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Harrison M300 Lathe

A VFD conversion can be complicated. You need to run all of your switches and controls through the VFD to start/stop/control the motor... But that lathe schematic doesn't look terribly complicated.

The advantage of them is being able to have infinitely variable speed, power braking, etc.

I can share the docs I used to convert my PM1440GT so you can get an idea of what you're up against, but again, that machine looks a lot simpler to do.
 
Mine is a M300B and was made in England. It has a 3hp motor, I think. You can run it off a VFD, but I run mine on a 7 1/2hp RPC. You don't need one that big just for the lathe. I run everything in the shop off my RPC. They are good little machines. The only things to watch for is the compound gear box 8 position shifter on the bottom left side. The gears inside are changed by a series of Delrin cams. That's what slides the gears back and forth on their shafts. Those cams tend to swell over time and it gets hard to change gears for threading. It's really no worry because you can spend a week or so dithering with getting the thing apart and keeping track of how those cams are in sequence on their 5/8" shaft and you can set them up between centers on another lathe and turn a few thou off the OD. Or you can order another set from Clausing Service Center and just change them out. Also it should have change gears for low range (>16) and high (<16 up) range threads. It cuts metric and Imperial. Gear shops can make them if they don't come with the lathe. They're modular (metric). The other thing is the Bellows on the apron. It's the little plastic knob that oils the apron. The rubber will wear (deteriate) and it will leak. Other than that, they are good lathes. Mine cuts good threads and is well made other than the design hiccups. All lathes have them. Apparently, engineers cannot be experts like us, especially with an accountant's nose stuck up their butt. It's just another day in Paradise if you can keep track of the micrometers and calipers.
 
Oh, RPC's should have start and run capacitors. You have to have run caps. in order to get the three legs balanced in capacitance. A three-phase motor will run off two phase input after started ( called single phasing) but will lack capacitance on the third leg. Your motor will run hot and if you have heaters in the circuit, which you do, they will overheat and shut down. Three ways to get the RPC. You can get the size three phase motor and buy a start/run circuit from Anderson or WNY Supply. (not sure they're still in business) You can build it from scratch with capacitors and a relay. Or you can purchase the entire unit together and once you have it just run 220V single phase in and Three phase out to the machines.
RPC's are not like static convertors. Static units must be upsized, or they won't produce true current enough to get full use of the main motor. RPC's if balanced do put out enough capacitance to get full power if it's sized right. No need to get one too much bigger than your main motor because you are just wasting current.
 
I think some are confusing a static to a rotary phase converter as to the third leg. A rotary does not drop the generated leg once the motor starts like a static does. In practice you’d never notice the difference between a rotary and true three phase power.

 
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When I build my big shop, In the lounge area, I'm going to have a 10EE sitting in the middle of the room like a center piece, it wont be used, but it'll be polished with a diaper and I'll hire BC'z to paint it for me. That's how cool I think they are!
 
Moving it in with my 6913 Clausing in the background.
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My 2 old Bridgeports.
View attachment 1451491

My friend just bought one of those Bridgeport Mills. It's completely loaded and barely been used. It has all the tricks on it. I don't know that much about them but it's got every option you could get. He bought it from his old employer which used it to make fixtures and it's barely been used since the 1970s. They got it really cheap too.
 
I had 3 phase at my old shop. Now I run my stuff on a Phoenix rotary. I almost feel like the lathe is even smoother. Id say to get one twice the size as your largest motor. Super easy to hook up and runs quieter than my lathe motor. When I bought my new lathe I was told a static converter will void the warranty. Why, I dont know.
Thank you.
 
Do you mean a 10EE? I think it is the epitome off all lathes if you can work with limited swing and distance between centers. Go figure, my 10EE ran on single phase, but the coolant pump was 3 phase.
There’s a guy in eastern Washington selling a 10EE inch/metric I really love to have.
Tube drive and in nice shape.
 
When I build my big shop, In the lounge area, I'm going to have a 10EE sitting in the middle of the room like a center piece, it wont be used, but it'll be polished with a diaper and I'll hire BC'z to paint it for me. That's how cool I think they are!
A friend of mine is a financial backer for an NHRA Fuel Funny Car team. From time to time, they end up with some billet blocks that can't be repaired and put back into the rotation. They make cool coffee tables for a lounge area. :) -Al

AQl3rllh.jpg
 
A friend of mine is a financial backer for an NHRA Fuel Funny Car team. From time to time, they end up with some billet blocks that can't be repaired and put back into the rotation. They make cool coffee tables for a lounge area. :) -Al

AQl3rllh.jpg
When you consider all the costs associated with that block it’s quite a statement.
My kinda art.
 

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