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Help me build a dasher

Ok guys right now I have a 6mm dasher . 700 action Calvin elite trigger 28 inch heavy varmint Brux , HS sendero style stock with a Sightron 8-32 moa2 reticle . I have never shot a f class match only banged steel and a local 500 yard match . My plans are to shoot a f class match this year with my current setup . I have been talking to a very competive 600 yard f class shooter . My plans are next year going all in . Thinking of buying my own reamer . What do you guys suggest ? I have been shooting 107 sierras and 105 vld hunting bullets out of my current rifle .
I would like to try the hybrids but some times they are hard to come by . Also what kind of stock do you recommend ? I'm also thinking about buying a bald eagle front rest and a bald eagle rear bag . Right now I'm using a Harris bi pod and a el cheapo rear bag . I have shot some really tiny groups with this setup . If you were gonna build a f class rifle what would u do ? Gonna stay with my 700 action Calvin elite trigger and current optics . I just want to know what reamer dimensions I should go with and what bullets are my best bet . Also was thinking about buying a stock from Ryan Pierce . Any input would be greatly aprriecated . Thanks
 
Also I'm was wondering about barrels. Brux, Bartlien,Krieger Broughton ?? I really like the 2 Brux barrels I have now .
 
My plans are to accumulate all the parts I need this summer . And have my smith build me this setup this fall/winter
 
It is really only limited by your imagination. A .104 freebore is about perfect for 105 VLD bullets in the rifling. That is what I use. I started out with a 30" Benchmark 3 groove barrel. It shots 1's with RE-15 at 3030-3050 fps. It's on its last legs though - too many rounds and gotten too hot too many times.

I have a second-hand 5R 28" barrel with a .135 ish freebore that shoots the same speeds while jumping with Varget, but it will be slightly harder on the brass. It also shoots very well - low 2's and below.

I'd suggest a 30" long barrel. I have to say, cut rifled isn't all it's made out to be on the internet. I can't tell the difference between cut and button rifled. The spindles can't tell either.

BTW, I'd suggest learning to move your POI around a little - killing the spotter is really not going to be good for your score.
 
Reamer….266 neck/.135 freebore.
barrel…..the three Bs, maybe 4(add Benchmark) and a K that you mentioned are all good, .236" or .237". Finish at 28" to 30". Go heavy on the barrel. 1.25" for 5" then straight taper to 1.0" at finish length or straight 1.25" all the way. Stock….PR&T Low Boy BR, this is a great stock for F-Class or BR or their F-Class stock. Again…there are many good stocks choose one you like. I would also skip the Remington action and buy a BAT M model. You definitely want a custom action. Something rb/lp/re, or for F-Class you may want a right bolt/right port it's up to you, unless your left handed then go opposite. BUT BUY A CUSTOM ACTION. BAT is a good one but so are the Kelbly Panda's. Actually there are many good actions out there now. Use the best gunsmiths, there are many. One for the metal work and another for bedding/stock work. There are some that do both well. Don't do this half ass. Fact is save up and when you have all the $ needed do it RIGHT you will NEVER regret doing it right. You will FOREVER regret doing it wrong/cheap.
 
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Reamer….266 neck/.135 freebore for 87-115 grain bullets.
barrel…..the three Bs, maybe 4(add Benchmark) and a K that you mentioned are all good, .236" or .237". Finish at 28" to 30". Go heavy on the barrel. 1.25" for 5" then straight taper to 1.0" at finish length or straight 1.25" all the way. Stock….PR&T Low Boy BR, this is a great stock for F-Class or BR or their F-Class stock. Again…there are many good stocks choose one you like. I would also skip the Remington action and buy a BAT M model. You definitely want a custom action. Something rb/lp/re, or for F-Class you may want a right bolt/right port it's up to you, unless your left handed then go opposite. BUT BUY A CUSTOM ACTION. BAT is a good one but so are the Kelbly Panda's. Actually there are many good actions out there now. Use the best gunsmiths, there are many. One for the metal work and another for bedding/stock work. There are some that do both well. Don't do this half ass. Fact is save up and when you have all the $ needed do it RIGHT you will NEVER regret doing it right. You will FOREVER regret doing it wrong/cheap.


Real good advice especially about buying a custom action. No knock on Rem but when you get it to what it needs to be you can almost buy a custom action, I know from experience. If you shoot 107s mine always like to be jumped so .135 fb is good.
 
Also I'm was wondering about barrels. Brux, Bartlien,Krieger Broughton ?? I really like the 2 Brux barrels I have now .

