I still haven'thear from the moderator. So I'm going to post the article here. If hedoesn't think it is appropriate I'm sure he will get rid of it. I tried to include plenty of pictures.
Let me say that I’m a tinkerer by nature. I have seen the electric motor driven case turners for quite a while. But it never made much since for me to buy something just to turn case necks with. Well I saw that a vendor introduced an electric motor driven device that has a drill chuck on the end. Now this caught my attention.
So being the do-it-yourselfer that I am I figured I could do this for myself. I began searching for the correct RPM and Torque motor to fit my needs. I found what I was looking for here http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007081802090846&item=5-1628&catname= .
The product description is exactly what I had been looking for. A motor with 115 RPM and 40 in/lb of torque. The fact that it could be made to turn clockwise or counter clockwise was just what the doctor ordered. These are new units according to the vendor. They have some paint missing but if you can look past that you should be quite happy. So I placed an order for 1 unit. Total shipped was around $105. I was away at work when it arrived at the house.
Once I got home I looked at the Bodine motor assembly and decided I didn’t like the capacitor on the same side I was going to be doing work on. Now if the capacitor location doesn’t bother you then you can skip down to the making up of the coupling.
Since the capacitor location bothered me this is what I did. I took the cooling fan cover off the motor. I then pried off the triangle shaped fan retainer washer. Next off came the fan itself. Holding the fan blades I held the motor 1†off of my work table. I then struck the shaft in the middle of the fan with a dead blow hammer a few times. Once I had enough clearance under the blades I pried the fan blade assembly off the motor. I then proceeded to loosen the 4 screws that hold the front and back of the motor together. Once these were undone I slid off the back of the motor. As well as the main motor housing.
Turned it around so that the capacitor was in the rear away from the work area and reattached the parts in the same order I had taken them off.
Then it was off to the local pawn shop. I was looking for a drill with a ½†keyless chuck at the cheapest price possible. I found a drill in very good shape for $11.95 out the door. This took care of 2 of my needs. The keyless chuck and a power cord.
Got to the house and took out the screws holding the drill body housing halves together. I then removed the drill chuck assembly from the drill body.
This piece consisted of the keyless chuck, shaft, drive gear and bearing. I placed the drill chuck assembly in my vice and proceeded to cut the gear and bearing from the shaft. I measured the shaft at ½â€. The output shaft from the Bodine gear motor assembly measure 5/8â€. So knowing this I headed to Lowe’s. There I picked up a gray plastic switch box, switch, 5/8†drill bit, 4 ¼â€-20 set screws, a ½†ID 5/8†OD steel spacer and a 5/8-11 Coupling Nut.
Once back in my shop I chucked the 5/8†drill bit in the Mini-Mill chuck. This same operation can easily be performed with just a drill press and a vice to hold the work piece in place. I drilled the threads out of the 5/8-11 coupling nut. This gave me an ID just a hair bigger than the Bodine shaft. I then drilled and tapped the 5/8†coupling for,2) ¼†set screws. One on each end of the coupling. Next I placed the ½†ID steel spacer inside the coupling nut halfway. Then using one of the holes already in the coupling nut I drilled a hole through the steel spacer. I ran the tap back through the previous hole in the coupling nut. This way when I placed the Keyless chuck shaft assembly in the steel spacer, I can tighten the set screw and lock the coupling nut, steel spacer and chuck shaft together.
I slipped this assembly onto the Bodine shaft and tightened down the set screw I had tapped on the Bodine side of the coupling nut.
Next came the wiring. A wiring diagram can be found here http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007081802090846&item=5-1628&catname= As it came, the motor was configured to turn clock wise. So I swapped a wire around per the diagram and had a counter clockwise drive motor assembly. For this motor as you can see in the picture. The brown and blue wires should be on the same side. And the black wire should be by itself. This is the way my motors wiring diagram said it should be.
I was so excited that I chucked a 260 Rem case up and turned the neck. The last thing was to get a nice piece of ¾†Birch plywood to use for the base. For my needs I found that 9â€x 18†is perfect. The wife and kids wanted in on the project so they sanded and finished the wood for me. I used,4) ¼†x 1 ½†carriage bolts to secure the motor to the base.
Now granted my keyless chuck does wobble just a little. About the same as using a hand drill or cordless screwdriver to do these operations. So next time I visit my smith I will ask him to take a scrap of barrel about 3†long and drill ½ for 5/8†and the other half for ½â€. This way with him doing it on his lathe there should be no more wobble on my motor assembly once reassembled.
What I did can be done by anyone who professes to be a tinkerer. Now some may ask why a ½†chuck? Using that size I don’t need a case holder for 6 BR, 260 Rem, 308, 223, etc. The cases fit in the keyless chuck quite nicely. And it also holds a myriad of case prep tools. But it also allows one to use a case holder, such as a K&M or Sinclair.
Such as primer pocket uniformer, flash hole uniformer, case neck brushes, etc.
So for those who have that do it yourself spirit. For around $150 depending on what parts you may already have on hand. You can make your own. Hope ya’ll find this helpful in doing your own.
Stephen
