Help! Where to stop turning 6mmPPC necks????

[gene pool]

Fellow 6mmPPC shooters,

I finally got all the K&M equipment to turn necks on 6mmPPC brass. I need to turn them to .261" which seems to be pretty easy. My question is, how far down the necks should I turn them for a .262" barrel? Should I stop a few thousandths short of the full neck? Or turn all the way to where the shoulder begins?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Gene

 

[msr243ai]

Help! Where to stop trimming 6mmPPC necks????

Turn them to the shoulder......The closer the better just becareful as not to turn into the shoulder too much...I've seen cases come apart from a "scribe" cut around the case-neck conjuction from being turned too far...Good Luck

 

[fdshuster]

Help! Where to stop trimming 6mmPPC necks????

I turn all my necks, all cartridges, 'til the cutter just barely touch's the shoulder.

By the way: "trimming" normally refers to cutting the case mouths shorter to maintain O.A.L.

"Turning" leaves no doubt that you're talking about outside neck turning.

Just say'n.

 

[gene pool]

Thanks for the input, and thanks for the comment about trimming vs turning. Please note that I corrected the title.

What brought this up is a You Tube video I saw on neck turning where the recommendation was to turn "close" to the shoulder but leave a little unturned to make sure it did not weaken the brass at the shoulder. Of couse he was not trimming for a tight chamber like the 6mmPPC.

 

[BoydAllen]

Back when I first started expanding and turning .220 Russian brass for my 6PPC, I was concerned about cutting too far into the shoulders of cases so I turned one, and then cut a section out of the neck and shoulder with a reinforced abrasive wheel on my Dremel tool. (Wear eye protection and a paper mask because it will throw fine brass dust into your face.) Looking at the cut section I could see that you would have to be pretty ham fisted and/ or have a cutter without a proper bevel to weaken the case at the neck shoulder junction, it is really pretty thick there. When you expand up from .220 to .243, part of the original shoulder, which is thicker, becomes the bottom of the neck, so that you are taking a noticeably heavier cut right before you reach the shoulder. One thing to check is how your brass chambers after expanding and before turning. With my chambers, i have to take a light cut on the shoulder with the bevel of the cutter so that the bolt does not take excessive effort to close. The depth of the cut is such that it is not easy to catch a finger nail on the ledge at the end of the cut. I stop and start backing off the instant that the cut on the shoulder reaches the full width of the cutter bevel. some cutters have a sharp corner where the bevel meets the part of the edge that is more parallel to the mandrel. I little stone and/or diamond lap work will modify this to a radius, my preferred configuration.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Good post, Boyd! Another well said and informative post.--Mike Ezell

 

[ronsroom1]

Hi Gene,

If you haven't read this yet, it's a great start.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/neck-turning-basics/

Ron

Fellow 6mmPPC shooters,

I finally got all the K&M equipment to turn necks on 6mmPPC brass. I need to turn them to .261" which seems to be pretty easy. My question is, how far down the necks should I turn them for a .262" barrel? Should I stop a few thousandths short of the full neck? Or turn all the way to where the shoulder begins?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Gene

 

[artbosco]

My question is, how far down the necks should I turn them?

1/32" into the Neck/Shoulder junction.

And, Optimize the Cutter Angle when you do: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?s=Optimize+Cutter+Angle+for+Improved+Neck-Turning&submit=Search