Got my gear and started sizing brass

[clunker]

For those who don't already know, this is my first attempt at reloading, so forgive me if I have some stupid questions.

I finally got my press, dies, and other reloading gear. Very exciting. After making initial adjustments, I started practicing with some brass I don't intend to use. A few questions. The first four cases came out varying 0.005" between them, the next 6 were all the same. Is this normal? Seems like maybe with brand new dies that it takes a few before they become consistent. As a side note, I was impressed that 20 random once-fired Norma cases all measured exactly the same from the shoulder bump before sizing.

Next question. I now have the die set to reduce shoulder bump length by 0.002". Does that sound about right for a 6.5 Creedmoor bolt action?

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

I was impressed that 20 random once-fired Norma cases all measured exactly the same from the shoulder bump before sizing.
?

They should all be very much identical since they were fired in your chamber. That is one hell of an explosion inside that little piece of brass. That brass will expand (and bounce back) to the exact same place each time.

Next question. I now have the die set to reduce shoulder bump length by 0.002". Does that sound about right for a 6.5 Creedmoor bolt action?

If a bench gun I say .002' is perfect (ask others they will tell you .001" and/or .0015") but for a bolt action repeater (hunting type rifle) I like .003"+ ish. The last thing you want while hunting is hard bolt closing when you need to get a 2nd shot off quick.


Welcome to the reloading world. be wallet careful.... it's a slippery slope all down hill, and that wallet falls fast.

 

[Ranger007]

Welcome to the reloading world. be wallet careful.... it's a slippery slope all down hill, and that wallet falls fast.[/QUOTE]


I could not have said it better.

 

[clunker]

I am already very aware of the slippery dollar slope, but thanks for the word of warning. I still don't have a tumbler (or maybe an ultrasonic) or other equipment that make the job easier. Right now I only have one type of powder, one type of primer, one bullet I want to use for hunting, and one type of brass. The odds of getting this right the first time are next to nil, and Accubonds are expensive.

 

[K22]

Adjust the cam over to produce less shoulder set back. You should be measuring shoulder set back from a fired case in the the rifle you are loading for. Ideally you want about .001 to .002" of shoulder set back in a bolt rifle. Also dedicate a group of case solely to this rifle.

You can also obtain a qualitative indication by testing the amount of bolt resistance on a sized case. To do this more precisely remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt. Run the bolt a few times to get the resistance feels for empty chamber. Chamber a sized case - there should be a very slight resistance.

In my opinion, it's better to err on the side of less sizing than more provided the bolt will close without having to force it.

As cases hardened with repeated loadings and sizings you might have to adjust the amount of cam over to obtain the desired shoulder set back. I check my cases everything I reload them to verify adequate sizing.

On new cases (before firing) I run them through a full sizing die with zero cam over (no shoulder set back) just to straight necks and uniform the new cases.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Keep your die clean and don't "bump" new brass, may not need to move shoulders after the first(or 2nd ?) firing. I don't use the expander/decapper on anything .224 and larger. I have a universal decapping die and mandrel die for neck tension.

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

I still don't have a tumbler (or maybe an ultrasonic) or other equipment that make the job easier.

Stainless Steel tumbling is the best!!!!. Frankford Arsenal has a GREAT inexpensive one. Watch the sales (black Friday) and you can pick up one cheaper. The only thing you need to buy for it is Dawn dishwashing liquid and Lemishine if you like the cases bright and shiny.

$99 for the small one and $180 for the bigger one On Amazon right now.

As far as you only having 1 bullet, 1 powder, 1 primer.... that's fine.... ASSUMING they work well for that caliber.
Start LOW and work your way up.... This is how I do load development.

3 @ xx grains of powder
3 @ xx + .3 grains of powder
3 @ xx + .6 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 1.0 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 1.3 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 1.6 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 2.0 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 2.3 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 2.6 grains of powder

Shoot 3, then wait 10 mins (assuming you are shooting a thin barreled hunting rifle)
Repeat till done OR UNTIL YOU SEE SIGNS OF PRESSURE


Try to shoot all of them on 1 big piece of paper and keep your targets. You will want to reference them later.
KEEP GOOD NOTES!!!!! You need to know what works... but more importantly … what DOESNT WORK.

 

[Oso]

For those who don't already know, this is my first attempt at reloading, so forgive me if I have some stupid questions.

I finally got my press, dies, and other reloading gear. Very exciting. After making initial adjustments, I started practicing with some brass I don't intend to use. A few questions. The first four cases came out varying 0.005" between them, the next 6 were all the same. Is this normal? Seems like maybe with brand new dies that it takes a few before they become consistent. As a side note, I was impressed that 20 random once-fired Norma cases all measured exactly the same from the shoulder bump before sizing.

Your dies and locking nut may have settled as new o-ring compressed. There are a few possible ways this could happen.

 

[clunker]

Stainless Steel tumbling is the best!!!!. Frankford Arsenal has a GREAT inexpensive one. Watch the sales (black Friday) and you can pick up one cheaper. The only thing you need to buy for it is Dawn dishwashing liquid and Lemishine if you like the cases bright and shiny.

$99 for the small one and $180 for the bigger one On Amazon right now.

As far as you only having 1 bullet, 1 powder, 1 primer.... that's fine.... ASSUMING they work well for that caliber.
Start LOW and work your way up.... This is how I do load development.

