full length sizing and bumping the shoulder back ?

[mensajd]

Does everyone use the Redding shell holders to bump back .002?

I find them very handy and easy-to-use, but they aren't necessary. The necessary part is to have a comparator so that you can measure the nominal datum to base distance of your fired cases and your sized cases. You can use shims or back out the die or employ other methods to adjust the amount of sizing. I bump .001" for bolt guns and .003" for ARs and haven't had any issues.

 

[Bill K]

I will

I have some 223 ammo that I loaded for my AR and when I tried to shoot them in my Tikka T3x 223 they chamber hard or not at all. The 223 cases fired in my AR needed to have he shoulder bumped back another 2 thousands to chamber in my Tikka. Does that set the shoulder back too far to shoot the in my AR ? Does the AR head space off the shoulder ?

You need to get a small base FL die and size the cases fired in your AR with it, so they will fit into your other rifles chambers, even the cases fired in your AR should be sized in it so they will function in the AR also. Just a factor with cases fired in any AR 15 or AR 10 action.

 

[Field_2_Fork]

Can you explain what clickers are. I've seen this term a number of times now, not sure what it means.

I recently bought a Cooper 6.5-284 (used), 1 range trip with new Lapua brass so far, when opening the bolt after firing it was sticky at the very top of the throw. Is this a clicker? If so what is the issue, this was virgin brass.
Thanks.

 

[RegionRat]

I haven't noticed any clickers, just the bolt closing hard.When I first started loading for the bolt gun I had to turn the sizing die a little further down. Those load right now, chamber easy and no clicks. Now when I want to load for my AR do I have to readjust the die back up for proper head space in the Ar ?

Yes, you will need to make sure that the AR brass is bumped a little more than the difference you used on your bolt gun in order to stay away from problems with chambering reliability.

If for example it took on the order of 0.0005” to 0.002” to get your bolt action to close smoothly, the AR will want about 0.002” to 0.004” to make sure the bolt will always close. So you will still need to know your shoulder datum length and work from there.

In theory, the two types of actions shouldn’t require any different sizing, but semi autos are a little harder on brass so you need more margin and if the brass is too tight you will eventually get statistical failures.

Also, your inspection process for semi-autos is more critical and the trimming and head separation schedule is also higher.

 

[RegionRat]

Can you explain what clickers are. I've seen this term a number of times now, not sure what it means.

I recently bought a Cooper 6.5-284 (used), 1 range trip with new Lapua brass so far, when opening the bolt after firing it was sticky at the very top of the throw. Is this a clicker? If so what is the issue, this was virgin brass.
Thanks.

Yes, that extra torque at the top of the bolt opening that sticks and then breaks free is the dreaded click. It really disturbs the shot string flow when it moves the gun around so hard on the rests. There are a few ways you can get a clicker, one to eliminate up front is an over pressure load that sticks the case with body and head expansion. Another is a chambering defect, but these are not common. A third is a sizing process problem where the case head can stick without even being fired. I’m probably forgetting a few other ways, but others will come along and chime in.

 

[BoydAllen]

Speaking of bolt action rifles, the only reason to bump back a shoulder is that for a particular rifle the case requires it to create a little clearance from shoulder to head. It usually takes more than one firing with a reasonably stout load for a case to become tight at the shoulder, which is why I recommend that shooters set their dies to duplicate the head to shoulder dimension of a once fired case, and then try it in the rifle, before doing any bumping. I have also created artificially tight cases from once fired so that I could determine just how much clearance I had as I adjusted the die in several steps. All of this is predicated on the die being small enough to reduce the diameter of the case body from its as fired dimensions. This should be verified by actual measurement, which is surprisingly uncommon, even among experienced shooters.

 

[Martin52]

Can you explain what clickers are. I've seen this term a number of times now, not sure what it means.

I recently bought a Cooper 6.5-284 (used), 1 range trip with new Lapua brass so far, when opening the bolt after firing it was sticky at the very top of the throw. Is this a clicker? If so what is the issue, this was virgin brass.
Thanks.

This might help, full credit to Alex Wheeler.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/clickers.4009702/#post-37825144

 

[rebs]

Thank you guys for all the help, I appreciate it

 

[cw308]

Using a full length die with the standard shellholders , setting up the die to make full contact with the shellholder will size your brass to fit any chamber .bumping back the shoulder .003 to .004. Fine tuning your sized cases of fit a chamber of each rifle takes a little more adjustments and brass should be separated for each rifle. If your not worried about case life then size as the directions read. Will feed like store bought ammo.

 

[Willie]

The PMA micro die adjuster is the best way to get the exact bump I want.

The downside is they're not cheap. Cost me a small fortune to put one on every FL sizing die, but they're addictive. Like them far more than the .002" holder sets.

 

[Bc'z]

Try a set of feeler gauges.
It pays to throw a set of calipers on feeler gauge just to confirm thickness.
I have a couple that are .0005 thinner than number printed.

 

[Bc'z]

Which one is correct?

I'm going with the calipers being correct.
Measured with Mitutoyo and a generic set I purchased from Matco tools.
I use the Mitutoyo for my case comparitor also to achieve my datum measurements.
All things being dependent upon consistent measurements with same measuring device I'd say the feeler gauge is off .0005.

 

[mike a]

Whidden click adjustable die. Seems to me it could be used for multiple chambers. Chamber 1 is set at Y. A couple clicks to setting X and your ready for chamber #2. Just don’t get them bassakwards.

 

[cw308]

Reloading is a simple process , the problems come into play when chembers are out of spec or making a simple process so technical. I must be lucky or maybe the calibers I reload . 308 , 223 & 45ACP. The press is a single stage RCBS Rockchucker , dies and shellholders.

Going through all the steps in prepping , adjustments and following load data I never had a problem in sizing and seating . From cleaning , priming , sizing , powder and seating. Once you find a combination that shoots accurately the real problem is on the shooter.

 

[Sundown]

I use a Whidden chamber gauge on my calipers to register new brass, fired brass and sized brass to see where I'm at. Use what ever you want just so it's the same one. Attached is a form I made for registering dimensions of my brass.