How can I size more of my neck with a bushing type die.

[fguffey]

Even with the Micrometer screwed down tight when the press ram and shell holder are fully raised, I have about 1/8" unsized.

Read the instructions, if I was not warned the die would not neck size all of the neck I would ask for my money back. If it is necessary to purchase another die to size the neck I would need recommendation, I have neck sizing dies, my neck sizing dies do not have case body support, the nice part about my neck sizing dies, they have threads. Threads make it possible to adjust the amount of neck sizing I want, and if I decide to go into bushing die sizing I can use the bushing die without the bushing then finish with a neck sizing die.

F. Guffey

 

[bigedp51]

amlevin

I read your post right after you posted and tried to find a web page that talked about this partial sizing of the neck that I read recently. I kept looking but did not find it, but what it said was some people feel the unsized portion of helps center the neck in the chamber and gives better bullet alignment with the bore. (and others dislike it)

My Forster bushing die does the same thing no matter how you put the bushing in the die. So I asked myself what is this going to hurt in a off the shelf factory rifle with the neck helping center the case.

Below you have room for the "fat" unsized part of the neck why not use it. My 2 cents

I also read somewhere to not worry about the things you have no control over. It just makes you grumpy.

So sit back and relax and enjoy neck sizing as much as Saddam Hussein cat did.

Where is CatShooter, the world wonders!

 

[jlow]

Must say that it bothered me when I first came across this but then I wonder if it was by design? The idea is if the bottom of the neck where it meets the shoulder is kept blown out and not sized, any donuts that forms in the same place would not be able to interact with the bullet. Seems like a smart idea to me... 8)

 

[amlevin]

Must say that it bothered me when I first came across this but then I wonder if it was by design? The idea is if the bottom of the neck where it meets the shoulder is kept blown out and not sized, any donuts that forms in the same place would not be able to interact with the bullet. Seems like a smart idea to me... 8)

Yes, the blown out part of the neck that is not sized does have it's advantages. Unfortunately, when I fire-form brand new brass and then want to turn the necks it's difficult to do so. Since I don't have to turn my necks just to get the brass to fit the chamber when new I prefer to "true up neck thickness" after it's first firing. I'd rather be able to size all the way to the shoulder if I want to and then also be able to back off on the micrometer adjustment the amount I want rather than being stuck with an arbitrary amount that's apparently pre-set at the factory as a maximum amount I can size.

 

[amlevin]

My Redding full length die will only resize 2/3 of the neck but the competition bushing neck die will get the neck all the way to the shoulder. I can even get it to push on the shoulder, if I turn it too far. This is in 6.5x284

With my Redding dies in .223 it's just the opposite. In order to get a full length size on the neck I have to also full length size the case body. So much for just "neck sizing only".

 

[jlow]

Must say that it bothered me when I first came across this but then I wonder if it was by design? The idea is if the bottom of the neck where it meets the shoulder is kept blown out and not sized, any donuts that forms in the same place would not be able to interact with the bullet. Seems like a smart idea to me... 8)

Yes, the blown out part of the neck that is not sized does have it's advantages. Unfortunately, when I fire-form brand new brass and then want to turn the necks it's difficult to do so. Since I don't have to turn my necks just to get the brass to fit the chamber when new I prefer to "true up neck thickness" after it's first firing. I'd rather be able to size all the way to the shoulder if I want to and then also be able to back off on the micrometer adjustment the amount I want rather than being stuck with an arbitrary amount that's apparently pre-set at the factory as a maximum amount I can size.

I understand what you are facing as I have completely been there.

What I found initially is if I want to neck turn fire formed brass, I use a regular FL sizer and not a bushing die. The bad news is of course most FL sizer significantly undersize the neck and I have to use the ball to push it back out. A better option is to use a LCD. In the end, even though I taught myself to neck turn and was very good at it, I realize what most people told me about factory chamber and neck turning is correct i.e. it is a waste of time and worse still a time burner when it comes to brass prep.

The way to go is to pay upfront, start with Lapua and the neck thickness variation is such that I don’t need to neck turn to get sub ½ MOA groups. My decision would likely be different if I was shooting BR, but I don’t shoot BR.

 

[bigedp51]

amlevin

Have you thought about playing "Whack a Mole" and venting your frustrations with a hammer? ;D

My Forster die does the same thing as your die, so for neck turning I use a standard RCBS neck sizing die to size all of the neck. Besides 95% of the time I full length resize anyway.

"The cartridge should fit the chamber like a rat turd in a violin case".
Jim Hull Sierra Ballistic testing Lab
And a world-class long range shooter

 

[jo191145]

Must say that it bothered me when I first came across this but then I wonder if it was by design? The idea is if the bottom of the neck where it meets the shoulder is kept blown out and not sized, any donuts that forms in the same place would not be able to interact with the bullet. Seems like a smart idea to me... 8)

Yes, the blown out part of the neck that is not sized does have it's advantages. Unfortunately, when I fire-form brand new brass and then want to turn the necks it's difficult to do so. Since I don't have to turn my necks just to get the brass to fit the chamber when new I prefer to "true up neck thickness" after it's first firing. I'd rather be able to size all the way to the shoulder if I want to and then also be able to back off on the micrometer adjustment the amount I want rather than being stuck with an arbitrary amount that's apparently pre-set at the factory as a maximum amount I can size.

I've been out of the game for awhile. If your using any die to size your neck you'd be best served also,using an expander mandrel before turning. Otherwise all the imperfections are on the inside of the case. Yes you'll be able to turn some of it off but it's a better job getting the imperfections outside.

I agree with jlow. The best result is always by simply buying quality brass. You can turn all the brass variations off the neck but those variations continue through the shoulder and into the body also. Upon ignition that brass will expand like a banana. IMO you just can't fix bad brass.

 

[txnintn]

FYI, I use a CH bushing neck sizing die. Their bushings are .400" long as opposed to everyone elses .350" long bushings, plus the bottom is cut 30 degree to mate to a very popular shoulder angle.

Txnintn