You would think they almost have to use a plumb line at some distance in order to get it perfectly level.I've mounted a bunch of scopes and always struggled to get the crosshair level. But I have a few hunting rifles that came from the factory with fairly decent scopes, and they were all mounted square and level.How do they do that?
Question is how and where would I level the rifle off of ? Scope base ? Maybe set a tiny bubble level onYou would think they almost have to use a plumb line at some distance in order to get it perfectly level.
Where on action . This is a tikka actionI use a dewalt laser level and bubble level on action
Most all mine have a pic rail and my level attaches to it.Where on action . This is a tikka action
I have a 1/8" X 3/4" pc. of aluminum bar stock with a level attached to one end. I balance it on the top of my rail to level the rifle on the rest and view a 30 " plumb line on my target at 100 yds. Rotate the scope til the cross hairs line up on the plumb line being careful to keep the rifle level on the rest. After zeroing the scope I move the elevation up app. 8 to 10 MOA from zero, remain holding on zero and fire couple or three shots to check for scope tilt. If the shots stay on the line or maybe just touching it then the scope is straight. If not adjustments should be made to correct for the tilt.Question is how and where would I level the rifle off of ? Scope base ? Maybe set a tiny bubble level on
A quarter inch piece of square stock lay it on the picatiny rail till the gun is level
I have use this bit of kit and had good results, an easy button over hanging plumb bobs or other more elaborate procedures.The best way is to make a scope mounting jig - a flat plate with a picatinny rail mounted and 2 bubble levels attached, 1 north-south and 1 east -west. Mine fits on a camera tripod with a ball head. Level the plate, fit the rings on the rail - then mount the scope. I use a small engineers level, usually across the top turret to level the scope to the plate. I can the sight the scope at a vertical line or plumbob. Alternatively, a 10 deg taper block can be fitted under the turret block and the opposing taper inserted to contact the flat underside of the scope. Then transfer scope and rings to the rifle. Some one piece mounts have this taper built in - i.e. Spuhr
Where u get that?Most all mine have a pic rail and my level attaches to it.
You can them from midway or most any site sponsor here. I have all these in accumulated over the years. Use them all.Where u get that?
So far the best way I have found is the CTK strap level. I mount the gun in a vise, put the CTK level on, hang a plumb bob, shine a flash light through the objective of the scope and level it with the plumb bob. The flashlight projects the reticle upside down but it works great and perfect every time. Here is a link to the level. I have no affiliation with them, but it works great.Question is how and where would I level the rifle off of ? Scope base ? Maybe set a tiny bubble level on
A quarter inch piece of square stock lay it on the picatiny rail till the gun is level
I used Jo Blocks and feelers for a time but got the fixit jig to go under the scope still have to fiddle with it, but it works fastSet of feeler guages between scope bottom and base. Tweak till perfect fit.
Topstrap
When I mount scopes I use my Davidson inside action wrench. Slide it into action and use a bubble level across it. Should be as accurate as you can get. Then set scope to a plumb line. Tall target testing afterwards seems to be spot on. Hope this helps. TomsI've mounted a bunch of scopes and always struggled to get the crosshair level. But I have a few hunting rifles that came from the factory with fairly decent scopes, and they were all mounted square and level.How do they do that?
