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Going back to dry vibratory "tumbling"

garandman

Bolt Gun Bodacious
Based on overwhelming response in my prior post re: how BR shooters clean brass, I'm going back to dry tumbling with organic media. (Wet with steel pins got me to 0.2 - .04" @ 100y in 2 different calibers)

Question is.... corn cob or walnut and what if any polish / treatment?

Thanx.
 
I anneal with an AMP after I shoot a match, I tumble to keep the crud out of the annealer. If you aren't shooting much and not annealing then wiping off the case may be sufficient.

My rough plan is to rotate about 100 cases thru about 14 firings per case, anneal once every fourth firing and roughly be near the end of the barrels life. This is based on conversations with the barrel maker. Subject to change, of course. :)
 
Alot of guys here who've had good success dry tumble.

But yes....several recommended wiping off case with an alcohol soaked rag and doing a quick brush inside the neck.

Ask 100 ppl....get 50 different answers.

You might try dry tumbling with rice (medium grain size) and see if it produces results you like. I dry tumble with rice after annealing as it helps with reducing the seating pressure that the annealing induces due to the oxidation layer that's left on the inside of the neck.
 
I anneal with an AMP after I shoot a match, I tumble to keep the crud out of the annealer. If you aren't shooting much and not annealing then wiping off the case may be sufficient.

If you're using an AMP, the case doesn't touch anything (barring the case head), so what is there to contaminate?

To the OP: Depends on what you are trying to do: Corn cob polishes better, but is not very aggressive. Walnut is more aggressive, so will clean oxides and/or get more baked-on carbon off. Alternatives: short grain white rice (uncooked, duh - don't ask), buckwheat groats, bunch of other hard(ish) granular material that isn't real heavy. A teaspoon of automotive cutting wax in the media (or just liquid wax) will help shine things up and leave a layer of protection.
 
If you're using an AMP, the case doesn't touch anything (barring the case head), so what is there to contaminate?

To the OP: Depends on what you are trying to do: Corn cob polishes better, but is not very aggressive. Walnut is more aggressive, so will clean oxides and/or get more baked-on carbon off. Alternatives: short grain white rice (uncooked, duh - don't ask), buckwheat groats, bunch of other hard(ish) granular material that isn't real heavy. A teaspoon of automotive cutting wax in the media (or just liquid wax) will help shine things up and leave a layer of protection.
I still don't want crud in the AMP
 
AMP is way outta my budget. (I can be a cheapskate when I want to be :) ) I'm thinking Annealeeze
I agree, the AMP is expensive, I went with if because I didn't want to mess with flame. It is a personal choice, and I wouldn't want to pressure you. A lot of reloading is just that, personal choice. We find what works for us and we go with it and we modify it to suit our needs. I put up in my profile that I shoot F Open to give people some idea of what I am doing, there are some that are casual shooters that don't go to some of the lengths we go to to shoot well. I am really still learning, just finished my 3rd year of Competition, I am not in the same League as the You Tube Shooters, I am just happy when I don't finish last. I seek to improve. I have tumbled since the beginning, I don't find it as messy as wet tumbling, I just dump and sift then I am ready for the next step.
 
Started with media and a vibratory tumbler in the early 60's. Never changed nor saw a need to. (if it's not an improvement in the grouping I don't care)
I will mention, because of the RICE comments above, I found rice perfect for removing moly from bullets.(bought a bunch at a great price and I don't use moly)
However I throw it away when done because at least the rodents here seem to really like it.
 
I use lizard bedding from the pet store. It's finely ground walnut. It doesn't get stuck in my flash holes. When it's new, I run it with a dryer sheet or 2 to collect the dust. Then a splash of mineral spirits and cutting wax. Nu-finish or any type of car wax works. I've been using all my old waxes up in the tumbler since I've gone to a ceramic on the truck.

I will "recharge" the media with wax and/or a splash of mineral spirits every couple of times. After adding that stuff, I let it run without cases for 15-30mins.

To do the cases, I dump 50-100 in and goto bed. Guys complain it takes long. I don't care. I'm sleeping. Lol.


Works for me....



As far as annealing, if you're gunna buy an annealer and anneal, do it every firing before sizing. Never understood why guys don't do it every firing if they own the annealer. My goal is to keep everything consistent every firing. Same with trimming. I don't NEED to trim per specs. But I do it every time to keep every case as consistent as I can.

I use a bench source I got on here at a pretty good buy. Just didn't wanna spend the money on an AMP.
 
I feel
Alot of guys here who've had good success dry tumble.

But yes....several recommended wiping off case with an alcohol soaked rag and doing a quick brush inside the neck.

Ask 100 ppl....get 50 different answers.
My bullets seat much nicer and consistent with carbon left in the necks. You lose that when you “clean” the brass. And I Anneal every time. Not that this is about annealing, but I do for the sake of keeping everything consistent. Each time you shoot, brass will get harder and possibly change your tension each time to the range. I would think.
 
I tumble for one hour in crushed walnut. It does not affect
the carbon in the necks. I avoid using corn cob anymore.
Best place for walnut is your pet supply shops. It's used for
pet lizards. It's also a bit cheaper then buying at a gun shop.
 

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