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How manufacturers mount scopes level?

cjmac

Silver $$ Contributor
I've mounted a bunch of scopes and always struggled to get the crosshair level. But I have a few hunting rifles that came from the factory with fairly decent scopes, and they were all mounted square and level.How do they do that?
 
I've mounted a bunch of scopes and always struggled to get the crosshair level. But I have a few hunting rifles that came from the factory with fairly decent scopes, and they were all mounted square and level.How do they do that?
You would think they almost have to use a plumb line at some distance in order to get it perfectly level.
 
You would think they almost have to use a plumb line at some distance in order to get it perfectly level.
Question is how and where would I level the rifle off of ? Scope base ? Maybe set a tiny bubble level on
A quarter inch piece of square stock lay it on the picatiny rail till the gun is level
 
Question is how and where would I level the rifle off of ? Scope base ? Maybe set a tiny bubble level on
A quarter inch piece of square stock lay it on the picatiny rail till the gun is level
I have a 1/8" X 3/4" pc. of aluminum bar stock with a level attached to one end. I balance it on the top of my rail to level the rifle on the rest and view a 30 " plumb line on my target at 100 yds. Rotate the scope til the cross hairs line up on the plumb line being careful to keep the rifle level on the rest. After zeroing the scope I move the elevation up app. 8 to 10 MOA from zero, remain holding on zero and fire couple or three shots to check for scope tilt. If the shots stay on the line or maybe just touching it then the scope is straight. If not adjustments should be made to correct for the tilt.
 
The best way is to make a scope mounting jig - a flat plate with a picatinny rail mounted and 2 bubble levels attached, 1 north-south and 1 east -west. Mine fits on a camera tripod with a ball head. Level the plate, fit the rings on the rail - then mount the scope. I use a small engineers level, usually across the top turret to level the scope to the plate. I can the sight the scope at a vertical line or plumbob. Alternatively, a 10 deg taper block can be fitted under the turret block and the opposing taper inserted to contact the flat underside of the scope. Then transfer scope and rings to the rifle. Some one piece mounts have this taper built in - i.e. Spuhr
 
The best way is to make a scope mounting jig - a flat plate with a picatinny rail mounted and 2 bubble levels attached, 1 north-south and 1 east -west. Mine fits on a camera tripod with a ball head. Level the plate, fit the rings on the rail - then mount the scope. I use a small engineers level, usually across the top turret to level the scope to the plate. I can the sight the scope at a vertical line or plumbob. Alternatively, a 10 deg taper block can be fitted under the turret block and the opposing taper inserted to contact the flat underside of the scope. Then transfer scope and rings to the rifle. Some one piece mounts have this taper built in - i.e. Spuhr
I have use this bit of kit and had good results, an easy button over hanging plumb bobs or other more elaborate procedures.
All suggested ways will work but for me this just makes life easy and I keep it in my range locker to assist others that come in to start their shooting career with their new rifle and scope.
 
I started using this a few years ago because I was looking at something that was easy to use, accurate and I owned one already for bending conduit. I haven’t used anything else since.
 

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Where u get that?
You can them from midway or most any site sponsor here. I have all these in accumulated over the years. Use them all.



 
Being a position shooter, the rifle does not stay level in each position. I adjust the scope to be level in my prone position. Consistency in each position is key, the actual level is not. And yes, the knobs will move the impact in both directions if it is not level, not a big deal if you shoot a lot.
 

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