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Hard to get off barrel

The key to getting all your force into torque at the barrel joint without losing most of flex is to support it on both ends. I use a 4 foot 4x4. Here's a video clip of a Garand barrel, but the concept is the same. I modified my M1/M1A tool to take a 3 foot cheater bar, and put all my weight into it with one quick hop onto the wrench.

 
I feel like my play is in my barrel vise… I feel my action wrench is good… there is slight play on vise end I think
 

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It wouldn't hurt to heat the front part of the action with a heat gun set on high, don't get to close to the action. It should be hot to the touch. You could check it with a lazer temperature gun.
Make sure your action wrench is not to tight. it should be clamped up as close to the barrel as possible.
Have someone load, put pressure on the wrench before hitting it with the hammer.
Get a Bigger hammer, a 2lb hammer is small,
. Get a 4-5 lb hammer or a 3-4' extension.

Hal
 
Get some of the black oxide coated bolts from McMaster... Keep a drop of oil on them. Torque'm down like a man.
When I wrench on equipment I’m known for snapping off anything less than 1/2” bolts with a wrench ‍… I stopped on this when I felt I was getting close to that point
 
I feel like my play is in my barrel vise… I feel my action wrench is good… there is slight play on vise end I think
Sporter bbls can be the worst or any bbl with a lot of taper that makes it tough to hold well. You can pour bushings with jb or devcon and that very close fit will work wonders. Just put some thought ito it though. Don't want it crumbling apart. Same goes for machining bushing that fit your bbl very well
 
I realize you are asking the OP, but i figure I would add to the results.

My two tikka barrels, had no loctite, anti seize or anything on them. At the time, T3 is probably 15+ years old and the T3x was 5 years old. They were just on there tight. If I remember watching a factory video about tikka's, they use a machine to torque on the barrels. I would be very surprised if Sako did not use the same methods.
 
I realize you are asking the OP, but i figure I would add to the results.

My two tikka barrels, had no loctite, anti seize or anything on them. At the time, T3 is probably 15+ years old and the T3x was 5 years old. They were just on there tight. If I remember watching a factory video about tikka's, they use a machine to torque on the barrels. I would be very surprised if Sako did not use the same methods.
My Sako TRG 41 barrel was extremely tight, it felt like I was going to break the action before it broke loose. Tim
 

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