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How do you keep your benchrest from jumping around on the bench?

urbanrifleman said:
Mine is a cordura Edgewood 3". I tell you the truth my new Protektor Dr. Bag has the new super slick silver ears and man that stuff is awesome.
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A shot of aerosol deodorant on the bag from time to time works wonders. Goes on dry, doesn't get sticky, and is inexpensive.
 
Used dryer sheets work really well.
Give your stock a silicon treatment
(Spray can) that dries.
Put dryer sheets on both bags,slick!!
Works on a 32 lbs gun.
This one is only19.
 

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There are specialty screw/bolt stores around that have odd screws and bolts not sold in regular hardware stores. Enter "Specialty Screw Stores" in your search engine and see what pops up. If you can't find anything, PM me with specific info on length, head, threads etc as there is such a store near me and I can try and get what you need. I've gotten all sorts of unusual bolts and screws (for my shooting needs) over the years there and they are relatively inexpensive. Gave up a long time ago trying to find special bolts/screws in regular Hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot.

Alex
 
Clamp a 1/2 " piece of plywood to the top of the bench. It only has to be slightly larger than your front rest. If your leveling points are sharp, with a small hammer tap the top of the leveling screws and make indentations(1/4") into the plywood. This will hold your front rest in place. + powder on the front rest so the forearm slides freely in the rest.
 
If the concrete top is painted - it can cause problems. Use superfeet -wipe the concrete top with a cloth and dampen the rubber feet. Something is wrong with your bag shape,side tension, weight, or fill because I can shoot a 300 RUM hunting rifle off a Bald Eagle Aluminum tri-pod rest without the rest moving.
 
brians356 said:
Interest piqued. For example, for an ubiquitous H-S Precision on Cordura bags.
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Shift the interface. Buy a half yard or so of satin, in a suitably masculine color, and cut it into two rectangles that are about twice as long as wide, one for the front bag, one for the back, in the areas where the stock contacts the bags, oversized so you won't have to keep fussing with it. If you fold each piece in half to make a square that will improve things, but the real trick is to cut each into separate squares and rotate one of each pair 90 degrees before placing it on the other. It seems that as shiny and slick as the fabric is that under close examination it has small ribs that tend to interlock slightly when you do the fold over but which do not when one piece is rotated. In that configuration they slide against each other quite nicely. Friends have custom hunting rifles that have fiberglass stocks that have finishes that feel like 80 grit sandpaper, to make them easier to hang on to in the wet. This method fixes that problem entirely. The cloth does not need to slide on the stock, or for that matter the bag at all. I got the idea and did a little more with it from observing some material on Lou Murdica's rear bag at a benchrest match. Lou knows a thing or two about a thing or two.
 
restsale1401.jpg



Papa Charlie, these are the knobs he's asking about. The two large ones that lock the capstan wheel and the vertical pedestal.

I don't have a clue what Arthtitis screws are!
 
Eddie Harren said:
restsale1401.jpg



Papa Charlie, these are the knobs he's asking about. The two large ones that lock the capstan wheel and the vertical pedestal.

I don't have a clue what Arthtitis screws are!
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McMaster Carr also sells the knobs and he can attach any length shaft that is required. A little searching in the MC catalog on line and you might be surprised as to what you can find. Something you have to re-purpose a bit but in most cases no one would know.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-component-knobs/=1aj2acm
 
BoydAllen said:
Shift the interface. Buy a half yard or so of satin, in a suitably masculine color, and cut it into two rectangles that are about twice as long as wide, one for the front bag, one for the back, in the areas where the stock contacts the bags, oversized so you won't have to keep fussing with it. If you fold each piece in half to make a square that will improve things, but the real trick is to cut each into separate squares and rotate one of each pair 90 degrees before placing it on the other. It seems that as shiny and slick as the fabric is that under close examination it has small ribs that tend to interlock slightly when you do the fold over but which do not when one piece is rotated. In that configuration they slide against each other quite nicely. Friends have custom hunting rifles that have fiberglass stocks that have finishes that feel like 80 grit sandpaper, to make them easier to hang on to in the wet. This method fixes that problem entirely. The cloth does not need to slide on the stock, or for that matter the bag at all. I got the idea and did a little more with it from observing some material on Lou Murdica's rear bag at a benchrest match. Lou knows a thing or two about a thing or two.
Click to expand...
Clever. So the two squares of satin slide against each other. After recoil, when you shove the rifle forward, back into battery, the squares are also back into their starting positions?
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brians356 said:
Clever. So the two squares of satin slide against each other. After recoil, when you shove the rifle forward, back into battery, the squares are also back into their starting positions?
-
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Pretty much. I tend to use this with hunting and varmint rifles that I shoulder and hold. My bench rifles get stock tape or are slick enough to work without. If you try this, I suggest that you look over the details of my post.
 
Our club was lucky enough to have a carpet/furniture store owner as a member and shooter. He installed glue down carpet on our concrete bench tops and formed around the sides. The pointed level pins do not move.
 
Papa Charlie said:
McMaster Carr also sells the knobs and he can attach any length shaft that is required. A little searching in the MC catalog on line and you might be surprised as to what you can find. Something you have to re-purpose a bit but in most cases no one would know.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-component-knobs/=1aj2acm
Click to expand...

I checked that link out. The knobs, that are being discussed in this thread, are not shown at MC. The knobs he's referring to are the 2 that are on the screws that tighten on the center post and the capstan wheel.
 
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