rem barrel removel

[joefish]

i am trying to take the barrel off a rem 700,and like many i belive they use a 20 foot long wrench to install them. any problem with milling a hex on the barrels thickess part? i am useing hardwood blocks with rosin in a 6" kurt vise
but it just keeps slipping.

 

[JohnMill]

First you got to hold it still. I use a bbl vise by Bruno with lead shims and rosin. No tricks just brute force. you did not state about an action wrench. I use a Brownells. On the worst one I used a 4 ft cheater on the action wrench and had my wife wack it with a hammer. Had to tighten the bbl vise several times as it kept skwarshin the lead shims. If i ever need heat I don't use more than a flat iron held on the action for 15 minutes, heat up time and all. It don't want to let go so you may have to wack it around a revolution b4 you can just turn it off.
every time I said i'd never do another Rem but I do.

John

 

[Dans40X]

Turn a tapered aluminum or steel bushing 3" wide to barrel taper w/ clearance for a 3X5 card for the quality barrel vises.
Attach front receiver ring action wrench.
Apply a little heat inside receiver as current production barrels have loc tite applied prior to assembly.
Spin action off barrel.

Wooden V blocks won't get you where you want to be.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

If the barrel is not to be reused, put a pipe wrench on it.

 

[Preacher]

Kroil overnight and a heat gun, along with a good vise and barrel wrench will do what needs to be done.. Lots of thread locker is used on the 700's and it's a bear to let loose...

 

[joefish]

i did not know they used loctite or i would have soaked it overnite . i am gonna reuse the barrel, but will shorten it. and turn it down.i thought the hex would be the e-z way to go. after the hex and turning ,i would have it black ox at work. i hate useing heat ,its the last resort. thanx for the replys.

 

[Preacher]

A heat gun will never harm the metal, it just wont get that hot..

 

[varminthunter1]

If you have the ability to chuck up the barrel in a lathe, sacrifice the recoil lug. Just cut right thru the lug. it will usually eliminate the stress between the mating surfaces, and you wont mess up the barrel(if that is ever a concern) unless you cut too deep. Iv`e done this on quite a few Remington and savage barrels that were stuck. it works!
Jeff

 

[riflecrank]

The newer Remingtons are torqued to at least 175 lbs and they use a thread locking compound on top of that. You need to heat it to at least 500 to break down the thread locker compound and then have a stout barrel vise and wrench. I have a 10 ton hydraulic jack barrel vise. I use two pieces of hard lead alloy that is rosined up. The barrel is put in and the jack is pumped up as tight as possible. I have a special Remington action wrench that I made at gunsmithing school that has a 30" handle. I get a friend over and I pull as hard as possible on the wrench and my buddy nails the end of the handle with a dead blow hammer. That usually works.

 

[GNERGY]

Use a heat gun and you will see the loctite turn white inside the screw holes. I use an action wrench and also put a big crescent wrench with something inbetween as to not mark the action on the recoil lug and turn both at the same time. Just when you think it won't turn, POP it will break free. You got to get the threadlocker heated to brake loose. Just soaking it with penetrant won't work.
Tarey

 

[Larryh128]

What works a little better removing an action, once any loctite has been softened, with the barrel securely (won't move at all, I put them in a 20 ton press) action wrench installed tight & fitting properly with the handle 90 degrees to the side. Absolutely clock the handle with either a heavy deadblow hammer or a 8# sledge hammer. The shock breaks them loose. It will do what a 8' pipe won't.

 

[RandyB]

This has worked well for me. With the barrel clamped tightly position your action wrench where you can lean on it and take a brass drift and put against the flat of the recoil lug. Heat it with heat gun. No deadblow, get a 2lb hammer and get everything just right and knock the #?*! out of it. Easier done if you have help but is doable by yourself. This way you are not torqueing the action as much as hitting the action wrench. You are directing the impact to the recoil lug. FWIW.