how do you clean your chambers?
- Thread starter rockwind1
- Start date
I use the Sinclair chamber/lug cleaning kit. Consists of two short rods...on threaded for brushes/mops and one with a cross slot for felt or cotton swabs to clean the lug face/recess. I use a bronze brush to short stroke the freebore and remove carbon from there and the end of the chamber neck. I then wrap a patch around the brush to wipe clean the end of the chamber (after all bore cleaning is done) followed by a chamber mop. I wet those with a little brake-clean.
Robin
Robin
farmerjohn
Gold $$ Contributor
Just what Robin says, you can also buy a few different shot gun bore mops, 12.20.& .410 and use the appropriate size according to the caliber of your rifle. 30 Cal bore mop on the same short rod will clean the neck and free bore well....
John
John
Raythemanroe
Bullet Whisperer
I have a bore brush and a use PMA Tool bore swab.
Ray
Ray
D-4297
Gold $$ Contributor
I clean my chamber twice as often as I clean the barrel . I use a .357 Blue brush , on a slow drill to scrub the neck , using Bore-Tech C-4 . Let it soak for ten min or so , then repeat the scrubbing . Wet patch on a loop to wet mop the neck , and dry patches to finish the neck area . Then a standard nylon chamber brush with C-4 , followed by dry patch wrapped around the chamber brush . Repeat till clean patch . Lug area is done with the Sinclair Lug tool , first with the rectangular felt "scrubber" , soaked with Eliminator , then the "Round" . I've even followed up putting a patch on the round , to work into the corners of the Lug recesses . Finally , I run a dry patch down the pipe to insure no junk gets left in there . Barrel gets cleaned every 150 - 200 rounds , or as needed . Depending on the load being used .
Above all else , I make absolutely certain , the chamber and barrel are dry when finished up . Moisture and rust aren't a major issue in the dessert , so we get away with "Dry" .
Above all else , I make absolutely certain , the chamber and barrel are dry when finished up . Moisture and rust aren't a major issue in the dessert , so we get away with "Dry" .
RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
I use a chamber brush on a dedicated short rod/handle and use whatever I am using on the bbl like whatever your favorite carbon remover is, and then I spray lots of CLP to flush it all down and push with patches till I remove everything I can find, or see with the borescope.
When I think I am done with the rifling and chamber, I run the chamber brush with a layer of clean white paper towel over the brush.
I give it a few twists to see if all the previous cleaning has left any residues in the neck or chamber area. It is easy to see on white paper towel if there is any gunk or excess lubricant or cleaning fluid.
It is easy to miss something while going back and forth from cleaning the chamber to cleaning the bore with a bore guide. The gaps between the bore guide and the bbl accumulate solvent and gunk, so it is normal to find the chamber is once again dirty and have to follow up. I forgot to mention I start with the chamber and neck before I work on the bbl.
The main job of that chamber brush is that body-shoulder-neck junction. It seems like you can get the body and shoulder easy enough with most brushes, but getting a brush that hits the neck at the same time is a matter of reworking these brushes yourself.
When I think I am done with the rifling and chamber, I run the chamber brush with a layer of clean white paper towel over the brush.
I give it a few twists to see if all the previous cleaning has left any residues in the neck or chamber area. It is easy to see on white paper towel if there is any gunk or excess lubricant or cleaning fluid.
It is easy to miss something while going back and forth from cleaning the chamber to cleaning the bore with a bore guide. The gaps between the bore guide and the bbl accumulate solvent and gunk, so it is normal to find the chamber is once again dirty and have to follow up. I forgot to mention I start with the chamber and neck before I work on the bbl.
The main job of that chamber brush is that body-shoulder-neck junction. It seems like you can get the body and shoulder easy enough with most brushes, but getting a brush that hits the neck at the same time is a matter of reworking these brushes yourself.
I use a nylon pistol brush with patch wrapped around. A few drops of alcohol, twist in chamber and done. Works great and very simple. 
Paul
Paul
I use a bore guide to clean the bore, but there's always a bit of solvent left in the chamber that I can see with my endoscope camera. BTW: Very handy tool, I own three now. Very inexpensive.
I screw a chamber brush on a short section of cleaning rod, chuck it in a drill and spin it in the chamber. Get's the chamber, neck and throat very clean, again as seen with my camera. Then swab it with an oversized bore mop, a little blast of compressed air gets all the bits of cotton out and recheck with the camera. No guess work.
