BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
On the bolt handle jump:
What you are probably seeing is the cocking piece hitting one side of the radius at the bottom of the cocking cam cut, in the back of the bolt body. If you pick up the bolt handle just a little and retest you may notice a difference. Typically this does not come into play when firing a live cartridge because the firing pin does not fall as far, because the primer stops it short of full extension beyond the bolt face. Sometimes cam notches are cut, or bolt handles attached, so that the non cocking side is too close to the side of the cocking piece. The side of the cocking piece will rub as it falls, and/or the nose of the cocking piece will hit one side of the radius at the bottom of the cut, when the rifle is dry fired with an empty chamber. I have seen articles about putting a shim in the bottom of the handle notch in the action body to remedy this, but before I did that I would make sure that there really is a problem when firing a live round.
What you are probably seeing is the cocking piece hitting one side of the radius at the bottom of the cocking cam cut, in the back of the bolt body. If you pick up the bolt handle just a little and retest you may notice a difference. Typically this does not come into play when firing a live cartridge because the firing pin does not fall as far, because the primer stops it short of full extension beyond the bolt face. Sometimes cam notches are cut, or bolt handles attached, so that the non cocking side is too close to the side of the cocking piece. The side of the cocking piece will rub as it falls, and/or the nose of the cocking piece will hit one side of the radius at the bottom of the cut, when the rifle is dry fired with an empty chamber. I have seen articles about putting a shim in the bottom of the handle notch in the action body to remedy this, but before I did that I would make sure that there really is a problem when firing a live round.