DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
Exactly. This is the detail he is missing.
How do YOU sight in your rifle?
- Thread starter Triggernosis
- Start date
I just shoot at an X adjust the scope using the up/down Left/right adjustment to hit where I won’t it to. It’s not that complicated
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
Ah, ha!
Thanks to you and newbieshooter for explaining.
As there may be at least, maybe more, confused about this move crosshair to bullet hole, or move crosshair to bullseye thing, and most likely @Triggernosis is gritting his teeth over how far the thread has drifted, why not lets get confused even more!
"When you move the reticle per the turret markings, the retical physically moves the opposite direction."
The reticle doesn't physically move. For example, when we turn the little knobby thing on the top to adjust elevation, it moves glass inside the tube, typically referred to as the 'erecter' and that bends light and we then see the reticle in a different position. Without the erecter lens (glass or glasses) the deer would appear upside down, so the erecter lens erects that deer to be standing on it's hoofs rather than antlers! The erecter is mounted inside a tube that is inside the main tube (the tube we clamp those little ringy things (gunsmithing technical term)) around. When the elevation or windage knobby things are turned they actually are moving one end of the erecter tube, which causes the erecter lens to bend the light (we see the light as a deer) so the image of the target and the image of the reticle are moved in relationship to each other. OK, it's a simplification, but the whole system is rather simplistic now that some optical design genius (not me I'm still stuck on that knobby thingy) figured it out for us!
"When you move the reticle per the turret markings, the retical physically moves the opposite direction."
The reticle doesn't physically move. For example, when we turn the little knobby thing on the top to adjust elevation, it moves glass inside the tube, typically referred to as the 'erecter' and that bends light and we then see the reticle in a different position. Without the erecter lens (glass or glasses) the deer would appear upside down, so the erecter lens erects that deer to be standing on it's hoofs rather than antlers! The erecter is mounted inside a tube that is inside the main tube (the tube we clamp those little ringy things (gunsmithing technical term)) around. When the elevation or windage knobby things are turned they actually are moving one end of the erecter tube, which causes the erecter lens to bend the light (we see the light as a deer) so the image of the target and the image of the reticle are moved in relationship to each other. OK, it's a simplification, but the whole system is rather simplistic now that some optical design genius (not me I'm still stuck on that knobby thingy) figured it out for us!
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Heck, let's run with it! Maybe someone will learn something.
Bore sight to get on paper, fire 3 rounds at the same point of aim. Find mid-point of 3 shot group and measure your elevation and windage distance from that point to point of aim. Adjust scope accordingly and fine tune from there. It rarely takes more than 5 shots if you have a good rest and your scope adjustments are accurate. This all assumes the rifle is not a problem and the operator can shoot. I don’t know how many rifles I’ve signed in at the range after someone shoots up a couple boxes of ammo and I get a refresher course on cuss words. I wait until I see terminal frustration on the other bench before I saunter over and ask how it’s going. Really not that hard. I pay no attention to different shooting positions, that’s operator training. I want to know exactly where the danged thing shoots compared to point of aim. If I miss, regardless of shooting position, I know that’s on me, not the scope/sight adjustment.
No
Aim at bull
Fire
Aim at bullet hole and turn you're cross hairs to the bull
Now it’s time go for you to fire 2nd shot.
Your adjustment method is correct, but your movement is in reverse.
If you hit 1 inch high, without looking through the scope, you simply need to turn the elevation turret in the down direction to equal 1 inch.
If you look through the scope, with the reticle aligned on the bullet hole and adjust the reticle to the bullseye, you will need to turn the turret in the up direction. The reticle moves in the opposite direction of the turret. The gun will then shoot where you made the adjustment, higher up by twice as much!
The correct movement is to align the reticle on the bullseye and adjust the turret to align the reticle on the bullet hole and this only happens if we turn the elevation turret in the down direction. The turret moves the reticle in the opposite direction which is up and the next bullet impact will then move down.
The reticle movement is counterintuitive. I relate scope adjustment to iron sights. The actual alignment of the reticle would represent the front post and the turret movement would represent the rear notch. To move impact down we would move the rear notch down or move the front post up.
Good morning
I should not have posted this.
It is confusing and too hard to write without leaving something out.
When I said turn the reticle to the bull I should have said and pay no attention to the up- down arrows nor the left - right arrows.
Just turn the turrets to move the crosshairs to the bull.
And in addition the OP who is some kind of high level shooter, I guess was not even actually asking.
So much easier not to reply at all.
6 actual out. (LOL)
I should not have posted this.
It is confusing and too hard to write without leaving something out.
When I said turn the reticle to the bull I should have said and pay no attention to the up- down arrows nor the left - right arrows.
Just turn the turrets to move the crosshairs to the bull.
And in addition the OP who is some kind of high level shooter, I guess was not even actually asking.
So much easier not to reply at all.
6 actual out. (LOL)
Chuck, it's not that you left out which direction to turn the turrets, it's that you are going from the bullet to the bullseye, when it's correct to go from the bullseye to the bullet when making the adjustment.
@Triggernosis has stated he is good with the topic drift. And, I'm as guilty as any for that!!
On iron sights I have always remembered the “Fors” phrase, front opposite-rear same in direction you want impact to go.
Texas Solo
B.S. High Master
I bore sight at home. That's enough to get on paper at 100yds. Using a front rest and rear bag, I fire 1 round. Then, holding the rifle on the X again, I adjust the scope to intersect the hole from 1st shot. Fire a 2nd shot to confirm. You're now zeroed with 2 shots.
It is amazing that 75.6% of the respondents are saying to do the same thing to sight in a rifle. It's as if they never read the previous posters suggestions.
As for myself, I have taken the recommendations of a couple of respondents and have ordered a new Caldwell front bag that should help with my forearm jumping.
As for myself, I have taken the recommendations of a couple of respondents and have ordered a new Caldwell front bag that should help with my forearm jumping.
Well, factor in what you paid for it and move on. Sounds like you've got it figured out to me.
DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
Hand on forend. Place it on top of any available support. Replicate hunting
DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
For hunting rifles I know some place a hand on the scope to prevent fore end jump. It doesn't have to shoot small groups to harvest a game animal. Just an impact a reasonable distance from the point of aim repeatedly will get the job done. You won't be hauling your rest around hunting anyway.
Never had a gun jump. Is the rifle high enough so it's level? Not tilted up or down.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
50 yards to get it on paper. Once there, move out to 100 yards. When there, work on your load. Tweek till happy. 
5-7 rounds, if the gun is worth having. I use 25 yards for the very first shot. Adjust the crosshairs to it and fine tune at 100 or so.50 yards to get it on paper. Once there, move out to 100 yards. When there, work on your load. Tweek till happy.
Everything depends on equipment, Had a neighbor bring me his 30-30 to sight in recently. First shot...about 8-10 inches low and left AT 25.
Adjusted for that and went to 100. Horizontal didn't feel right.
Fire a shot and it's close....think I'm done.
Then he tells me it got knocked over(with see thru rings)
Adjust a bit...fire another shot. 6-8" the other way.
Fire another to see if it prints close to last. Nope....That's it! He brought me 4 shells! I didn't know! Didn't matter either. Probably wanted me to sight it in for a coyote at 1000 yards anyway. Lol!
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