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The Gempro 250 is a low cost way to measure powder to to better than a tenth of a grain. It has quirks which you have to work around. For example, it doesn't react to trickling nearly as well as you might hope, so you must develop a technique to overcome that flaw.
Having said that, I use my Gempro 250 for each and every competition load and every test load where I'm trying to eliminate any possible variation in powder charge because my RCBS Chargemaster is simply not accurate enough.
If you need (or think you need) a scale with .02 grains resolution, then I'd say go for it. A hundred bucks is a good price.
I just pick up the tray and set it back down after a trickle. It slows me down a bit, but not much, and is faster than waiting for the scale to pick up the difference.I was going to get one of these. What do you have to do to accommodate for the slow reading after trickling?
Thanks.
I was going to get one of these. What do you have to do to accommodate for the slow reading after trickling?
Thanks.
That's how I do it; however, this trick only works once or twice as you add or subtract a kernel or two to hit the exact target weight, or exact to .02gr anyway. If you fiddle with it too many times or for too long a time, you will find that the scale gets lost, so to speak. If you put the charge into the case and then set the empty pan on the scale, it may not go to zero or, if it does, it takes a while to do so. Then if you re-tare the scale and re-weigh the previous charge, you may find it off by a few hundredths of a grain or sometimes more. I'm not sure this is technically "drift", but it is definitely a potential problem. Perhaps a scale guru will chime in.The proper way to do this is to fine tune powder on the scale with a small powder spatula (ball powder) or a pair of tweezers (extrudes). After you add the powder, place the tip of the spatula/tweezers gently on the weighting pan so that it over scale slightly. Immediately take it off and the weight will stabilize and give you the proper reading. Done this way, the scale is as fast and accurate as any scale out there.
Mozella – I’ve never seen the scale “get lost” and I’ve used mine longer than probably anyone on this board (more than 5 years). The scale does not keep track of how many times you do this, all it knows is you have added weight and it goes and equilibrate and gives you the number.That's how I do it; however, this trick only works once or twice as you add or subtract a kernel or two to hit the exact target weight, or exact to .02gr anyway. If you fiddle with it too many times or for too long a time, you will find that the scale gets lost, so to speak. If you put the charge into the case and then set the empty pan on the scale, it may not go to zero or, if it does, it takes a while to do so. Then if you re-tare the scale and re-weigh the previous charge, you may find it off by a few hundredths of a grain or sometimes more. I'm not sure this is technically "drift", but it is definitely a potential problem. Perhaps a scale guru will chime in.
A RCBS Chargemaster comes in handy here because it often produces a load within a few kernels of your target. Consequently, correcting the charge is quick and easy because usually only a few kernels are required rather than genuine trickling.
So, assuming I'm going for the best precision, if I can't hit my target on the first or second fine correction, I charge the case, zero the scale, dump the charge onto the scale again, and reweigh to be sure.
Another technique to speed up things when you're making "good plinking" ammo, as opposed to competition ammo is to take the result from the RCBS Chargemaster, check it on the Gem Pro, and make a correction based on your experience. For example, with medium extruded powder where the sticks weigh about .02gr each and if you are .04 gr under or over target, just toss in or remove two kernels and charge the case without waiting for the Gem Pro to settle down. Use three kernels for a .06gr error and so on. Of course, outside that range, your "good plinking" ammo might turn into "fouling rounds"; you get the idea.
Bottom line: The Gem Pro is a good value, but you have to treat it like a high maintenance girlfriend with a nasty drug problem and a troubled childhood.
Mozella – I’ve never seen the scale “get lost” and I’ve used mine longer than probably anyone on this board (more than 5 years). The scale does not keep track of how many times you do this, all it knows is you have added weight and it goes and equilibrate and gives you the number.
My scale zeros in a second and only needs a re-tare maybe once in 5-6 weighting and this is only because it is off by 0.02 grains.
Mine usually returns to zero too but not always. As far as calibration, point calibration, yes. Linear, no because the manufacturer recommends doing a linear calibration only if the load cell is changed.That’s interesting since my usually return to zero after I weigh a charge. Do you do all the calibration – both linear and single point?
dont waste your money on a gempro ,I had one had to send it back they send me a new one . went thru this 3 times ,the gempro drifts more than the snowstorms in pa. buy a&d fx-120i and cry onesWhen I used a GemPro and I was within what I figured was 1-2 kernels of desired weight I would use some tweezers to add them. I would add the final powder with what I can best describe as a throwing motion of the powder into the pan. The Gempro would respond almost instantly.
Thanks for the additional info. Been busy out shooting today!Mine usually returns to zero too but not always. As far as calibration, point calibration, yes. Linear, no because the manufacturer recommends doing a linear calibration only if the load cell is changed.
But the problem isn't associated with calibration anyway. It has to do with the inability to properly measure dynamic changes in weight; the kind you get with trickling or charge correction.
Here's a review on the scale which points out the same defect I mentioned in my previous posts.
https://preciseshooter.com/blog/ScaleReduxPart3GemPro250.aspx