Forster Co-Ax question

[johara1]

I did think of that this morning and forgot to mention it. I am using Hornady lock rings. I don't think the lock ring is the issue or the die would measure out of square to the frame. It doesn't appear to do that.

Doesn't work with Hornady, due to the flats on the sides…… jim

 

[savagedasher]

I did think of that this morning and forgot to mention it. I am using Hornady lock rings. I don't think the lock ring is the issue or the die would measure out of square to the frame. It doesn't appear to do that.

No they don't work . Larry

 

[GunAddict]

Doesn't work with Hornady, due to the flats on the sides…… jim

I placed the flats in the front and the back. This means that the back is the only place where the forster lock rings would have material and the hornady wouldn't is the back behind the die. Also, in the gear review on this site, the hornady rings are recommended.

 

[ericbc7]

The Hornady rings work well with the co-ax.

 

[savagedasher]

My Hornady rings don't lock in .Larry

 

[505 reloader]

I replaced all my Forster die rings with Hornady rings, they just have a better feel to them. I also have the 2nd screw on my B3 and have no clue what its for, I'm calling Forster in the morning.

 

[johara1]

In the first place, Hornady rings are of a different diameter and thickness. They can work, but not right, precision reloading and being .050 smaller diameter sure doesn't lend it's self accuracy. You try to hold a .0001 on neck wall thickness and turn around and say centered within .050 is good enough. Get the right rings on your dies and be done with it….jim

 

[GunAddict]

In the first place, Hornady rings are of a different diameter and thickness. They can work, but not right, precision reloading and being .050 smaller diameter sure doesn't lend it's self accuracy. You try to hold a .0001 on neck wall thickness and turn around and say centered within .050 is good enough. Get the right rings on your dies and be done with it….jim

Correct me if I am wrong, because I am quite new to reloading, much less precision reloading. I was always under the impression that one of the selling points of the Co-Ax was that everything free floats, case as well as dies. I remember someone saying the if you cant make sure everything is square, let it float. Wouldn't the hornady rings lend themselves to float?

 

[IPSCNUT]

Some say Hornady rings will work. Some say they will not.
I'm confused!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[505 reloader]

Had some time to kill so I took all the different brands of rings I had (Lee-Forster-Pacific-Rcbs-Hornady-Lyman-Redding-Hollywood) used my Forster 22-250 neck die and 3 pieces of Win Brass and guess what absolutely no difference!! So my conclusion is it really doesn't matter who's rings you use as long as they don't bind the die or prevent it from free floating.

 

[johara1]

I may be beating a dead horse, it will work but not the way it was intended. To get something to line up that far out is ridiculous…. Why are you so reluctant to use the right locking ring? You wanted the answer and you got it….. what you do is up to you……… jim

 

[GunAddict]

I may be beating a dead horse, it will work but not the way it was intended. To get something to line up that far out is ridiculous…. Why are you so reluctant to use the right locking ring? You wanted the answer and you got it….. what you do is up to you……… jim

I am not reluctant to use the Forster lock rings, I just don't currently have any. When I bought rings, I bought the Hornady based on the gear review on this site as well as several other sources. I'm not saying the Hornady are better than the Forester, they are just what I have. I still don't think the rings are the issue I'm dealing with. Cause if the Forster rings are a larger diameter, the die would even be farther forward, thus increasing my misalignment.

I'm really not trying to be contradictory. I've just always found I can learn things by asking questions from people who know more than me. I've contacted Forster and will post what they say.

 

[sundance]

I read somewhere that Forester wants you to use their aluminum lock rings instead of the factory die steel rings so the slot where the ring goes wouldn't wear out with the aluminum rings but would with the steel rings. Anyone else hear that or are the voices in my head acting up again?

 

[Comrade Terry]

I read somewhere that Forester wants you to use their aluminum lock rings instead of the factory die steel rings so the slot where the ring goes wouldn't wear out with the aluminum rings but would with the steel rings. Anyone else hear that or are the voices in my head acting up again?

Yes, I have read that. I think it was in the Forster literature that came with my co-ax.

 

[505 reloader]

Ok all, Here is the skinny on the die ring topic! I just got off the phone with "Scott" at Forster.

