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How much MOA needed for a scope on a .308 to do 100yds shots?

I am considering a Rem .308 tactical in .308. I will need a scope that I can attempt the ocassional 1000 yrd shots-just for fun. How much MOA adjustment do I need. Any suggestions for scope $ 800.00 or less.
 
For 100yds (in title) none. For 1000yds 20 or 30 MOA should do it depending on how far off center you want to be at closer ranges.
 
You can buy a new LEUPOLD VX-3 6.5-20x50 Long Range Target Riflescope, Fine Duplex Reticle, Matte Black 66575 for right at $750 shipped at http://www.okefenokeeoutdoors.com.

It has 75+ MOA elevation adj. It'll get ya out there. I bought a scope from them recently. Great service.
 
With 175s, you are going to need 38-40 MOA to get to 1000, maybe less but somewhere in that neighborhood. Your base rings combo might not match up well to center the reticle so any scope with only 25-40 MOA will not work

Recommend you add a 20 MOA base to help you center the reticle as a minimum.
 
If there isn't a driving reason to use something else, I always use Burris Signature Zee rings.

They have inserts that not only protect your scope from ring marks (which helps resale), but they have 0, 5 and 10 MOA offset inserts that you can combine to get various degrees of built in elevation or declination.
 
One thing you might want to invest in is a 20 moa base to mount the scope on. I have 20 moa bases on all my rifles and have no problem shooting 100 yd. also.
 
For a scope, I'd strongly consider a Sighton SIII 8-32x56. Great scope for the money. Friend recently bought one new for 750.00 or so.
 
r bose said:
For a scope, I'd strongly consider a Sighton SIII 8-32x56. Great scope for the money. Friend recently bought one new for 750.00 or so.

Very nice scope, very good optics. I have one on my .338 Lapua Magnum and it seems to be standing up to the recoil of that beast quite nicely.
 
The one thing that isn't clear here although it was mentioned is that it is imperative to get a 20moa scope rail (one piece steel). There is really never a downside to this and it gives you an extra 20moa or adjustment. If your scope advertises 30moa then you'll have 50 moa available and that is always enough to get to 1000 yds unless you're really short on powder....

I too like the sightron. Shooting 600 yd benchrest with a 10-50.

--Jerry
 
OP, Imagine you mount a scope with 75 moa of travel, total. How much of that is used up just getting a 1 hundred yard zero? You could easily be wasting the lower end of your travel such that you only have 35-40 moa of ups left. Depending on your load, and environmental factors, you may need more than that to get to 1000. Note whether your reticle actually moves as you dial in those last 5-6 moa==often nothing moves , thus those last 5-6 are useless, or worse=do not hold. This is where many fine fellows have chimed in to suggest you get a base with a slope built into it to give you an extra 20-25 moa by using the lower range of elevation come-ups you were wasting completely just to get that 100 zero. Do you know what a 'base' is ? or a "Picatinny rail" ? Do you get it ? Seymour
 
r bose said:
For a scope, I'd strongly consider a Sighton SIII 8-32x56. Great scope for the money. Friend recently bought one new for 750.00 or so.
8) Exactly what I use on my .308, from 500 to 1,000 yards with excellent results.
...With a 20 MOA base.
 
GSPV said:
If there isn't a driving reason to use something else, I always use Burris Signature Zee rings.

They have inserts that not only protect your scope from ring marks (which helps resale), but they have 0, 5 and 10 MOA offset inserts that you can combine to get various degrees of built in elevation or declination.
Just to ad to this... Burris has 0,05 010, 020 inserts for 1" scopes and 0,.010 for 30mm scopes. So up to 40 with a 1" tube and 20 with a 30 mm tube.
 
This off topic, but does apply here so here goes. Not everyone of us that read this forum are a knowledgeable and well rounded as others on every topic. If you look at the OP number of replies, he is comparatively new to a lot of us. I have caught myself doing this very thing. I assume that because I know something and as such take it fore granted, that everyone else knows it also. Over the years I have seen a lot of questions ask that I considered very elementary, and I'm sure I've posed some that others thought the same. we are all here to seek information. Some very technical and complex, other questions more basic. All of us should take a minute to think of this before busting someones chops. After all, we all started at the same place, the beginning.
Lloyd
 
BountyHunter said:
With 175s, you are going to need 38-40 MOA to get to 1000, maybe less but somewhere in that neighborhood. Your base rings combo might not match up well to center the reticle so any scope with only 25-40 MOA will not work

Recommend you add a 20 MOA base to help you center the reticle as a minimum.

