to find a docent car for him at $8000 and under that was not a POS that would have sold for $800 3 years ago! No friends or family had anything for sale either. Keeping the rest of my families fleet running not cheap either.

So I am looking to get an effective recoil pad but would prefer not to break the bank.


So I would like to hear some opinions. I am thinking the decelerator recoil pad would be overkill even on hot 8mm Mauser loads.


Also wondering if anyone has installed QD sling mounts into wood for a flat riding rifle when slung on ones back?


When I am done with this build I will post pictures I think a lot of you guys might like the twist on this build!


Thanks for the opinions no matter which way they go.

This Mauser has a fairly heavy barrel profile and the stock could end up being laminate which would make it rather heavy as well! So not a feather weight magnum where a decelerator might make real sense!


P.S. Steel but plate and or brass not an option since this will not be a military stock the height of most steel and brass but plates are designed for butts that are not as tall as a modern sportster or prone stock most are for military or Kentucky rifle butts that are not that tall.

 

[tommeboy]

I think I had them do the 1/2" pad on one of mine I did. I got the Monte Carlo for a m48. It was the very first one they made. It has a lot of extra wood on there so be prepared to do some sanding.

 

[shortgrass]

I never install a pad until all of the shaping and 99% of the sanding is done. I'll cut the butt to length, and then install a 1/8" steel template so as to keep the edges sharp and not rounded off. Same with the grip cap. I don't want to have to work around a pre-installed, glued-on, rubber recoil pad, where I could drag the rubber sandings into the wood and then have to work around the pad while applying sealers and finishes. You may think you're saving time and labor by having them install the pad,,,, I have found that to not be the case..... The biggest mistake people make when stock fitting/finishing/making is getting ahead of themselves.

 

[Big Mc]

So growing up I have shot all of my 8mm Mausers with sporterized military stock and steel but plate.


So since I am going to get a stock from Richards Microfit Gun Stocks I am likely going to pay for them to fit a recoil pad to it.


I never thought about a recoil pad before. In my youth I would put 60 rounds of 300 Win Mag down range a couple times a week from a bench and prone. I am 50 now and thinking that it would not hurt to have an actual recoil pad.

I just had to buy a vechile for the wife so one of my twins could have her car after he was hit by a semi-truck and his car totaled. Been looking for months and it was mission impossible to find a docent car for him at $8000 and under that was not a POS that would have sold for $800 3 years ago! No friends or family had anything for sale either. Keeping the rest of my families fleet running not cheap either.

So I am looking to get an effective recoil pad but would prefer not to break the bank.


So I would like to hear some opinions. I am thinking the decelerator recoil pad would be overkill even on hot 8mm Mauser loads.


Also wondering if anyone has installed QD sling mounts into wood for a flat riding rifle when slung on ones back?


When I am done with this build I will post pictures I think a lot of you guys might like the twist on this build!


Thanks for the opinions no matter which way they go.

This Mauser has a fairly heavy barrel profile and the stock could end up being laminate which would make it rather heavy as well! So not a feather weight magnum where a decelerator might make real sense!


P.S. Steel but plate and or brass not an option since this will not be a military stock the height of most steel and brass but plates are designed for butts that are not as tall as a modern sportster or prone stock most are for military or Kentucky rifle butts that are not that tall.

A brake may be the way to go. Tommy Mc

 

[durand mortenson]

I would try a good recoil pad a first. you can always add the brake. If you use the brake you may find the noise excessive....or those around you will.
Just my 2bits

Mort

 

[joshb]

I like the Pachmeyer pads.

 

[ebb]

I think it like scope magnification, no such thing as too much.

 

[mauser284]

Well I went with the 1" field pad.

I went with laminate but have no clue how it will look with blued rifle. All of my laminate stocks have been factory rifles that had stainless or cerokote from the factory.

It is also a stock I think is a bit on the ugly side but I hope will split the difference between a prone stock and off hand hunting stock. Not for serious prone work as in competition shooting but for when you are hunting and need to shoot prone.

I opted for uncle mikes sling studs so I can use an existing old school bipod. I am still considering QD mounts for a sling that would allow the rifle to lie flat across your back when slung.

I chose the rather unconventional Field Trekker stock. I might rasp off the grooved finger grip?

 

[mauser284]

Oh I am getting it with a 1 1/4 barrel channel.

I will pillar bed and glass bed.

Not sure what coating I will use on the wood.

I have a lot of experience with epoxy based lacquer that I use on the custom trumpets I build and I have a lot of experience with automotive clear coat. Not with wood though. Since I have never finished a laminate stock only natural wood stocks I have always used either boiled linseed oil or 100% Tung Oil.

With all the resin and heat used to make these modern laminates does one even need to seal them? I would imagine they are water proof after they come out of the oven/kiln etc?

 

[mauser284]

From a practical stand point I think this stock profile could be super practical for a lot of people.

For instance in a Walnut stock to save weight it could be easily pressed into Silhouette service with out being an only Silhouette stock.

I like the more vertical grip for occasional prone shooting while hunting. Sometimes you need to stay low and will not be using shooting sticks or your sling especialy if you sling on the side with QD mounts. Not sure how a sling would work with side mounted QD mounts since I have not tried them yet.

I almost opted for this in Fiddle Back Maple but since this is a quasi tactical/truck gun/ blinker based off of a Mauser with no real metal work I could not bring myself to do that. Figured I would save the Maple for a more refined and civilized build! LOL

This is to be more in the spirit of what could have been built by Germany as a sniper rifle. Since Germany had heavy 8mm machinegun barrels and they had laminate stocks and they had optics. I wanted to make something like that. So I did not have any blue printing done to the action as that would not be in the spirit of a WWII military sniper rifle. I can always do that later if it needs it!