3 @ xx grains of powder
3 @ xx + .3 grains of powder
3 @ xx + .6 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 1.0 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 1.3 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 1.6 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 2.0 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 2.3 grains of powder
3 @ xx + 2.6 grains of powder

Shoot 3, then wait 10 mins (assuming you are shooting a thin barreled hunting rifle)
Repeat till done OR UNTIL YOU SEE SIGNS OF PRESSURE


Try to shoot all of them on 1 big piece of paper and keep your targets. You will want to reference them later.
KEEP GOOD NOTES!!!!! You need to know what works... but more importantly … what DOESNT WORK.

Good info. Thanks.

What happens when you start changing seating depth? Doesn't that change pressure, and therefore, powder loads?

I did a ton of research before deciding on which powder, primers, and brass. For powder, H4350 seems to be a good choice for 6.5 CM with a long history of consistency and stability. Lapua brass also has a great reputation, and the small primer pocket for 6.5 CM was a selling point for me. Primers are a toss up, but I chose CCI BR4 to start. With bullets, I just have to hope that my rifle likes them. I plan to start with the lowest recommended grains of powder and start increasing from there. I like your 0.3 gr increases, so I might go with that.

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

With a hunting rifle feeding from a magazine, you are limited to OAL due to it having to fit in that magazine well. IMHO in a hunting gun, you don't need to be that particular. Yes, try to get the smallest groups you can, but don't sweat a 1" group at 100 yards... as long as you can make that gun shoot that way out to 500 yards (not saying you should hunt at that range... I don't know you and your capabilities).

I would find the load that shots best at 100 yards loading at SAMMI length, and play a little from there, but unless you want to feed them 1 at a time (which defeats the purpose of having a repeating hunting rifle), just stick with standard OAL.

 

[Rsadams]

1-2 for bolt , 3-4 for semi automatic.... But if it for hunting or defensive stuff a few more makes sure it chambers when needed.. When shooting at paper it's no big deal but a round not chambering when that big buck walks out ain't worth it... I use about 2.5 for bolt and 4 for automatic.... The auto is so hard on brass I am not really worried about it....

And to me yes it's normal for all the fired brass to not be the same... I trim everytime also , everything is personal preference...

Also yup bullet seating depth can/will effect pressure especially if you get a bullet touching or into the lands....

 

[clunker]

Stainless Steel tumbling is the best!!!!. Frankford Arsenal has a GREAT inexpensive one. Watch the sales (black Friday) and you can pick up one cheaper. The only thing you need to buy for it is Dawn dishwashing liquid and Lemishine if you like the cases bright and shiny.

$99 for the small one and $180 for the bigger one On Amazon right now

That's way less expensive than I was thinking. I thought most reloaders were moving toward ultrasonic. Anyone else have input on this?

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

That's way less expensive than I was thinking. I thought most reloaders were moving toward ultrasonic. Anyone else have input on this?

If you want an ultra sonic, I have one that I would be will to get rid of very cheap. I haven't used it in 5+ years.

 

[Iowa Fox]

I am already very aware of the slippery dollar slope, but thanks for the word of warning. I still don't have a tumbler (or maybe an ultrasonic) or other equipment that make the job easier. Right now I only have one type of powder, one type of primer, one bullet I want to use for hunting, and one type of brass. The odds of getting this right the first time are next to nil, and Accubonds are expensive.

I pretty much quit using my tumblers about 15 years ago. I just soak the brass in hot water and Lemi shine, rinse a couple times, dry and done. They come out nice & clean and plenty shiny enough for me. The easy way is always tuff enough.

 

[leclairk]

I'm having a hell of a time getting my bump to .002". I run the shell up, I get .0005". Turn the die down, get .003". Back out the die a tiny tiny bit, back to .0005". Back and forth I go. I've got a basic RCBS FL die, would a better quality die help? Others have recommended the Redding Competition shell holders.

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

I'm having a hell of a time getting my bump to .002". I run the shell up, I get .0005". Turn the die down, get .003". Back out the die a tiny tiny bit, back to .0005". Back and forth I go. I've got a basic RCBS FL die, would a better quality die help? Others have recommended the Redding Competition shell holders.

Try putting a shim under your die.

 

[JFrank]

I'm having a hell of a time getting my bump to .002". I run the shell up, I get .0005". Turn the die down, get .003". Back out the die a tiny tiny bit, back to .0005". Back and forth I go. I've got a basic RCBS FL die, would a better quality die help? Others have recommended the Redding Competition shell holders.

Try this, with the ram extended place a feeler gauge under the shell holder and take a measurement, select appropriate feeler blade and the adjust the die to touch.

 

[Fast14riot]

I'm having a hell of a time getting my bump to .002". I run the shell up, I get .0005". Turn the die down, get .003". Back out the die a tiny tiny bit, back to .0005". Back and forth I go. I've got a basic RCBS FL die, would a better quality die help? Others have recommended the Redding Competition shell holders.

How many times fired is this brass? If it's been sized and fired a few times, you can get variations like that. Also, how are you measuring shoulder bump? Sometimes the measuring tool can be the issue and not the die.

 

[clunker]

Next Question! Even with the set screw tightened firmly, the die still wobbles a tiny bit. Is this normal? I'm talking about the set screw on the press, not the lock ring.

 

[Fast14riot]

Next Question! Even with the set screw tightened firmly, the die still wobbles a tiny bit. Is this normal? I'm talking about the set screw on the press, not the lock ring.

I run o-rings and die bushings (Lock-N-Load quick change) and have no concerns about movement. It can allow the die to self align.