1. Any die ring will work correctly as long as it sits within the ring channel evenly and does not hamper the free floating ability of the die. There are rings out there that simply wont fit in the channel (Scott did not elaborate as to specifically which ones).

2. The "Forster" die rings are made of hardened aluminum but soft enough that they will not wear out the ring channel which of course could cause problems.

3. Hornady rings will perform the same as Forster rings but the Hornady rings are made of a harder material thus may damage the ring channel.

I like the feel of the Hornady rings yet I think I will switch back to the Forster rings solely on the fact that I do not wish to damage my much beloved press.

Ps. Scott said that on some models of the older Bonanza made co-ax Press they did not have a pressure plate under the jaws which would wear and cause shell to die alignment issues.

 

[LHSmith]

Correct me if I am wrong, because I am quite new to reloading, much less precision reloading. I was always under the impression that one of the selling points of the Co-Ax was that everything free floats, case as well as dies. I remember someone saying the if you cant make sure everything is square, let it float. Wouldn't the hornady rings lend themselves to float?

The true story is that any single stage press (at those I am aware of) can be made to float the case as well as the die through the use of simple O-rings. Little by little the design deficiencies of the Coax come to light in these threads.

 

[johara1]

I bought a used Forster Co-Ax press several years ago by accident. On a side note, be careful when bidding in an auction on your phone while not really paying attention. Adding and extra number makes it more likely for you to be the winner. I had wanted one, but I just payed a little more for one with a broken frame than I had hoped. One of the mounting holes was missing. I sent to Forester and had the frame casting replaced.

So I finally got around to using it. I love the ease of die changes. One thing that I started to notice is that the case mouth occasionally was hitting the expander ball on the way down. I had never had this happen with my Rockchucker. As it started happening more, I investigated. I noticed that my new sizing die had a bent decapping rod. The manufacturer is sending me a new one. I also noticed that each case is entering the die leaning to the rear. Since everything on the co-ax is free floating, it rights itself. Should I not worry about it since it is free floated. I am guessing that it shouldn't be an issue once I get the straight decapping rod. It probably was just the combination of the rod bent to the back as well as the case leaning to the back. Ill have to try with the new rod.

Can anyone tell me what the pointed screw on the front side of the press does? The rear one is the jaw opening screw. I can't see that the front one does anything though.

Reread what i said Hornaday will work but the smaller diameter will let it what you stated above happen. The smaller diameter lets it float too much, simple. You can put a smaller wheel on your car as long as the bolt pattern will fit a 15" will turn same as the other three 18" wheels but is not right. This is what happens with the smaller diameter ring you hit the flash hole and the case is ruined………. nick the case mouth the case is ruined for any accuracy intended purpose. Spray and pray it doesn't matter………. jim

 

[Cujo]

Little by little the design deficiencies of the Coax come to light in these threads.

The lock rings are a non-issue. Use the Forster aluminum lock rings. Die changes are as simple as sliding it in and sliding it out.

The only design deficiency that I see, if you can call it that, is the limited clearance between the yoke. This doesn't allow you to use something like a Redding Instant Indicator or the catch bottle for a Redding GRX push-through die. Unless you intend to use those, you'll be extremely satisfied with the Coax.

It's the one press that I wouldn't want to do without in my reloading room.

 

[LHSmith]

The lock rings are a non-issue. Use the Forster aluminum lock rings. Die changes are as simple as sliding it in and sliding it out.

The only design deficiency that I see, if you can call it that, is the limited clearance between the yoke. This doesn't allow you to use something like a Redding Instant Indicator or the catch bottle for a Redding GRX push-through die. Unless you intend to use those, you'll be extremely satisfied with the Coax.

It's the one press that I wouldn't want to do without in my reloading room.

Also won't permit use of die shims or the PMA micro die adjuster, forcing you to use the shell holder adapter and buy $50 set of Redding comp s/h's which are case head specific and I am assuming you loose the floating ability of the case.

 

[kountryboy2]

Also won't permit use of die shims or the PMA micro die adjuster, forcing you to use the shell holder adapter and buy $50 set of Redding comp s/h's which are case head specific and I am assuming you loose the floating ability of the case.

I don't have a problem using shims under the lock ring on my co ax. I refuse to use shell holders,that what drew me to the co ax. No shell holders.