Glass bed Remington 700 ADL

[Red Owl]

Should I remove wood behind (toward the buttplate) of the recoil lug? Some folks say the bedding compound (Devcon 10110) is stronger than the wood so remove 1/8" to 3/16" which seems like a lot. Others say don't remove any wood at all, let the lug rest against the wood. There seems to be a consensus on taping the front, sides, and bottom so okay on that, just confused about removing wood behind the lug.

 

[46and2]

I would remove up to 1/4" but leave a small portion of the original wood at the sides or bottom so that the action still sits in its original place so that the action screws will still be CENTERED in the action screw holes in the stock.
If the action screws touch the stock it could cause problems.

If you can accurately center the action screws with spacers or another method you could remove as much wood as you want.

 

[46and2]

Also, I use electrical tape to cover the bottom, sides, and front of the recoil lug. Don't forget Kiwi natural shoe polish on the tape as well as the action.

Wipe Kiwi on buff off, repeat.

 

[46and2]

If you stock doesn't have steel pillars I would suggest installing them while your at it.

 

[Red Owl]

The plan is to install the pillars. On the Remington I have the curved pillars to match the action. I figure the pillars regulate the top to bottom and the curves center the action side to side. I'll use fake bolt screws with tape- so they center in the pillar holes and push down until the action sets on the pillars. Wrap with surgical tubing (Where do you buy surgical tubing????) I've read that if you tape the barrel near the nose on the forestock that helps center the action. I might leave a couple of high spots at the rear of the action to also center it. I'm told to remove about 1/16" from areas to have the glass (I'll be using Devcon 10110) I have checkering tools and I read they work pretty good at cutting down 1/16" and then cut the "ridges" left from the checkering.
I am going to strip off the trigger, bolt stop, magazine, etc. so all I have is the action and fill in all the nooks and crannies with modeling clay. Any other suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

 

[46and2]

The plan is to install the pillars. On the Remington I have the curved pillars to match the action. I figure the pillars regulate the top to bottom and the curves center the action side to side. I'll use fake bolt screws with tape- so they center in the pillar holes and push down until the action sets on the pillars. Wrap with surgical tubing (Where do you buy surgical tubing????) I've read that if you tape the barrel near the nose on the forestock that helps center the action. I might leave a couple of high spots at the rear of the action to also center it. I'm told to remove about 1/16" from areas to have the glass (I'll be using Devcon 10110) I have checkering tools and I read they work pretty good at cutting down 1/16" and then cut the "ridges" left from the checkering.
I am going to strip off the trigger, bolt stop, magazine, etc. so all I have is the action and fill in all the nooks and crannies with modeling clay. Any other suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

Only other real suggestion would be that Kiwi natural shoe polish is the best release agent I've ever used. Rub on, buff till shiny and repeat once more ( to make sure you didn't miss anything.

 

[jepp2]

(Where do you buy surgical tubing????)

Brownells has it.

I started by watching this, then bought his DVD. I don't have the tools he has, but mine looks just as good (IMHO).
https://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Twist type bungee cords work well and pretty cheap.

 

[46and2]

I have always used Devcon 10110 until the last time. I decided to use Marine Tex and have to say it is easier mix and to use and supposedly stronger with less shrinkage.

The 2oz of Marine tex is plenty for one bedding job. The Devcon 1lb can would go bad before the next job. Seems like a waste.