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Help with the 30 BR

Appreciate your insight. I just didn't want to waste match bullets when I had these. Did you use a reduced load.

Thanks,
Tim
No reduced load moderate load to full load.
 
I'm just coming off that! 1.6 index for years now seems like I can't hit it out of my shadow! Now scoring in the 80's sucks.
Get yourself a Maverick driver it's the cats meow or Tiger's meow! Maybe a good Scotty Cameron Titleist putter can restore that 5 handicap! Yep my second expensive hobby.
 
LCazador,
Finished up my fire forming today. Used the spare 30 Carbine bullets I had, with no issues. I think they turned out fine.

I appreciate all the help/info.

Tim
Tim, great looking job. I do two fireforms before I start work on seating depth. Find the touch for the bullet you'll be using or find the jam with a dummy round. Try at least two different bullets at the range you'll be competing at. Use wind flags when testing loads and if possible always deploy a chrono. While extreme spread is always important at long range it's a minor issue at short range but its always good to have as much info as possible.
 
Tim, great looking job. I do two fireforms before I start work on seating depth. Find the touch for the bullet you'll be using or find the jam with a dummy round. Try at least two different bullets at the range you'll be competing at. Use wind flags when testing loads and if possible always deploy a chrono. While extreme spread is always important at long range it's a minor issue at short range but its always good to have as much info as possible.

Will do. Hope I can make it back to the range soon.

Thanks,
Tim
 
Golf, another expensive hobby. Was a 6.4 and I agree, scoring in the 80's really bites now that I am in the super senior group!!! Used to hit my 3 wood farther than my driver nowadays.

Just picked up a 30 br. Built on a Springfield action and open sights only, not even drilled and tapped (yet).
 
It's not the clubs, it is the swing/golfer.
At my age it's both.LOL! All that expensive club stuff is aimed at us old golfer's. I have to tie my shoe laces every time to get that extra 20 yards. And I can do if the peanut doesn't doesn't get in the way! I'm blessed to be able to do the things I do. Some day I'll have a hole in one on every par 3, a perfect 300 in bowling, and 4 66's in 30 UBR!! Hee, hee! In these difficult times let's levity take the lead and hopelessness get left behind!
 
Golf, another expensive hobby. Was a 6.4 and I agree, scoring in the 80's really bites now that I am in the super senior group!!! Used to hit my 3 wood farther than my driver nowadays.

Just picked up a 30 br. Built on a Springfield action and open sights only, not even drilled and tapped (yet).[/QUOTE
Hitting a 3 wood or metal over a driver is equivalent to one thing LOFT. L-ack O-f F-reaking T-alent! Just kidding!! I de-loft in my old days. You know! Worm killers! Two feet off the ground! Hee, ho, ho!
 
Those 125 gr. Speers shoot pretty darn good, but most of the custom bullets are better. And its hard to beat the Harrels bushing dies.
 
Never annealed my 30 BR Lapua brass......never counted but easily 50 firings on each now.
Here's what I've been told and go by. The hardness of rifle brass changes dramatically after the first firing and roughly less so each firing after that. That's why most of the outfits that sell annealers like to show the hardness reading of unannealed brass up to 5 firings. Sorta like the cherry picking of mis-info co2 hating climate scientists spread around. Once the cases are at around 5 firings the hardening slows big time and the variance between cases will get to the point where it's less than many will get by annealing. The more firings the less change in hardness and less difference between cases. So the worse thing to do for consistency is to anneal say every 3 or 5 firings. Either anneal every firing or not at all. Pretty sure it was Randy Robinett that said he had 250 firings on his 30BR cases and they were never annealed.

I spent 30 years in a steel mill trying not to take any work home with me. Now I wish I could sit down and talk to a metallurgist and find out things like how homogeneous a ladle of brass is, is there's any benefit to annealing right after or during the forming of a new wildcat, how about cryogenics for a rifle barrel.....
 
Though this doesn't affect case life, my original 30BR barrel was a Morrison 1:18" twist, chambered by Ronnie Long. For that barrel, I made 35 cases, and took the barrel off after 6400 rounds using only those cases - never split a neck, or experienced, "neck-tension" issues.:D The last tournament I used the barrel in, it shot a 500-26x - nothing to brag about, but decent - for the VfS portion of the event, it was good for second place. Combined with a 499-26x via my Hunter Class rifle - a 30x47HBR, 1:18" twist PacNor - the old 30BR barrel/brass not only contributed to the TWO GUN Agg win, but also 1/2 of the IBS TWO GUN Record, which stood for a decade, until Dean Breeden recorded the first 1000 TWO GUN Agg.

That said, about four years ago, I got "sucked into" annealing all of my brass . . . regarding on target precision, I cannot say that it's any better - it certainly isn't any worse.;) Prior to the 2016 NBRSA Score Nationals, being lazy, and wanting to go the Louisiana pre-loaded, I annealed every piece of brass, from every barrel [chambered with my reamer] on hand, resized them, trimmed them, loaded them with 34.8gr/H-4198, and drove to LA . . . the rifle shot a decent 500-32x, finishing in third place. For the NBRSA 2017 Score Nationalss, CO, the replay button was called upon - the Bartlein 1:18" twisted, Borden action, self-built rifle delivered a nifty 500-34x, and a NBRSA VfS National Championship - the "blind squirrel" thing . . .:D

Regrading compressed powder charges in the 30BR - the top end charges are NOT, to any appreciable amount, compressed. As pointed out, via any of several methods, there is plenty of room for the powder to settle: compression does not occur until the powder granules are literally being crushed. Since I simply drop my charges from a Jones, without a drop-tube, resulting in powder about level with the case mouth, I refer to my load/method as being mildly compacted - it really is not compressed at all. Placing my index finger over the case-mouth and tapping the case-head on the table top a few times rearranges & lowers the charge to about where the bullet base will just rest against the charge, and hold it in place. My opinion.:DRG
 
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Very good post from RGR. We have big, often heated disvussions over and over about very small things, many that can be neither proved or disapproved. I think the guy with a well tuned rifle, maybe not the best tuned, who reads the conditions the best will most often rise to the top.
 
I know my way around the 30 BR pretty well, here is my combo for 100/200/300 yard score.

1-18 Krieger Barrel. 112 grn bullet, previously BIB, now my own. 34.8 grns of 4198, Federal 205 primer. I turn the necks to .010 thick with my .330 neck. I use a very light neck tension, .326 bushing, and jump the bullets .015 in a zero free bore.

The velocity will be a tad over 3000 FPS.

I use Redding Dies.

Seating depth is very important. Start with the bullets just touching, and increase seating depth by .005 until it suddenly puts them all in the same hole. Leave it there.

Everybody is right about case life. I have cases that I have been shooting for years. I have 100 made up for this years Nationals, they might outlive me.
 
I've been fighting my 30 weekly. 100yd indoor.
The tuner adds an extra possibility of what the F'k is not working.

Constant no less than 2 hole groups.
Finally I screwed tuner all the way in and then out to zero (bout .5 out), it was 1.5 revolutions out.
34.1- 34.2 jammed .018.
Got my first 1 hole 3 shot group.
( Freebore 035).
I'm 300 rounds in, not including FF.

Ive shot 2 shot groups every load from 33 to 34.6 and every B to O .010 out to letting the bolt push the bullet in trying to find one hole group.
I'm not loving it at the moment but maybe scores will change my mind.
 

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