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Help me choose, 6mmbr or other

Hey everybody, first post. Have been shooting long range (1000) yards for a little over a year, though not a lot. Main LR gun is in 30-06, but I have shot some 223. Have decided that neither gun is what I want to shoot for the next part of my development.

I want a gun that I can go burn a lot of ammo as a marksmanship/training gun. I want something that is;

1) Significantly lower recoil than 30-06 or 308, I want to shoot a lot of rounds the next 12 months and don't want to get flinchy.
2) Good barrel life
3) Highly accurate cartridge. I am at the point where I want to eliminate variables (which is why the 223 is a no go), have a round that I know is good.
4) Will be reloading, so affordability is wanted
5) A gun that performs from 0 to long range, though 1000 yards is not exactly required. 650-800 is fine.
6) A gun that I can put the ladies and youngsters on that isn't intimidating, this gun will be a trainer for other people also.

So that brings the 6mmbr right to the top. The issue for me is that I am looking at 6.5 grendel and 6.5 Lapua also.

How do they compare in recoil and barrel life? What makes them interesting is I can get most of what I want from the list plus I think they are a little more lethal as far as deer sized game is concerned.

However, I think the deciding factor would be barrel life and recoil. If the recoil would shoo off the kids and womenfolk, or if they smoke barrels the 6mmbr makes more sense than the 6.5s.

Let me know what you think.
 
Outer -

Howdy !

IMHO:
Sounds like a 6BR built w/ a " no-turn" neck might be a good fit for your needs.

If finances permit, build as a " switch-barrel ", and have capability to switch barrels to suit the needs of the various shooters you mentioned.

A 6-250 would also be a fairly good fit, with 1,000 being at
the corner of the envelope.

Both cases are available w/ great brass they have these days.

Regards,
357Mag
 
Outerspace,
I think that what ever you do, the .260 rem should be the "largest" or hardest hitter.
6br/brx/dasher/x47lapua/XC/CM or 6.5creedmore/lapua/and .260rem. the 6mm's will keep the flinching down. I shoot both .308 and the punishing 300 winny (when i am told to) at the 1k and love shooting the .260 rem. Barrel life with the .260 is pretty good too. 357mag is on the money with a switch bbl. get your stock with a whidden block and do a switch bbl between your 30-06 (you) and something else for your buddies/ loved ones. if you are already a .308 shooter you can make your own brass for the .260. you probably already have a good powder for it too from shooting .30-06/.223. Lapua just made the job easier by making brass for you too! consider it but if recoil is more important.. shoot smaller projos and go 6mm. just curions but was your .223 bolt or gas? maybe 6mm-ar type could be up your alley if you wanted to build just an upper for a black gun??
cheers,
doc
 
6 BR sounds perfect for what you are asking it to do. Very accurate, minimal recoil, good barrel life, and excellent bullets with better BC than most .30 cals, excellent brass out of the box. 6mm bullets are less costly than the 6.5mm, as are brass, if you can find it for the 6.5x47. If you end up shooting more LR than short/mid range, then you can always rechamber to 6BRX with little effort, and keep using the same 6BR brass, bullets, and dies! If you want, you could convert that 30/06 to 6BR with new barrel as they are the same case head diameter.
 
Outerspace said:
I want a gun that I can go burn a lot of ammo as a marksmanship/training gun. I want something that is;

1) Significantly lower recoil than 30-06 or 308, I want to shoot a lot of rounds the next 12 months and don't want to get flinchy.
2) Good barrel life
3) Highly accurate cartridge. I am at the point where I want to eliminate variables (which is why the 223 is a no go), have a round that I know is good.
4) Will be reloading, so affordability is wanted
5) A gun that performs from 0 to long range, though 1000 yards is not exactly required. 650-800 is fine.
6) A gun that I can put the ladies and youngsters on that isn't intimidating, this gun will be a trainer for other people also.

You just described the 6.5x47 Lapua my friend! Accurate, excellent ballistics that will carry you to 1000 yards without punishing your shoulder, and great barrel life!
 
I have a 17lb 6BR that my autistic nephew loves to shoot, you could say he is tish sensitive, if he can shoot it........ The 6br meets all your criteria except it could use a bit more HP for 1K. Read about Jason Baney's success at 1K. (I am building another for mid-range matches, love the dang cartridge, simple, accurate & easy)

On the other hand, going one step up to the 6.5x47L. Alll you gotta do is read about Mr. 6.5x47L above. Erik C. drives that bus extremely successfully.