They are al excellent options, Brux, Bartlein and Krieger are all cut rifled barrels, Broughton are button rifled. Some argue you get more barrel life out of a cut rifled barrel. I'm running a 30" Brux for a 284 at the moment and a Benchmark on a 6mm SLR. With the right load both shoot in the .2s at 100 metres.
 
I like Krieger for cut barrels or Broughton for button. Go 1.250 for 5 inches or straight 1.250. I like .135 or .155 freebore. If you go less then that you will harder on brass to get the velocity and be too close to donut. I like Jewell triggers or better yet A Bix N Andy. The PRT stocks are pretty popular. The Borden action is another good choice. Build it right the first time and be done. You buy a Remington action and put the money in it to make it right and you still have a REM action. It isn't worth anymore then when you started. With a custom they hold there value. Then you can also get the bolt and port design you want and they will bed better. Matt
 
We all have our preferences, and they are all valid. But I have had 4 Dashers now and you begin to learn a few things about them. I have also been shooting F-Open since 2011 and I have learned a few things there. Here is a summation of what I would do:
1.) Since you are going to stay with the action you now have, telling you to get a custom will be an effort in futility. However, that is something you should really consider.

2.) I like Krieger barrels. A 1.250 for 5-6 inches tapering to, I believe, .980 is "their" #17 HV.. Get a .236 bore and finish it at 28"..

3.) I like either a Shehane Tracker Stock or the Kelbly 1M Carbon fiber. Remember, if a stock is not perfectly straight, it can NOT track correctly. Not tracking correctly is anathema to excellent accuracy from 600 yards and beyond!

4.) Reamer: I like a .271 neck. That means you cut the neck walls to 12K, use a .266 bushing and get 4k neck clearance. Additionally, I like a .155 freebore and I am or should I say, HAVE become a believer in the Berger 108 B/Tails. They have a longish bearing surface and you do need a good, long freebore! They are SUPERBLY accurate.

5.) I know you also said you are going to keep your scope>>>IF you decide to change your mind, look for a GOOD USED NightForce Benchrest model with a CH-3 crosshair.
 
I was talking to a gun smith last weekend . He said he might go with less freebore and then he could throat it to my liking . Is this a good idea or should I go with something around .135 and up ? What about a no turn neck ? Anyone have any lick going this route? Or are you guys running tight necks . I just bought a neck wall thickness gauge . Gonna buy a neck turner next week. Was thinking about going with a K and M or a 21st century any input on these would be great . Thanks
 
Lee, I've been shooting a blueprinted 700 (Dave Bruno) 6 Dasher for several years in F-Open and have been very successful with it. My reamer is a .2704" no-turn neck and .104" freebore. I shot the Hybrids until going to Vapor Trails last Summer.

Have shot Bartleins, a Douglas and Brux's and now use only Brux going forward. Their 4-groove .236" bore works well with an 8 twist.

Absolutely no problems.
 
Dave Bruno has built all of my rifles, and is currently helping me piece together either a 6 Dasher, 6 Competition Match, or 6x47. When I told him I was considering the 6 Dasher with 105s he told me .104 free bore was the way to go. And that it would be ideal for both DTACs and Berger...FWIW.

God do his rifles hammer.
 
Ok guys right now I have a 6mm dasher . 700 action Calvin elite trigger 28 inch heavy varmint Brux , HS sendero style stock with a Sightron 8-32 moa2 reticle . I have never shot a f class match only banged steel and a local 500 yard match . My plans are to shoot a f class match this year with my current setup . I have been talking to a very competive 600 yard f class shooter . My plans are next year going all in . Thinking of buying my own reamer . What do you guys suggest ? I have been shooting 107 sierras and 105 vld hunting bullets out of my current rifle .
I would like to try the hybrids but some times they are hard to come by . Also what kind of stock do you recommend ? I'm also thinking about buying a bald eagle front rest and a bald eagle rear bag . Right now I'm using a Harris bi pod and a el cheapo rear bag . I have shot some really tiny groups with this setup . If you were gonna build a f class rifle what would u do ? Gonna stay with my 700 action Calvin elite trigger and current optics . I just want to know what reamer dimensions I should go with and what bullets are my best bet . Also was thinking about buying a stock from Ryan Pierce . Any input would be greatly aprriecated . Thanks
I run a .104 freebore .271 neck reamer. I shoot 105 jlk's @ 3050fps(32.2grs Varget) out of 1.25" strait 8 twist krieger 30" .237 bore Shehane tracker stock. This rifle was built by Omar Alonzo out of Houston Texas.This combo has been to the range three times. First match 600/50x 300yards,600/48x300 yards. So for me thats the reamer i will use . If you shoot other bullets as shoots dots says,you will need a longer freebore. Omar's work is very good.
 

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