BountyHunter is dead on here. I shoot 175s in my 308, and it requires about 38 MOA to get to 1,000. You really have to know how much adjustment is in your scope before you can say what you'll need in a canted base, but 20-25 MOA with any reasonable amount of adjustment will do it. Keep in mind that the more cant in your base, the farther off center you reticle will be to zero at shorter ranges (can be an issue with cheaper scopes).
 
Got to say it...

Go find someone that shoots competitively (and places well or wins regularly) at 1000 yards and take notes of what they use and get their advice.

I have unfortunately noted that some of the responses that you get, even here, are low enough in quality that you won't get the most out of your efforts. The hard part is separating the good information from the guesses. That is just the nature of the internet.
 
Just to be clear. The inserts for the Burris Signature rings are in inches, not MOAs. They have .005, .010, and .020 inches in offset, plus or minus. MOA is an angle value and you can't have an angle from just one point. If you want to figure out the MOA offset you can get with the inserts, you need to measure the distance between the two rings in inches, for example, 4 inches. Then you need to figure out how you will use the inserts; so if you use a - .010 in the bottom of the front ring and a corresponding + .010 on top and for the back right you do the reverse, you will have a difference of .020 between the back and the front over a distance of 4 inches. A quick trigonometric calculation using arctangent values or better yet; this website: http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp and you see that the value of angle A is .29 or 17.5 minutes. Easy peasy.

A 20MOA ramp shifts the zero point on a scope, it does not add to the adjustment range. If your scope has 45 MOA total adjustment range, the centerline, supposedly parallel to the bore would be at 22.5. So you would have 22.5 up adjustment and 22.5 down adjustment. Using the 20MOA ramp properly it will change this to 42.5MOA up adjustment and 2.5MOA down adjustment. Of course, if you mount the ramp incorrectly you will have 2.5MOA up adjustment and 42.5 down adjustment. This could be useful shooting from a mountain top. :)
 
I am the origional poster. I bought a Burris scope w/30mm tube with 60 moa. I have leupold scope rings and one piece 10 moa base. From what I read that should do it. Some of my shooting will be at 600-500 or usually less. I just wanted to do 1000 yds at least a few times. My reloads are with laupa brass, 175 SMKs and either IMR 4064 or Varget. Still working on loads. Thanks for all the replies
 
Hope this helps.

Purchased a Sav 12 FTR in 308 with a 20 MOA base (nightforce) and a Vortex 6-24 PST SFP last year (65 MOA of travel) - I can really recommend this scope for the money $750. Initially mounted in a PEPR mount. Zeroed at 100 with 155 SMK going 3010 fps and had 41 MOA left in scope from 100 yd zero. Took to 1000 for my first 1000 yd match. Ran out of elevation, needing 2 more MOA. Something I did not consider was that near mechanical extremes, a 1/4 click may not be worth 1/4 click. (later determined that I needed 35 MOA to get there)

Purchased Burris Sig Zee rings with inserts based upon good advice here. Remounted scope with +-10 inserts. Zeroed at 100 again and had 55 MOA of travel. Shot Hornady 178 HPBT going 2825fps at 1000 next time out. Needed 29 MOA from 100 yd zero.

Shot yesterday at 1st 1000 yd match of the year here. Needed 30 MOA from 100 yd zero for Berger 185s going 2700ish.

All of my scopes are in Burris sig zee mounts and 20-30 MOA rails. I've come to like to have scope be near its optical center at the most common range I am going to shoot it. For example, if I will normally shoot a rifle at 600yd and the scope has 65 MOA of elevation (32.5 up and 32.5 down) and my load needs 12 MOA to get there from 100yds, I like to have the action, barrel, base, sig rings and scope combo zeroed at 100 at about 20 MOA up from mech bottom of scope so that when I put the 12 MOA on I am near optical center of scope. This should also maximize windage available. For example I needed 17 MOA of wind on my first relay yesterday and by my third relay had removed all 17 and added 5 in the other direction (and had to hold 3+ MOA in both directions during firings), so it can be helpful to have as much windage available. I heard a few people on the line comment that they would be running out of windage soon if the wind picked up any more.

Drew
 

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