Cant go wrong with either cartridge.. Pick something from the Lapua brass line up that does not need fancy dies or fireforming steps and shoot it like you stole..... K.I.S.S......I say... ;)

Rod in Fargo
 
Lots of good information. Lots to digest. Will have some comments and questions.

My LR 223 was a Varminter from Bushmaster. Can shoot just about MOA with it but lose it at longer ranges.
 
What kind of hunting can you do with a 6mmbr?

Edit, I have seen pro hunters mention that 243 may be too light for some people for a deer, so it would be cool if this could also serve as a whitetail/blacktail gun.
 
Since you say this will be a multi-purpose rifle, with some training functions too, presumably you may be shooting some steel and some varmints. Here's one factor to consider. I used to shoot a .260 Remington. My preferred load was with 123gr Scenars moving about 2950 fps. With that load in a 14-lb rifle I could NOT see my hits on critters or steel without a muzzle brake. I put a 6mmBR barrel on that same gun to shoot 105s at 2900 fps and now I CAN see my hits -- even without a brake.

About BR Improveds: Right now I'm looking at the 6mm BRDX as a possible next chambering. If we can get some factory sizing dies for it, that might be the clincher. Because it has a longer neck than Dasher/BRX, fire-forming is more foolproof. You do give up some velocity vs. the Dasher/BRX, but the case will drive 105s at 2950 comfortably, and that is a very accurate node. With the BRDX, I hope I can drive the bullets at optimal velocities without pushing the brass real hard. We shall see.
 
Nodak7mm said:
I have a 17lb 6BR that my autistic nephew loves to shoot, you could say he is tish sensitive, if he can shoot it........ The 6br meets all your criteria except it could use a bit more HP for 1K. Read about Jason Baney's success at 1K. (I am building another for mid-range matches, love the dang cartridge, simple, accurate & easy)

On the other hand, going one step up to the 6.5x47L. Alll you gotta do is read about Mr. 6.5x47L above. Erik C. drives that bus extremely successfully.

Cant go wrong with either cartridge.. Pick something from the Lapua brass line up that does not need fancy dies or fireforming steps and shoot it like you stole..... K.I.S.S......I say... ;)

Rod in Fargo
Got to agree with you Rod. Erik Loves the 6.5x47 Lapua ;D However he has reason too! I really need to have a barrel chambered in this round! Time, money, and my intrest in FTR is the only reason I haven't done it yet!
Mark
 
deadlyswift said:
Got to agree with you Rod. Erik Loves the 6.5x47 Lapua ;D However he has reason too! I really need to have a barrel chambered in this round! Time, money, and my intrest in FTR is the only reason I haven't done it yet!
Mark

Why wouldn't I? Like I said, accurate, great ballistics, easy on shoulder, and great barrel life! What's not to love about the 6.5x47 Lapua?
 
At this point getting a switch barrel between 6mmbr and 6.5 lap looks like the way to go. Both seem interesting and I don't see anybody going to bat for the grendel, which seems to be sort of a hybrid competing with both the 308 and the 6.8 SPC. The other ones mentioned may be getting off the reservation for me, but I have about 2 months to make this decision so will certainly be looking at them.

I don't know anything about barrel switchable guns, so I was wondering if anyone had a quick on dirty on how that works. I have put together an AR and done some other smithing, this was going to be my first bolt assembly but it may be over my head. If anybody has a link or explanation handy.

I wanted to mention what a friendly and helpful forum this is, it is rather a notable exception, so kudos to everybody.
 
If your gun doesn't have a barrel nut, then your gunsmith would thread and chamber two barrels for you, then he would pin the recoil lug so that is stays put when switch barrels. Then all you would need is a barrel vise and an action wrench, clamp the barrel in the vise (don't have to remove stock or scope) and insert action wrench, twist action counter clockwise until barrel breaks free, take it out of vise then unscrew by hand. Screw the other barrel and hand tighten, the barrel will headspace when tightened, then put in vise and tighten using action wrench, take it out to 100 yards and shoot a group and make a note of where the POI is compared to other barrel. Make adjustments and you are ready to go. When you go back to original barrel, move scope back to original position and you should be good to go, shoot it at 100 yards the first time to double check but it should be dead on.

If it has a barrel nut like a savage, then the difference is that you will need a barrel nut wrench and go and no go gauges to headspace barrels.
 
You could readily buy a factory 6BR f-class or Target Savage for comparatively short money and be shooting little groups the first day using commonly available loads with no fireforming.
Could also buy a cheap readily available hunting stock and switch back and forth depending on your venue.
 

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