Experience with defective scopes that I have to send back for repairs/replacements.How did you arrive at that?
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Experience with defective scopes that I have to send back for repairs/replacements.How did you arrive at that?
I agree with bedding the chassis, it's obvious looking at the photos the tang is rubbing hard on one side of the action and V block, clamp your barrel in the vice and your indicator on the fore end of your stock leave the rear crew tight and loosen the front screw a quarter turn and watch the indicator for movement of the stock I think you may be surprised at the result, this is the method I learned from Chet Brown the inventor of fiber glass stocks 30 years ago, it has served me well over the years.Bed the chassis and start from a good platform for load development.
If you start at jammed you cant mess up and go the wrong way nor over pressure itI start with a bedded rifle, and I do seating depth testing with a luke warm charge, then move on to powder. However, Dusty’s method of doing your powder work at jammed .010 is a good way as well.
H4831 would be better with 115s, H4350 or RL 16 are best in the 105 class, and they’re available almost daily now.
The chronograph needs to stay put away until you’re done or almost done with LD. There’s way too much emphasis on that these days. Good targets don’t lie.
You could always test your scope, but I think proper LD is all you need. I don’t see any tell tale signs of a scope gone awry.
Exactly right. More than one way to skin the cat, but starting jammed and backing up is always safest. Most of what I do, I’ve done before with the exact same setup, so I feel safe doing seating at a luke warm charge, but across the board, starting at jam has got to be safer.If you start at jammed you cant mess up and go the wrong way nor over pressure it
Would I have been better off testing at a greater distance?Looks like your gun holds the exact same elevation from 39-42gr of powder. Thats the most creedmoor thing ive ever seen
I think so. I also think you can space it out a bit to save some components and shoot 2 of each to get more dataWould I have been better off testing at a greater distance?
2 or 3 hundred yds maybe?I think so. I also think you can space it out a bit to save some components and shoot 2 of each to get more data
Id go to 200 so the wind doesnt cloud your results more. Even 2 shots of each at 100 would probably work. Skip .3gr in powder. Do the .1gr skip once you find a good spot you like2 or 3 hundred yds maybe?
I do not. But will be keeping an eye out for these.Do you have some sierra 107s or 105 hybrids? They are easy enough to tune for seating depth that you could use them to find out if you have real problems or just haven't found the right charge/bullet/ etc combo.
I used to have an engraver like that. Will have to pick one up. Thanks for the advice. This Tikka T3 uses a non traditional recoil lug setup. This Bravo chassis has a steel “lug” pressed(?) into it’s aluminum structure, that feels to be, a fairly precision fit to the cross slot in the action. But I imagine the fit can’t be perfect. I’m not sure when bedding, how to handle this recoil lug area. Any suggestions?Mr. Buffalo Bill
Marine Tex epoxy works great nice and thick stays pretty much in place, almost any 2-part epoxy that's thick kind of putty like will suffice don't use any of the quick type unless you're real fast and have everything prepared ahead of time or you will have a mess to clean up.
On aluminum bedding blocks and Chassis V blocks I use a small electric vibrating etching tool the kind you can mark or engrave on hard surfaces with, it works like a miniature jack hammer leaving tiny dimples over the entire surface to be bedded, once you get the hang of it you can prepare the bedding area in minutes.
I prefer to skim bed over the aluminum blocks unless I need thicker bedding for a specific purpose.
.005 movement in your bedding can cause groups like you shot in the photos, I would advise you to fix your gun then follow the loading and shooting advice from some darn good shooters on here, wind flags are a must, but you can get by with a ribbon tied on a surveyor's stake if that's what you have to work with.
Good shooting
Those kinds of recoil lugs can cause problems. Make sure the lug is not moving. As others have said, it may need bedding.I used to have an engraver like that. Will have to pick one up. Thanks for the advice. This Tikka T3 uses a non traditional recoil lug setup. This Bravo chassis has a steel “lug” pressed(?) into it’s aluminum structure, that feels to be, a fairly precision fit to the cross slot in the action. But I imagine the fit can’t be perfect. I’m not sure when bedding, how to handle this recoil lug area. Any suggestions?