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Have you had any experience with "cold welding" of bullets in case necks?

Boyd,
What is the site for the swiss powder for? I know your saying something I am just missing it.
Wayne.
 
Wow..what a read! I believe that you guys have found the problem but have failed to agree that it IS the problem. I believe the problem is corrosion. A bolt with a rusted nut is not "cold welded" but you would swear it was! I for one, have hands that will eat a gold wedding band. One poster stated that if he handles a bullet, his fingerprints show within a day. I have pulled loads that didn't workout and have found my fingerprints on the bullet after a hard pull complete with "pop".

I will not use molly coated bullets because of its affinity for water and subsequent corrosion. Though I use HBN coated bullets I wonder if I should be using anti-sieze (what a mess that would be)? I believe that factory ammo does not have this problem because it is not handled with bare hands but only with clean cotton gloves. As pogo said "we have met the enemy and they are us". We are the source of corrosion with our acid skin oil & salts.
 
audredger said:
Wow..what a read! I believe that you guys have found the problem but have failed to agree that it IS the problem. I believe the problem is corrosion. A bolt with a rusted nut is not "cold welded" but you would swear it was! I for one, have hands that will eat a gold wedding band. One poster stated that if he handles a bullet, his fingerprints show within a day. I have pulled loads that didn't workout and have found my fingerprints on the bullet after a hard pull complete with "pop".

I will not use molly coated bullets because of its affinity for water and subsequent corrosion. Though I use HBN coated bullets I wonder if I should be using anti-sieze (what a mess that would be)? I believe that factory ammo does not have this problem because it is not handled with bare hands but only with clean cotton gloves. As pogo said "we have met the enemy and they are us". We are the source of corrosion with our acid skin oil & salts.

Who in blue thunder told you that! I work where they load hundreds of thousands of bullets per shift and NO ONE wears cotton gloves, they wear disposable blue rubber gloves and when they take them off the only place that is blue is the backs of them, those are the ones who wear gloves, many don't like the heat and wear no gloves at all, they scoop them with plastic scoops onto plates that sit in a vibratory bin, they scoop them onto the plates and then roll the ones into the plates that didn't go by themselves by hand, all the actual load work is automated, now they may load a few thousand rounds a year in a little mom & Pop outfit but they sure don't handle each bullet with a cotton glove in a large ammunition plant.
Wayne.
 
audredger said:
I stand corrected
Hey that's my saying ;D
You well be right on some of us home loaders though, I have seen the fingure print your describing, in my case with the moly that wasn't the case. You mention you use HBN, what do you like about it over moly and why, I have been thinking about giving it a whirl.
Wayne.
 
Alrighty then.....example number two.......

I had 36 rounds of 6.5-284 loaded on 4-14-10 that I wanted to shoot in a different barrel that needs a longer OAL. These were moly plated and loaded into freshly annealed brass.

First I ran the Wilson seater stem way out so as not to "pop" the stem on the body top, plus I padded it with strips of masking tape. I re-seated 10 of them a little deeper to break the "bond", so to speak. While there did seem to be a little more effort to start them, there was no snap, crackle or pop.

Next, I tried just to pull them with the Sinclair pliers type bullet puller. With this method, there was no real effort to "start" them moving, so I feel now there was not much, if any, bond to over come with either method, so I just pulled the remainder rather, than re-seating them first.

So I've come to the same conclusion again that with my brass prep and loading methods, it makes no difference when I load my ammo. I decided a long time ago to load when I have time, and not a day or two before a match. I've proven it several times over.....

I do believe that cold welding (or what ever someone wants to call it)exists, but I don't see it with my ammo.
 
bozo699 said:
audredger said:
I stand corrected
Hey that's my saying ;D
You well be right on some of us home loaders though, I have seen the fingure print your describing, in my case with the moly that wasn't the case. You mention you use HBN, what do you like about it over moly and why, I have been thinking about giving it a whirl.
Wayne.

