audredger said:Wow..what a read! I believe that you guys have found the problem but have failed to agree that it IS the problem. I believe the problem is corrosion. A bolt with a rusted nut is not "cold welded" but you would swear it was! I for one, have hands that will eat a gold wedding band. One poster stated that if he handles a bullet, his fingerprints show within a day. I have pulled loads that didn't workout and have found my fingerprints on the bullet after a hard pull complete with "pop".
I will not use molly coated bullets because of its affinity for water and subsequent corrosion. Though I use HBN coated bullets I wonder if I should be using anti-sieze (what a mess that would be)? I believe that factory ammo does not have this problem because it is not handled with bare hands but only with clean cotton gloves. As pogo said "we have met the enemy and they are us". We are the source of corrosion with our acid skin oil & salts.
Hey that's my saying ;Daudredger said:I stand corrected
bozo699 said:Hey that's my saying ;Daudredger said:I stand corrected
You well be right on some of us home loaders though, I have seen the fingure print your describing, in my case with the moly that wasn't the case. You mention you use HBN, what do you like about it over moly and why, I have been thinking about giving it a whirl.
Wayne.
Well written post Alf,...what type of preparations do you do to your inside neck before seating your bullets and do you wax your mollied bullets?alf said:Alrighty then.....example number two.......
I had 36 rounds of 6.5-284 loaded on 4-14-10 that I wanted to shoot in a different barrel that needs a longer OAL. These were moly plated and loaded into freshly annealed brass.
First I ran the Wilson seater stem way out so as not to "pop" the stem on the body top, plus I padded it with strips of masking tape. I re-seated 10 of them a little deeper to break the "bond", so to speak. While there did seem to be a little more effort to start them, there was no snap, crackle or pop.
Next, I tried just to pull them with the Sinclair pliers type bullet puller. With this method, there was no real effort to "start" them moving, so I feel now there was not much, if any, bond to over come with either method, so I just pulled the remainder rather, than re-seating them first.
So I've come to the same conclusion again that with my brass prep and loading methods, it makes no difference when I load my ammo. I decided a long time ago to load when I have time, and not a day or two before a match. I've proven it several times over.....
I do believe that cold welding (or what ever someone wants to call it)exists, but I don't see it with my ammo.
alf said:No wax on the bullets and I don't touch the inside of the necks with anything, that area is strictly off limits.......
jimbires said:do you use a die with an expander button?
bozo699 said:Alf,
What discipline and what distance are you shooting? do you use a inline seating die? and do your bullets just slide in or does it take quite a bit of force? Sorry for so many questions but this thread and what were talking about actually goes with about three or four different threads I am involved with right now and you brought up a interesting aspect of not touching your inside neck AT ALL!! thank's in advance.Wayne.
alf said:bozo699 said:Alf,
What discipline and what distance are you shooting? do you use a inline seating die? and do your bullets just slide in or does it take quite a bit of force? Sorry for so many questions but this thread and what were talking about actually goes with about three or four different threads I am involved with right now and you brought up a interesting aspect of not touching your inside neck AT ALL!! thank's in advance.Wayne.
1K BR with a little 600 BR thrown in for good measure.
Die is a standard Wilson inline seater.
Dasher is a .269" neck, loaded round of .2675", .265 bushing.
jimbires said:what do you do to your necks after annealing ?