When I was working on all types of guns I spent a fair amount of time prior to deer season, just sighting in people's rifles etc. I found that a big target at just 25 yards and another more normal sized target at 100 was the simplest and fastest way of getting on paper with 1 shot and fine tuning at 100. I simply fired one shot at the big 25 yd target, adjusted the crosshairs to that hole minus a little vertical..then went straight to 100. It was just one shot vs boresighting by eye and hoping it was on paper. So during that time of year, I kept a big 25yd target up in addition to my 100 and 200 targets. I think that's the most foolproof way of doing it but yes, eyeballing down the bore usually works. This way was virtually 100% though without any guessing. Even the collimator style boresighters would lie at times on factory rifles for numerous reasons.
How do YOU sight in your rifle?
- Thread starter Triggernosis
- Start date
I think you're on the right track. You need a different shooting setup if it's affecting you that bad.
Didn’t mean to waste your time.
CJ6
Silver $$ Contributor
Try using a folded shop towel or similar (hand towel) to add a little "padding" to your front rest. It really doesn't take much.
DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
I've not read this entire thread so there's that. I'm simply addressing the original post.
On a hunting rifle I first foul the bore. Process varies depending on the barrel but it never involves only 1 day.
Once the bore is fouled I fire a single shot off a front and rear bag. I adjust the scope to the point if impact. Then I fire a second shot. If the second shot isn't dead on then I know something is amiss and the process starts with a second rifle.
My hunting rifles are shot quite a bit before I take them hunting to begin with so these ideas may be completely foreign to others.
Anyway, that's how I zero a hunting rifle. If I'm firing more than a couple if shots that's not hunting. That's extermination on some level and that's a whole different conversion.
I don't have the luxury of shooting from rests in the field. I'm only checking the zero of the scope. After that it's up to me to know my limits and the conditions. That takes time and practice and NOT at game animals.
Once the hunting season is finished I fully clean the rifle for the next hunting season provided we're not talking about small game. Those seasons often last months so that's a different set of circumstances.
On a hunting rifle I first foul the bore. Process varies depending on the barrel but it never involves only 1 day.
Once the bore is fouled I fire a single shot off a front and rear bag. I adjust the scope to the point if impact. Then I fire a second shot. If the second shot isn't dead on then I know something is amiss and the process starts with a second rifle.
My hunting rifles are shot quite a bit before I take them hunting to begin with so these ideas may be completely foreign to others.
Anyway, that's how I zero a hunting rifle. If I'm firing more than a couple if shots that's not hunting. That's extermination on some level and that's a whole different conversion.
I don't have the luxury of shooting from rests in the field. I'm only checking the zero of the scope. After that it's up to me to know my limits and the conditions. That takes time and practice and NOT at game animals.
Once the hunting season is finished I fully clean the rifle for the next hunting season provided we're not talking about small game. Those seasons often last months so that's a different set of circumstances.
Last edited:
FNSafari
Gold $$ Contributor
Easier for me to just put the x hair on the bull hold the rifle steady and dial the scope to the bullet hole. Then the scope and bore are aligned.
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
I'm not getting this.
Say I have the x hair on the bull and take my first shot. The shot is 1 MOA to the right. Means I need to put 1 MOA 'left' on the scope.
If I taken that first shot, then put the x hair on the bull and dialed the scope so the x hair was on the bullet hole, I would have put 1 MOA 'right' on the scope - the opposite of what's need to zero it - yes?
Riesel
Gold $$ Contributor
You say tomato, I say tomata
When you move the reticle per the turret markings, the retical physically moves the opposite direction.
For a site full of shooters, this just shouldn't be so hard. Get out this weekend and just try it. I think it's just one of those things that is much easier to see and do than to explain in print. Stop thinking and just do it...like Nike! Lol!
You actually have to dial opposite of what you see to get the reticle to move to the impact. Trust me, it works. Even at 600 and 1k
I can't figure out how this works - This is how I look at it...
I aim/crosshair at the center bull and fire. My shot goes right 1" and high 1".
If I aim at the bull again and fire a 2nd & 3rd shot - I would expect my shots to group about 1" right and 1" high... To me, each time I aim at the center bull with crosshairs, my barrel is pointed about 1" right and 1" high of where I am aiming...
OK, I put the crosshair on the hole I just shot. If I don't make any adjustments (yet) and aim at the bullet hole, my barrel is now pointed 1" right and 1" high of the aim point (which is my bullet hole). Now my barrel is pointed 2" right and 2" high of the initial center bull.
Keeping the rifle steady with crosshair on bullet hole...I'm going to click the elevation/windage, so the crosshair moves down and back onto the bull... My barrel is still pointed 2" right and 2" high...since the rifle has not moved.
If I take a shot now with the crosshair clicked back onto the center bull - my barrel is still pointed 2" right and 2" high...and I would expect my shot to end up further away (than initial shot):
that's what I get too (further away)....
Straightshooter1
Gold $$ Contributor
This is the technique I use all the time, except when making the adjustment, I'm moving the crosshairs from the bull (POA) to the bullet hole (POI, or group center), and and this works very, very well taking only a few shots (3 to 5) to get it right on. And I do this with a front and rear bag shooting at 100 yds. . . or 50 yds if I happen to not get the first shot onto my large sheet of white paper with a single dot in the middle.
Last edited:
lawman29
Gold $$ Contributor
Different technique for our lightweight hunting guns versus a comp rifle off a rest on the bench. You need to grab ahold of it with both hands, tucked in firm. The trick is applying the same firm pressure for each shot.
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
Exactly.
Murray Brook
Silver $$ Contributor
@newbieshooter
In your 2'nd photo do not put the x hair on the bullet hole, put it on the bull and adjust the scope x hair to the bullet hole.
In your 2'nd photo do not put the x hair on the bullet hole, put it on the bull and adjust the scope x hair to the bullet hole.
I agree - I put the crosshair on the POA (bull) and adjust the scope crosshair to the bullet hole.
I'm following the steps outlined by M-61 - trying to show that I don't understand how his steps can work - following his step-by-step.
Last edited:
FNSafari
Gold $$ Contributor
Put he x hair on your original aim point, 1 MOA left will move the reticle to the right where the bullet hole is and where you want the x hair to be, coinciding with the bullet hole.
dthomas
Gold $$ Contributor
It has already been said here but when you dial your turret up your reticle moves down and the same for your windage. It is very simple but some get it backwards. Now at the range it is easy to have a brain fart and do it backwards until you really understand what is happening inside the scope.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.