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Good digital caliper

I have an Igauging and have issues with it. I have tried 3x to contact Igauging without success. Went to Mitutoyo and am not looking back. But, I have a Lyman dial caliper that I purchased 20+ years ago that is very accurate, but not as accurate as the Mitutuyo. All have been checked on gage blocks.
 
Ever notice that most Machinists and Tool / Die pros don't use digitals ? But nobody asks why ? Take it for what it's worth . If it ain't broke , stop trying to fix it . You want a quality caliper , spend the money and buy a good one . Really get tired of hearing about shooters having no problem spending over a Grand on a scale , and then snivel about one hundred bucks for a quality caliper . Seriously ?
 
Really get tired of hearing about shooters having no problem spending over a Grand on a scale , and then snivel about one hundred bucks for a quality caliper . Seriously ?
I have a nice Starrett 120A I use when I really want a accurate reading that cannot be easily taken with a micrometer. That said I use the $10 Harbor freight digital most of the time say when checking seating depths or setting dies for shoulder setbacks. Why? Because it is fast and easy and having checked the el cheapo against the Starrett dozens of times I have never seen any appreciable difference when measuring to .001. If I need any further resolution than .001 I will use the dial caliper or a micrometer when using a micrometer is possible

As far as the cost of a Mitutoyo you can pick up one from MS Viking for $111. I will probably burn up at least that much in primers, powder, bullets and barrel wear this week. So to answer your question as to why I won't be buying one the answer is simple. I don't need one. Seriously

 
I have a nice Starrett 120A I use when I really want a accurate reading that cannot be easily taken with a micrometer. That said I use the $10 Harbor freight digital most of the time say when checking seating depths or setting dies for shoulder setbacks. Why? Because it is fast and easy and having checked the el cheapo against the Starrett dozens of times I have never seen any appreciable difference when measuring to .001. If I need any further resolution than .001 I will use the dial caliper or a micrometer when using a micrometer is possible

As far as the cost of a Mitutoyo you can pick up one from MS Viking for $111. I will probably burn up at least that much in primers, powder, bullets and barrel wear this week. So to answer your question as to why I won't be buying one the answer is simple. I don't need one. Seriously

And you weren't the one I was trying to make my point to . The one's who don't need them are because they either have a quality tool , or found a quality "off-brand" that's just as accurate and know how to properly use them . I was questioning the justification of a Grand for a scale , yet not being able to justify one tenth that cost for something equally important . That's all . It was more Rhetorical , than asked out-right .
 
And you weren't the one I was trying to make my point to . The one's who don't need them are because they either have a quality tool , or found a quality "off-brand" that's just as accurate and know how to properly use them . I was questioning the justification of a Grand for a scale , yet not being able to justify one tenth that cost for something equally important . That's all . It was more Rhetorical , than asked out-right .
point taken, and a good point at that. This is a expensive sport. In particular with the cost and scarcity of components the days. However I do question the need for always having the most expensive tools available. How many here will ever see any difference with shoulder or seating depth measured to .0005 ? I am a average middle of the pack F class shooter at this point and I certainly cannot at my level of expertise. Maybe the top .5% - 1% might be able to see a small difference in their groups but the other 99% of us will be better off spending the money on practice so we can make wind calls

The only place I really consider that depth of resolution necessary might be in neck wall thickness and no caliper is the correct tool for measuring that.
 
I bought my third electronic calipers last summer. I’m hard on these and tend to drop them or set something on them. The last one I dropped a tool right on the display and smashed it. I bought the Hornady brand one this time and I’m very happy with it.
 
the Mitutoyo IP67 are tough calipers, they shutoff after 18 minutes coolant proof, you can find them on ebay sometimes cheap, 80 to 100 bucks they will last a long time, always look at the back of a caliper for wear on the ID sticker if it's black and not scuffed and cheap, buy it quick very good cals imho
 
If you decide on a Starrett, make sure it is made in USA, some are made in China.
Or that was the situation when I bought one in 2017.
 
I've got several different digital calipers, all of which cost about $25 IIRC. They each have a different Hornady headspace gauge on the blade. Since I load all of my bullets at least .010" off the rifling and some at >.100" off, I don't think that a reading that may be 1 or 2 thousandths off matters much.

While some applications may benefit by extreme accuracy, the reloading that I do really doesn't need it.
 
You get what you pay for. Buy cheap calipers and they could as accurate as +/- .002”. Buy Mitutoyo and they will be +/-.0005” or less.
Last I checked they were $110 from msi-viking.com for authentic Mitutoyos. Really not bad at all.
 
Unless you plan on removing the battery while it's not in use, don't buy one of those cheap chinesium ones. You'll end up paying the cost of a Mitutoyo in batteries in about a year.
Mine doesn't eat batteries. They last more than a year and cost very little at Marcs.
 

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