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How can I size more of my neck with a bushing type die.

I have a Redding Competition bushing neck sizing die that for some reason leaves a lot more of the neck unsized than I would like. Even with the Micrometer screwed down tight when the press ram and shell holder are fully raised, I have about 1/8" unsized. At times I'd like to size the neck right down to the same level as what I get when using a one-piece die but don't like the extra working of the case by first over-sizing then expanding.


Because I use different bushings for different rifles I'd like to be able to stick with a bushing die.

Anyone make on that doesn't leave this rather large "collar". I may be out in left field but the Redding Bushings seem to have a large chamfer on them and it appears that this may be a good part of the issue (at least in my mind).

Some ideas or recommendations would be appreciated.
 
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If the heel/pressure ring isn't being seated past the unsized portion, no need to size all the way down.
 
ridgeway said:
If the heel/pressure ring isn't being seated past the unsized portion, no need to size all the way down.
True
Also a lot of guys spec the chamber to ensure this doesn't happen. A lot of people myself included. Think the small portion unsized helps to align the neck in the chamber. Others may have different experiences I'm sure
 
Tim Singleton said:
ridgeway said:
If the heel/pressure ring isn't being seated past the unsized portion, no need to size all the way down.
True
Also a lot of guys spec the chamber to ensure this doesn't happen. A lot of people myself included. Think the small portion unsized helps to align the neck in the chamber. Others may have different experiences I'm sure

Yep, agreed. Another option, in some cases, is to lengthen the freebore to pull it up out of the unsized portion.
 
Tim Singleton said:
ridgeway said:
If the heel/pressure ring isn't being seated past the unsized portion, no need to size all the way down.
True
Also a lot of guys spec the chamber to ensure this doesn't happen. A lot of people myself included. Think the small portion unsized helps to align the neck in the chamber. Others may have different experiences I'm sure

I used to think this was a good idea as well, until someone on here mentioned the small amount of clearance between the bullet shank and the freebore. (In the case of my 6.5L, .0006") Now I am not so sure whether it does help alignment much.
 
Don't screw the micrometer all the way down tight...bushings are by design supposed to "float". If tight they can size a neck really off. I purposely leave a small unsized portion of the neck for the mentioned reason.
 
lpreddick said:
Don't screw the micrometer all the way down tight...bushings are by design supposed to "float". If tight they can size a neck really off. I purposely leave a small unsized portion of the neck for the mentioned reason.
Absolutely agree. Let it float
 
lpreddick said:
Don't screw the micrometer all the way down tight...bushings are by design supposed to "float". If tight they can size a neck really off. I purposely leave a small unsized portion of the neck for the mentioned reason.

In a Redding Competition die the bushing is nice and snug within the sliding "chamber". It's a neck sizing die that's built along the lines of the Bonanza/Forster seating dies where the case is tightly held in a "chamber" and the bushing is also snug so there is less chance of misalignment. My die produces cases that show .001" or less TIR, It just bugs me that I can't reduce this unsized area. It's more than I want.
 
I had a RCBS neck sizer for my .221 Fireball. Only getting partial neck resize. Sent it back and RCBS modified it to full length size the neck. 8)
 
Hahaha...."let it float"... Why does tim curry and IT the clown come to mind?


But on a serious note, Neil jones sizing die is unique! When I get home I'll post a diagram as it's lacking on his site
 
My Redding full length die will only resize 2/3 of the neck but the competition bushing neck die will get the neck all the way to the shoulder. I can even get it to push on the shoulder, if I turn it too far. This is in 6.5x284
 
Size neck only halfway, IF loading for a bolt gun...

Might want to consider only trimming your brass once it is so long that it impedes bolt closure... That will give you more neck to work with...
Do you even KNOW how much neck your chamber will allow?


Might consider your chamber dynamics. If a factory chamber, likely isn't even concentric. Keeping neck rear half at fired dimension means bullet orientation remains same for subsequent rounds loaded & fired.

For $7 or whatever a shellholder costs, you can chuck one in a vise and reduce the height with a file or diamond hone. Yes, you want it ground flat, ideally; but can likely take .005 or .010 off the top and not compromise the shellholder. Just be sure to always lube your brass well before using your ground-down sh. Maybe do your sizing first with standard sh, and then run brass through again with the ground one...

Truthfully, you want long neck, not fully sized neck. Manual listed trim parameters are just suggestions. If loading for only one rifle you are better off trimming only minimally.
 
How the heck is shortening the shell holder going to help lengthen the neck WITHOUT shortening the case excessively (i.e. create excessive head space)? Perhaps I can learn something new here? dedogs
 
dedogs said:
How the heck is shortening the shell holder going to help lengthen the neck WITHOUT shortening the case excessively (i.e. create excessive head space)? Perhaps I can learn something new here? dedogs

Lol...it's not. Not sure I understand either. :)
 
Wow. That's a great tip about filing the shell holder down. :o
 
Dos XX said:
Wow. That's a great tip about filing the shell holder down. :o
In certain applications, its a viable solution. For the OP issue, not so. I turn mine square on a lathe. In my application, it allows me to size closer to the case web with my ring die.
 

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