I bought a Sinclair mandrels setup the mandrels I have are the tin coated ones they sell that look gold.What brand of expander mandrell?
I bought a Sinclair mandrels setup the mandrels I have are the tin coated ones they sell that look gold.What brand of expander mandrell?
Nowill an LCD die remove the donut ?
The tips of hollow points have a ragged tip closure.I am reloading for my Tikka 223 bolt gun using a Redding bushing die to size the case and neck. I am using an RCBS competition seating die to seat the bullets. I have-not been able to get consistent seating depth. I am loading Berger 80.5 full bore bullets and some 80 gr SMK's. The seating depth will vary by about .005 with both. I am only bumping the shoulder by .001 to .002. I have read that the Redding bushing die does not size the entire neck, could that be a problem ? Could another problem be the brass not being trimmed to the proper length ?
Is there anything you guys could suggest for me to be doing ?
I forgot to mention I am using Lapua once fired brass. Some have been fired 4 times and some 6 times
Let's hit the rest buttonis there a way to get the donut out?
is there a way to get the donut out?
yes this is a factory Tikka barrel in 223Let's hit the rest button
Is this a factory Tikka barrel? -Al
Are you willing to buy new brass? If so, do what urban rifleman mentioned above and if you are seating into the donut, buy new brass and pick up a Lee neck sizing collet die (they make one for .223). After you fire all your cases, size your brass with the Lee collet neck sizing die first and then run it through your Redding full length sizing die (top removed with no bushing). The mandrel in the Lee will help keep the donut area from becoming a smaller ID than the rest of the sized neck and even though it might not fully eliminate the feel of that donut area, it will help your seating improve dramatically. I’m not sure how your cleaning your neck but brush them the night after firing with a nylon brush and again right before you reload the cases. Oxidation will build up and cause a chalky residue if you let them set for a while and will also cause inconsistent seating. Most people won’t use Lee neck collet dies but I know for a fact that they have helped me with this issue in factory rifles with short free bores that weren’t designed for the longer bullets. They’re like 25bucks give or take. A mandrel’s not gonna solve your issue if your in the donut area. You’ll feelI am reloading for my Tikka 223 bolt gun using a Redding bushing die to size the case and neck. I am using an RCBS competition seating die to seat the bullets. I have-not been able to get consistent seating depth. I am loading Berger 80.5 full bore bullets and some 80 gr SMK's. The seating depth will vary by about .005 with both. I am only bumping the shoulder by .001 to .002. I have read that the Redding bushing die does not size the entire neck, could that be a problem ? Could another problem be the brass not being trimmed to the proper length ?
Is there anything you guys could suggest for me to be doing ?
I forgot to mention I am using Lapua once fired brass. Some have been fired 4 times and some 6 times
Thank you. I also have Sinclairs.I bought a Sinclair mandrels setup the mandrels I have are the tin coated ones they sell that look gold.
Thank you.The one I like the best is the 21st Century because they offer several different size mandrels for each caliber.
That area is easily treated with a reamer. I do it as a routine part of case maintenance.The only way to fix the donut is to not be near it.
OK.yes this is a factory Tikka barrel in 223
I’d bet donuts are the issue like Brad said. Second would be lack of anneal. Primer being flush and tip of bullet hitting seater along with the everything thing else said further down the listPartially, yes.
The donut is simply a phenomenon that happens from resizing brass vertically from top to bottom. Over time material gets moved down the neck and forms a funnel. It doesn't have to necessarily be a hard spot, which is what most people think a donut is. A donut is a thickening of the neck at the base toward the shoulder so you get more and more neck tension as the brass gets older and especially as it gets stiffer.
So you might find that some sizing dies with the expander ball show less signs of a donut but actually it's still there.
Sounds like a hunting rifle. Leave it alone if it shoots decent groups. You cannot make a factory rifle into a BR gun.I am reloading for my Tikka 223 bolt gun using a Redding bushing die to size the case and neck. I am using an RCBS competition seating die to seat the bullets. I have-not been able to get consistent seating depth. I am loading Berger 80.5 full bore bullets and some 80 gr SMK's. The seating depth will vary by about .005 with both. I am only bumping the shoulder by .001 to .002. I have read that the Redding bushing die does not size the entire neck, could that be a problem ? Could another problem be the brass not being trimmed to the proper length ?
Is there anything you guys could suggest for me to be doing ?
I forgot to mention I am using Lapua once fired brass. Some have been fired 4 times and some 6 times
No only that, I actually think the arbor press and Wilson die is faster than if I did it on my single stage press.Arbor press and Wilson die. Haven’t had a seating depth issue in 7 years. Simplicity at its finest
AGAIN, no full length bushing die will size the entire neck. It’s not physically possible.Is it the Redding bushing sizing die that causes the donut because it doesn't completely size the entire neck? I do not see or measure a donut if I size in my fl Hornady die
May I ask what full length dies you use to size your brass?AGAIN, no full length bushing die will size the entire neck. It’s not physically possible.