1st.. I have never used moly on bullets; my experience with moly is with MDG grease. Nasty stuff that gets everywhere and doesn't wash out of a uniform.

HBN is easy to apply, clean and doesn't need a wax finish coat. The barrel "seems" to be easy-er to clean than with naked bullets. I believe that it was David Tubb that claimed that a cold bore shot was the same as a warm bore / fouled bore. This appears to be the somewhat true, I think if I pre treated the bore with HBN it would be more so. This is still a work in progress.
mike
 
alf said:
Alrighty then.....example number two.......

I had 36 rounds of 6.5-284 loaded on 4-14-10 that I wanted to shoot in a different barrel that needs a longer OAL. These were moly plated and loaded into freshly annealed brass.

First I ran the Wilson seater stem way out so as not to "pop" the stem on the body top, plus I padded it with strips of masking tape. I re-seated 10 of them a little deeper to break the "bond", so to speak. While there did seem to be a little more effort to start them, there was no snap, crackle or pop.

Next, I tried just to pull them with the Sinclair pliers type bullet puller. With this method, there was no real effort to "start" them moving, so I feel now there was not much, if any, bond to over come with either method, so I just pulled the remainder rather, than re-seating them first.

So I've come to the same conclusion again that with my brass prep and loading methods, it makes no difference when I load my ammo. I decided a long time ago to load when I have time, and not a day or two before a match. I've proven it several times over.....

I do believe that cold welding (or what ever someone wants to call it)exists, but I don't see it with my ammo.
Well written post Alf,...what type of preparations do you do to your inside neck before seating your bullets and do you wax your mollied bullets?
Wayne.
 
No wax on the bullets and I don't touch the inside of the necks with anything, that area is strictly off limits.......
 
Alf,
What discipline and what distance are you shooting? do you use a inline seating die? and do your bullets just slide in or does it take quite a bit of force? Sorry for so many questions but this thread and what were talking about actually goes with about three or four different threads I am involved with right now and you brought up a interesting aspect of not touching your inside neck AT ALL!! thank's in advance.
Wayne.
 
Look up stick slip phenomenon on Wikipedia. When two surfaces are in contact it takes more force to start them moving than to maintain them in motion. Static friction is higher than sliding friction. Maybe this has something to do with it.
 
bozo699 said:
Alf,
What discipline and what distance are you shooting? do you use a inline seating die? and do your bullets just slide in or does it take quite a bit of force? Sorry for so many questions but this thread and what were talking about actually goes with about three or four different threads I am involved with right now and you brought up a interesting aspect of not touching your inside neck AT ALL!! thank's in advance.Wayne.

1K BR with a little 600 BR thrown in for good measure.

Die is a standard Wilson inline seater.

Dasher is a .269" neck, loaded round of .2675", .265 bushing.
 
alf said:
bozo699 said:
Alf,
What discipline and what distance are you shooting? do you use a inline seating die? and do your bullets just slide in or does it take quite a bit of force? Sorry for so many questions but this thread and what were talking about actually goes with about three or four different threads I am involved with right now and you brought up a interesting aspect of not touching your inside neck AT ALL!! thank's in advance.Wayne.

1K BR with a little 600 BR thrown in for good measure.

Die is a standard Wilson inline seater.

Dasher is a .269" neck, loaded round of .2675", .265 bushing.

Alf,
Thank you for the info.

I shoot 1K BR w/6BRX .269 neck and loaded round .266,..bushing .265
I was running .002 neck clearance but I turned another .001 for a total of .003 neck clearance and it seemed to lower my vertical, I have thought about bumping up my tension another .001 using a .264 bushing, I always brush my necks real good, maybe I should leave them alone this go around, thank you for the info.
Wayne.
 
jimbires said:
what do you do to your necks after annealing ?

I don't touch them. I tumble, anneal, size, tumble, and load.

I dread trimming, as I then have to chamfer inside and out, then wrap 0000 steel wool on a brass brush to break/polish the inside edge left from the VLD tool.
 

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