I'd recommend that with whatever process you use, if you're not checking it visually with a camera, or bore scope, you really cannot know with any certainty how effective your cleaning process is. JMOP.
I screw a chamber brush on a short section of cleaning rod, chuck it in a drill and spin it in the chamber. Get's the chamber, neck and throat very clean, again as seen with my camera. Then swab it with an oversized bore mop, a little blast of compressed air gets all the bits of cotton out and recheck with the camera. No guess work.
I'd recommend that with whatever process you use, if you're not checking it visually with a camera, or bore scope, you really cannot know with any certainty how effective your cleaning process is. JMOP.
The older I get, the lazier (more efficient? 
) I seem to get.
Directly after firing the last shot at the range - pull through a bore-snake twice that has a bit of Balistol on the wire brush part - bore and chamber comes out clean as a whistle. Every once in a while, I'll pull through a bush and patch ( Otis cleaning set I got on Amazon - nylon coated cable that is pulled through instead of a rod - so everything is nice and compact), and then I would finish off with some chamber mops. Particular set came with what seems to be a specialty brush for the chamber and neck for 30 cals- short stubby brush with a thinner brush protruding from center - seems to work well.
) I seem to get.Directly after firing the last shot at the range - pull through a bore-snake twice that has a bit of Balistol on the wire brush part - bore and chamber comes out clean as a whistle. Every once in a while, I'll pull through a bush and patch ( Otis cleaning set I got on Amazon - nylon coated cable that is pulled through instead of a rod - so everything is nice and compact), and then I would finish off with some chamber mops. Particular set came with what seems to be a specialty brush for the chamber and neck for 30 cals- short stubby brush with a thinner brush protruding from center - seems to work well.
I started shooting a 6 BRA and coincidentally started using Imperial Sizing Die Wax at the same time. I quickly learned the importance of a clean chamber to avoid false pressure signs. I simply use a chamber mop with alcohol on it and follow it up with a clean, dry chamber mop.
i've been hearing a lot about chamber brushes in this thread, are there chamber brushes specifically made for chambers, like in this case a 6.5 saum, or even a 7 saum, or even a 6.5 creedmoor? i've done some searching but can't find any. are these chamber brushes actually just bore brushes?
i have a nice chamber brush specifically made for my 223 ar chamber. works good, i spin it up on a rod.
wish i could find something liek that for precision rifles.
i have a nice chamber brush specifically made for my 223 ar chamber. works good, i spin it up on a rod.
wish i could find something liek that for precision rifles.
The older I get, the lazier (more efficient?
Directly after firing the last shot at the range - pull through a bore-snake twice that has a bit of Balistol on the wire brush part - bore and chamber comes out clean as a whistle. Every once in a while, I'll pull through a bush and patch ( Otis cleaning set I got on Amazon - nylon coated cable that is pulled through instead of a rod - so everything is nice and compact), and then I would finish off with some chamber mops. Particular set came with what seems to be a specialty brush for the chamber and neck for 30 cals- short stubby brush with a thinner brush protruding from center - seems to work well.
that specialty brush would be nice to have for other chambers, i am having a hard time locating.
On a bolt gun the only need for a true brushing of the chamber is at the end of the neck region where hard carbon deposits build up (just before the beginning of the bore where the case neck ends). The rest can be wiped out with a mop, patches wrapped around a larger brush, paper towels on a brush or jag etc.. In order to remove the stubborn carbon at the end of the neck area a stiff brush size slightly over the neck diameter and a carbon cleaner and patience is needed. If you are short on patience, like myself, a bronze brush works really quickly. I always keep several overbore bronze brushes for this purpose and discard them regularly as they will distort and become less effective eventually.
Robin
Robin
Shotgun type bore mop is great for making sure you get all cleaning solvent and oil out of your chamber after cleaning. Even a slight trace of oil in the chamber will keep the fired brass from adhering to the walls of chamber and give you some pretty scary pressure signs on your brass even with a safe charge.
For chamber cleaning i use this
http://www.pmatool.com/pma-action-cleaning-tool-kit/
For chamber cleaning i use this
http://www.pmatool.com/pma-action-cleaning-tool-kit/
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