Galled barrel in action

[jimcasey01]

I am not as sharp as I think I am. I know better but stupid took over in my quest for expediency. I hand threaded a used barrel into a new action to be used as a blow out barrel, both SS, using no grease or anti-sieze. Barrel went in very easy, no tools needed, life is great, or so I thought. Went to remove the barrel a few hours later, and it was galled. Used Kroil and tried to remove it, no such luck. Used tools and action wrench with very minor success. Eventually came to a complete stop. Unless some one can offer me some magic advice, I will cut the barrel off this week, and use a boring bar to get near the threads. Then try a pick to remove the remainder of the barrel. I have swallowed my pride, and am asking for advice.

 

[Danny1788]

That’s how I would go about removing it

 

[gme]

try some heat, dont go crazy or the action will be damaged, but i'ts worked in the past

 

[Rustytigwire]

gentlemen we again have discovered cold fusion.
im sorry to hear your plight.
nickel impregnated teflon tape is magic on ss threads.
i doubt anyone has used it on a barrel though.
good luck with the extraction..
photos please?

 

[jimcasey01]

gentlemen we again have discovered cold fusion.
im sorry to hear your plight.
nickel impregnated teflon tape is magic on ss threads.
i doubt anyone has used it on a barrel though.
good luck with the extraction..
photos please?

I worked as a machinist through out the 80's and 90's. I worked almost exclusively with SS in it's many varieties and aluminum. I am somewhat knowledgeable about galling, but obviously not enough.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Bore it out before you gall it anymore. At least you have the means to do it and smart enough to stop when it happened

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I have gotten galled parts apart without farther damage using this method. Warm the joint with a propane torch, just enough to burn you not change the steel color, drip moly d tapping fluid in the the threads and give it a little time to pull into the joint. Work the joint slowly and you will feel how its going. If it feels like tearing stop and cut and bore like you planned. But if it loosens up and feels smooth you got lucky.

 

[agr516]

I am no gunsmith but recently got a rusty fitting out of an exhaust manifold with a method similar to what Alex describes. I heated the manifold (not the fitting) with a Mapp torch and then touched the base of the fitting with a birthday candle. The hot manifold sucked the melted wax into the threads and I was able to back out a fitting that I was certain was seized for good.

 

[DaveTooley]

Just guess but I think you're past the point of Macgyver ing a solution. I've been using that word a lot this morning. Power is out from the hurricane and if it doesn't come back on in a couple of hours I need run jumpers to get the AC and a few other circuits running off the generator. Probably too early yet for a Bloody Mary.

 

[rjtfroggy]

Probably too early yet for a Bloody Mary.[/QUOTE]

What is the saying it's 5 a clock somewhere. Never too early, hell you can't do anything anyway, no power you have to use up the tomatoe juice before it spoils,

 

[okie]

victor wrench...

 

[mike a]

Thanx for sharing this. Saved me from learning the hard way. Mike

 

[ridgeway]

For future...take a close look at the lead of the thread. I've seen many times that a tenon lead thread never gets any bench work on it, meaning the sharp crest never gets filed down and burrs taken care of. This is the culprit on many galled threads. Best thing to do is blunt start them, but takes time to do it right...

 

[rockhound78]

Just a far out thought, but if you are going to trash the barrel, could you just cut part of it off and get an aluminum foil pan and put the action/barrel stub in it and cover with a mix of ATF and synthetic 0w-20 motor oil (50/50) and let set for a few days before you try and remove it again.

 

[243Lapua]

Galling can happen even by the smallest of steel shaving left on a thread. Tell me how I know. I had to cut the barrel with a hacksaw right at the threads then slowly start cutting the barrel that was stuck with a boring bar cutter. And almost before reaching the action threads I started chipping away carefully with a sharp punch. Good luck.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Just a far out thought, but if you are going to trash the barrel, could you just cut part of it off and get an aluminum foil pan and put the action/barrel stub in it and cover with a mix of ATF and synthetic 0w-20 motor oil (50/50) and let set for a few days before you try and remove it again.

Its not really the same as corrosion, its like the 2 pieces friction weld together, so when galled for real no amount of oil will help nor will heating.

 

[rockhound78]

I was just thinking that if after soaking for a few days, lubricant would make it to all the threads and then when he tried to remove the barrel, if it moved, then there would be lubricant there to prevent further galling when he was trying to remove the barrel. I wasn't thinking about a corrosion issue

 

[wedgy]

Be sure to turn it both ways with Alex's method as this will allow the lube to disperse.
Good luck !

 

[Ken]

I want to know how it worked out?

 

[expiper]

I hope that the readers of this thread learn about "threads",,,I never assemble anyting withour nickle never seize on the threads,,,Roger