So with the above said I used the following: M48 Yugo receiver, milled steel bottom metal, Swedish 8mm 8x63 barrel shortened, threaded and rechambered for 8x57 Mauser and Ken Farrell 30MOA scope base. The Mausers had a primitive almost pillar bedded action so I will do a modern proper pillar bedding and glass bedding.

It would have been interesting to put an old steel tube 4X or 6X Weaver scope on it or an old Redfield Wide View! LOL.. Just to finish it I will toss a spare 4X-12X on it but I might still look into a 6X or 10X fixed power scope for it. Even a fixed power SWFA SS 6X or 10X will be a huge upgrade from what Germany issued in WWII but would be in keeping with the spirit of the build!

 

[mauser284]

I like the Pachmeyer pads.View attachment 1485653View attachment 1485654

You did a beautiful job on those stocks! Wow!

 

[mauser284]

I would try a good recoil pad a first. you can always add the brake. If you use the brake you may find the noise excessive....or those around you will.
Just my 2bits

Mort

I could put a break on it. It would violate the spirit of the build a bit but I do not recall mentioning my intentions before so. That said Germany did have breaks on big guns.


I should put up a photo soon of just the action, barrel and scope base which are all down. I need to re-blue the bottom metal. My M48 was an M48B with the stamped bottom metal and switched it out for milled bottom metal from an M48A but the receiver was unissued condition and the barrel was Swedish NOS but the M48A bottom metal was well used and shows signs of wear. I would like it all to match.

I got lucky when oiled the Yugo receiver and the Swedish barrel bluing match so closely you would never guess they where not issued together!

 

[mauser284]

I also have some actual Yugo M75 NOS Mil-Surplus sniper ammo to replicate period WWII German Sniper ammo. I will roll some match grade stuff with Sierra 200gr. bullets as well. I might build another one on a full size 98 and maybe let my gunsmith accurize that action and see how they compare A-B. It would be interesting to see if accurizing the action helps at all given the barrels are military machine gun barrels?

 

[David Milisock]

So growing up I have shot all of my 8mm Mausers with sporterized military stock and steel but plate.


So since I am going to get a stock from Richards Microfit Gun Stocks I am likely going to pay for them to fit a recoil pad to it.


I never thought about a recoil pad before. In my youth I would put 60 rounds of 300 Win Mag down range a couple times a week from a bench and prone. I am 50 now and thinking that it would not hurt to have an actual recoil pad.

I just had to buy a vechile for the wife so one of my twins could have her car after he was hit by a semi-truck and his car totaled. Been looking for months and it was mission impossible to find a docent car for him at $8000 and under that was not a POS that would have sold for $800 3 years ago! No friends or family had anything for sale either. Keeping the rest of my families fleet running not cheap either.

So I am looking to get an effective recoil pad but would prefer not to break the bank.


So I would like to hear some opinions. I am thinking the decelerator recoil pad would be overkill even on hot 8mm Mauser loads.


Also wondering if anyone has installed QD sling mounts into wood for a flat riding rifle when slung on ones back?


When I am done with this build I will post pictures I think a lot of you guys might like the twist on this build!


Thanks for the opinions no matter which way they go.

This Mauser has a fairly heavy barrel profile and the stock could end up being laminate which would make it rather heavy as well! So not a feather weight magnum where a decelerator might make real sense!


P.S. Steel but plate and or brass not an option since this will not be a military stock the height of most steel and brass but plates are designed for butts that are not as tall as a modern sportster or prone stock most are for military or Kentucky rifle butts that are not that tall.

Not to be a butt head but, the recoil pad depends on the weight and quality of the cut of stock. I shoot a couple in 8MM Mauser in Ramline stocks and from the bench their standard recoil pad is fine for the 150 grain but the WWII 174 grain hammers you a bit. Field shooting is no issue. The grip on mine is a bit small form my hand, my son's hand is a bit smaller so he has less issues. In my opinion these are very utilitarian stocks but low end.

I have a Ramline with their standard recoil pad on a custom 98 Mauser in 450 Marlin dangerous game rifle (cut for 500 grain projectiles) loaded to 60,000 PSI.

The barrel is a tad heavier so I placed lead weight in the stock to bring the center of balance back so it swings more appropriately. The added weight helped recoil a bit, from the bench recoil is stiff.

Recoil during field shooting is easier on you so a standard recoil pad in 8MM should be no issue.

Spend time ergo money on a better fit and worry less about the recoil pad.

 

[durand mortenson]

I like the Pachmeyer pads.View attachment 1485653View attachment 1485654

 

[durand mortenson]

Beautiful lumber.

Mort

 

[MGYSGT]

Look at the recoil absorbing things they put on shotguns. they make them for rifles, but most are built into the stock. The shotgun ones work just fine and are an after build accessory. I put one on my shotgun and after shooting it I thought, why not my rifle. It is very pleasant to shoot. They are adjustable for heavy to light recoil. They make one that adjust to length and one that adjust to length and recoil. About $250

 

[joshb]

Beautiful lumber.

Mort

Thanks. The stock in the top pic was the first one I ever made. When I started to sand the butt and saw the grain, my own butt puckered.” I better not screw this up!” crossed my mind. After I did a few more, I reshaped that cheekpiece.

 

[durand mortenson]

You are definitely a craftsman.

Mort

 

[Forum Boss]

Good luck on the Richard's Microfit stock. I had one for a Savage. The external roughness of the wood was the worst I have ever seen -- it took hours of sanding to prep for a basic finish. The inletting was very poorly done. I would never send that outfit another dime.