Hard Cleaning Barrel

[Old Navy]

Is Reloader 15 dirtier than Varget? Later! Frank

 

[dreever]

When I tried it the lot I had was really dirty, so I just stuck with Varget and never looked back.

Danny

 

[Bob3700]

While RL15 has given me slightly higher velocities in my BRX, I do equate it to burning charcoal in my bbl. Very dirty powder.

One of the best carbon removers is Slip 2000. Wet the bore with a patch, then wet a brush and let the bbl sit for 20 min. Then patch out. You will be amazed at what comes out of your bbl.

Bob

 

[tclaunch]

Get some Bore Tech, carbon remover and shoot whatever you want. That is kryptonite to carbon I assure.

 

[limbic]

a very hearty +1 on the boretech. It also eats up the copper. I quit the RL15 scene a while ago. above 90deg or so it starts to get squirly.

 

[AdamJ]

Is that boretech eliminator or do they have a specific carbon remover? I just started using boretech instead of Butch's, I sure wish I had all that time back I wasted with butch's.

 

[kjcpoint]

Boretech is a good product. I think that KG systems make the best combo of carbon remover (kg1) and copper remover (kg 12.) With the copper remover being water based there is no indication of copper on your patches.
3 patches of kg1 followed by brushing with kg12 makes cleaning a simple process.

Kyle

 

[ten]

I too feel that solvents, in particular copper removers, are largely snake oil.

Patches do come out blue but possibly this is only copper oxide. I have a discarded 6BR match barrel which has had 2700 rounds down it. Through the borescope there was a heavy copper build up about 4" foward of the chamber.

I tried Hoppes No9, Boretech, KG12 and Sweets but these failed to remove the copper. I let them soak in the bore overnight. The appearance of the copper was unchanged.

Vigorous scrubbing with KG2 may have reduced it slightly, but it took valve grinding paste to finally shift it!

The black which is visible for the first 10" or so was also removed by the valve grinding paste. I feel that this blackness is not powder fouling but the surface of the stainless steel which has been burnt.

My 2c worth.

Ten.

 

[tclaunch]

AdamJ, they do have a specific carbon remover. 4oz and 16oz bottles. Good luck with it.

 

[JRinCo]

R 15 is so filthy, that it may be the true main source for global warmning. If you have to use it, get some Wipe Out.

 

[BoydAllen]

Ten,
I get the feeling that you may not have been bore scoping your barrel throughout its life, but only after there seemed to be a problem. The black stuff that you uncovered was what is called hard carbon fouling, which is much tougher to remove than ordinary powder fouling. Its roughness is what started the copper fouling. Given the extent of your barrel's problem, I would agree that an abrasive was in order, but I will disagree with your choice. Valve lapping compound is usually silicon carbide particles, suspended in grease. For various reasons this is not the best abrasive to use in a barrel. For this use Iosso works well. You can fill up the bristles of a nylon bore brush, that will allow you to reverse the brush and work part of the barrel. The old standby JB bore cleaner is also something to try. Ultimately, the problem may be traced back to a couple of things. A high round count will typically result in roughening of the bore, in, and a few inches in front of the throat, which makes fouling harder to remove, due to its greater adherence to the rough surface. The other cause may be that your normal cleaning routine, was not adequate for the characteristics of the powder and interior finish of the barrel, allowing an accumulation over a large number of rounds, that was not removed by your normal cleaning. Once carbon fouling starts to build, it can be very hard to remove. The trick is to modify your cleaning procedure so that you are keeping up with the problem, while at the same time avoiding damage to the bore. One famous Benchrest shooter used to advocate the use of Iosso on a brush to remove carbon in the first 8-10 inches of the barrel. IMO this was needed because of the powder that he used. Other powder may not have required it. Even so, I have heard that he had been using Carb Out, a liquid carbon remover, with a bronze brush instead of the nylon brush that is mentioned in the directions. In any case, the trick is not to let the carbon accumulate, removing it with each cleaning, before it aggregates into something that is difficult to remove.

 

[str8 shooter]

I've been using the Bore Tech Eliminator for quite awhile. I have to say its the best stuff I've ever used in my opinion. I live close to where bore tech is located and I went there to buy some eliminator off them and talk about great service. I showed up and jesse (owner) showed me everything. I'd agree that their old rods from 5 years ago are crap but the new coating rods they have now is amazing. The coating they have now is like a powder coat. Very durable and chemicaly resistent. But all in all I HIGHLY recommend the eliminator!

 

[ten]

Boyd,

Thanks for that. Yes, you are right - I didn't monitor that barrel at all. Since having a bore scope I have made inspections from the running-in stage.

Do you think the hard carbon is a product of the burnt powder or a few microns of the steel buirning?

Ten.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

I've been using the Bore Tech Eliminator for quite awhile. I have to say its the best stuff I've ever used in my opinion. I live close to where bore tech is located and I went there to buy some eliminator off them and talk about great service. I showed up and jesse (owner) showed me everything. I'd agree that their old rods from 5 years ago are crap but the new coating rods they have now is amazing. The coating they have now is like a powder coat. Very durable and chemicaly resistent. But all in all I HIGHLY recommend the eliminator!

The only thing I've found better is Bore Techs straight Carbon remover and Cooper removing chemicals. Made after Eliminator

 

[Firefighter]

I attack carbon first, with Mercury Power Tune, then I attack the copper with Hopps copper remover with a little kroil mixed in, then one patch with alchol=barrel clean. I also use R-15 in my .223 and will use it in my new 6br Benchmark barrel comming soon.