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How many reloads before annealing

From a guy that sells cases, I know where you are coming from. I set records with cases annealed every firing and fired a 100+ times and with uniform neck tension. I learned to anneal before I fire formed new 6 br brass to Dasher because of split shoulders with the original annealing Lapua done. I know you don't remember it because I am still waiting for the replacement brass when I was having 90% failures.
Are you saying someone owes you a batch of cases?
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Are you saying someone owes you a batch of cases?
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It was so long ago I even forgot about it, maybe 8 or so years. It was the brown box stuff, that lot cracked, till annealed every lot before or after never did. They will replace them with an other lot, guess what you can do with it, replace the whole lot you have with an other makes more sense.After I figured out what was wrong, I was good to go.I even cases that looked like rivets, different caliber in the box...... jim
 
I never saw the purpose on the cases that I fire. They happen to be easy on the brass. .222Rem (lost count long time ago on number of reloads but my records show 35 then I no longer kept track). 30 BR another one I feel is easy on the brass also. 6.5BR too. They all shoot groups that are, for me, really good.
If I felt there was a neck tension problem OR split necks I might consider it but so far NO. I think my reloads are fairly well sorted out and it is ME that is the unknown. Never saw the reason for annealing as it was not needed, same as weighing primers, or chamfering when you have not trimmed a case. Wish fixing ME was as easy as these steps are.
 
Who ever said reloading your own is cheaper . I benchrest only 308 Cal. I was getting 25+ reloads from my cases , I shoot 30 rounds every range trip 3 ten shot groups and I'm done . If one out of the 30 showed any signs , I dump the lot . Never got into heating the neck and shoulder area . I did switch from dry to wet tumbling after 30+ years . I full size using a standard RCBS F/L die with the expander , l leave the expander shaft with alittle wiggle room to self center , sizing is smooth also seating all have the same smooth feel , depending on what cases the neck tension is .003 to .004 . Also never got into neck turning .
 
I started annealing my brass after every fourth reload, my just be me but I can tell when the neck is getting harder because my trimmer will "chatter" instead of peeling off brass. I use the salt bath method for now but really want a machine like the Annealeez.
 
Some sort of professional annealing machine is up next on my reloading journey for purchasing. I just started ghetto annealing not long ago. But I have a question just out of curiousity. What issues have you personally encountered without annealing and how many loads did it take to get to that point. For me 4 to 5 loads and my neck tension is all over to the point facory ammo would be way more consistent to shoot. I ask because it seems a lot of people get into reloading and have no emphasis on annealing when to me, it defeats the purpose of reloading if you’re not annealing.

Sounds like small groups were not possible before annealing if you believe some people. If it's a hunting rifle that isn't shot a lot I wouldn't bother annealing. I think the most important thing is to buy a good custom barrel. Kreiger and Bartlein are very popular in short range bench rest. I have a Rem 700 BDL with a Kreiger 6BR barrel on it. With a good load and if I do my part it consistently shoots under .350" weather I anneal or not. Hard for me to believe groups really open up big just because of no annealing. You said neck tension is all over. How do you determine this? I assume you are shooting a non-competition type factory rifle since you mention shooting some factory ammo. Sounds like you are annealing with a torch. I think you can do a good job with a torch if you pay attention to details. If it’s a factory rifle or a lower cost varmint rifle I wouldn’t lay out the cash for an annealer. Try different bullets and powder.
 
I believe annealing doesnt show the accuracy benefit at short range. Thats why PPC shooters and you and Litz can't see it, even in a tunnel. But at 1000 it clearly does better. Actually it helped the scoring more then the groups. Group elevation was way better and all you had to do was hit the left and right. Matt
I have to disagree with you. I have shot in a tunnel more than almost anybody out there. Yes you can see it in short range. It’s the logistics of using it at the range when you’re shooting bench rest loading every half an hour. I do it now and others do it now with loading trailers and generators.
Yes it does work at Short range.
 
I have to disagree with you. I have shot in a tunnel more than almost anybody out there. Yes you can see it in short range. It’s the logistics of using it at the range when you’re shooting bench rest loading every half an hour. I do it now and others do it now with loading trailers and generators.
Yes it does work at Short range.


Not to hijack the thread,
Sounds like some short-range and long-range benchrest shooters see a benefit from annealing.
Does the method of annealing matter; flame, salts, induction???
CW
 
I don't think it matters how you anneal. I have done it three ways. Torch, then salt and now an induction annealer. They all got the job done for me, but the induction is the fastest and the most consistent.
 
OP, want some brass induction annealed to see if that will make a difference compared to your torch method (which I doubt it will), I'd be willing to anneal some for you.
 
OP, want some brass induction annealed to see if that will make a difference compared to your torch method (which I doubt it will), I'd be willing to anneal some for you.
Yes it does mater name how many people have sent there brass out for hardness testing before when new them after annealing. I have with 3 types of propane and with amp.
You are not doing your brass justice.
Unless you have it tested.
Try doing all of them and then give your opinion. I think it will change.
Sorry about all of you with propane units I was the same.
Like I said if you don’t have an amp don’t Anneal your brass.
 
Yes it does mater name how many people have sent there brass out for hardness testing before when new them after annealing. I have with 3 types of propane and with amp.
You are not doing your brass justice.
Unless you have it tested.
Try doing all of them and then give your opinion. I think it will change.
Sorry about all of you with propane units I was the same.
Like I said if you don’t have an amp don’t Anneal your brass.

Anneal or no anneal, how often. I think it depends on what you call adequate performance. You have to keep in mind that people on this website range from casual shooters to National Champions. Cannot hurt to anneal each firing if you want to spend the time and money for an annealer. I think you need to be able to consistently shoot small groups to see a difference. Could be exceptions?
 
Lou, so you tell me why annealing with a touch doesn't work.... what does brass mfg. use? I took old Lake City and sized it from 358 to 243 and it never cracked. This was back in the 60's... I have had a lot of success with a Bench Source and neck tension was very uniform. I can't see the difference if it is done right...... jim
 
Where did I say that I annealing with a torch doesn’t work. I said if you’re not going through the hardness testing process a before and after you have no idea what you’re doing. Your guessing. If you like what you’re doing keep doing it it’s OK there still people out there that use the Commodore or an Atari computer.
Yes brass manufacturers do do hardness testing and they can’t even get it close to duplication that’s why it’s hardness varies from lot to lot.
There are people that are trying to achieve extreme accuracy, in doing so you have to look at every single aspect . Someone might take it partway that’s OK if there’s satisfied with their results .
 

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