Home built 8.6 Blackout sizing die 30-06 or 308 to 8.6 no lube.

[Ray123]

Yeah, I know, not a fan of hype but orderd a barrel and factory dies for 8.6 Blackout, as a challenge.
Waiting for the arrival of the real factory items...I decided to build my own roughing size die...just above factory specs so the factory die will finish the case. While tinkering around in the shop on the die project, as retired guys do...came up with an idea... So I tried it slowly at first improving as I went. The result is I can size a 30-06 down to 8.6 Blackout with no lube, no shoulder dents, no annealing... the 308 win is really easy no lube. Part off in lathe, deburr and a 338 bullet has a slight interference fit. When the factory die arrives I'll Lube and run the case through factory die. But the case wall appears to thick and some metal should be removed from the 308 Lapua and LC case necks .
Just tried a piece of Winchester 308 commercial barss...what a difference. When rough sized deburred, a .338 bullet falls through the neck and a .358 bullet sticks at the beginning of case mouth, appearing to be made for a .358 Blackout...So you may get by without removing metal from the neck if you use Winchester 308 brass...Have to see when the factory barrel and dies arrive. I can skim neck turn fast in a lathe if needed, and bore the ID...cause I don't have any Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass...except Lapua and I ain't using it in this lead slinger...it'd be to thick anyway.

 

[Ascinder]

Yeah, I know, not a fan of hype but orderd a barrel and factory dies for 8.6 Blackout, as a challenge.
Waiting for the arrival of the real factory items...I decided to build my own roughing size die...just above factory specs so the factory die will finish the case. While tinkering around in the shop on the die project, as retired guys do...came up with an idea... So I tried it slowly at first improving as I went. The result is I can size a 30-06 down to 8.6 Blackout with no lube, no shoulder dents, no annealing... the 308 win is really easy no lube. Part off in lathe, deburr and a 338 bullet has a slight interference fit. When the factory die arrives I'll Lube and run the case through factory die. But the case wall appears to thick and some metal should be removed from the 308 Lapua and LC case necks .
Just tried a piece of Winchester 308 commercial barss...what a difference. When rough sized deburred, a .338 bullet falls through the neck and a .358 bullet sticks at the beginning of case mouth, appearing to be made for a .358 Blackout...So you may get by without removing metal from the neck if you use Winchester 308 brass...Have to see when the factory barrel and dies arrive. I can skim neck turn fast in a lathe if needed, and bore the ID...cause I don't have any Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass...except Lapua and I ain't using it in this lead slinger...it'd be to thick anyway.

Yeah, I know, not a fan of hype but orderd a barrel and factory dies for 8.6 Blackout, as a challenge.
Waiting for the arrival of the real factory items...I decided to build my own roughing size die...just above factory specs so the factory die will finish the case. While tinkering around in the shop on the die project, as retired guys do...came up with an idea... So I tried it slowly at first improving as I went. The result is I can size a 30-06 down to 8.6 Blackout with no lube, no shoulder dents, no annealing... the 308 win is really easy no lube. Part off in lathe, deburr and a 338 bullet has a slight interference fit. When the factory die arrives I'll Lube and run the case through factory die. But the case wall appears to thick and some metal should be removed from the 308 Lapua and LC case necks .
Just tried a piece of Winchester 308 commercial barss...what a difference. When rough sized deburred, a .338 bullet falls through the neck and a .358 bullet sticks at the beginning of case mouth, appearing to be made for a .358 Blackout...So you may get by without removing metal from the neck if you use Winchester 308 brass...Have to see when the factory barrel and dies arrive. I can skim neck turn fast in a lathe if needed, and bore the ID...cause I don't have any Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass...except Lapua and I ain't using it in this lead slinger...it'd be to thick anyway.

I know this is a necropost, but I for one would really like to hear what happened with this. I'm betting a bunch of others out there would be greatly interested if you have found a way to easily convert .308 brass to 8.6. Everywhere else I have looked, people are still trying to convert the much rarer and more expensive 6.5 Creedmoor brass. Unfortunately it seems like they are really only having luck with Hornady brass. Everything else they are having to neck turn, which isn't terrible for a dedicated enthusiast, but for the masses, isn't a great solution.