Flitz Bore cleaner
- Thread starter cwebster
- Start date
It works VERY well for me and has done so for all the various powders I've used in my rifles. The technique that's worked best for me is wrapping a patch around a brush and soak the patch with the Flitz, then several full length strokes in the bore (maybe up to 10 strokes) and copper and carbon are gone. Sometimes that doesn't get all the carbon ring out so easily after a heavy build up so I take a the heavy duty blue iosso nylon brush with iosso to more easily takes care of that.
So, yes. . . it'd be worthwhile to at least try it.
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
I average ~ 300 rounds [223] a week.
For the past month I have been using Flitz [the bore cleaner] on a Tipton nylon brush.
After each range session, I've been first removing the soft/loose carbon with a bore solvent and bronze brush.
Then start with the Flitz. I'm simply dipping the brush into the bottle to cover the brush with Flitz.
15 strokes, dip, 15 strokes and a third time. [the reason for dipping into the bottle after 15 strokes is I've noticed that's about the time the Flitz no longer appears on the outside of the brush].
FYI. I'm using the same nylon brush.
It takes a bunch of dry patches to get some remaining carbon in the corners where lands meet grooves [I suspect the Flitz/brush has softened up some of the hard carbon].
Borescope shows almost all of the carbon on the lands and grooves is gone - including where the lands meet the grooves.
Next time, I'm thinking to add a couple more dip/15 strokes to see if it reduces the number of patches needed.
Update 4/25: Last range session was 123 shots - so about almost double the average. I did use 5 'cycles' of dipping he brush into Flitz and stroking 15 times. After flushing with bore solvent, it took about 1/3 the number of dry patches to get the remaining loose stuff from the throat and the corners of the land/grooves.
Notes:
Be aware that a lot of thick, black liquid comes out he muzzle with the first patch pushed through after using Flitz.
I am dry patching only until the black on the patch is more like a smudge vs clear, black streaks.
For the past month I have been using Flitz [the bore cleaner] on a Tipton nylon brush.
After each range session, I've been first removing the soft/loose carbon with a bore solvent and bronze brush.
Then start with the Flitz. I'm simply dipping the brush into the bottle to cover the brush with Flitz.
15 strokes, dip, 15 strokes and a third time. [the reason for dipping into the bottle after 15 strokes is I've noticed that's about the time the Flitz no longer appears on the outside of the brush].
FYI. I'm using the same nylon brush.
It takes a bunch of dry patches to get some remaining carbon in the corners where lands meet grooves [I suspect the Flitz/brush has softened up some of the hard carbon].
Borescope shows almost all of the carbon on the lands and grooves is gone - including where the lands meet the grooves.
Next time, I'm thinking to add a couple more dip/15 strokes to see if it reduces the number of patches needed.
Update 4/25: Last range session was 123 shots - so about almost double the average. I did use 5 'cycles' of dipping he brush into Flitz and stroking 15 times. After flushing with bore solvent, it took about 1/3 the number of dry patches to get the remaining loose stuff from the throat and the corners of the land/grooves.
Notes:
Be aware that a lot of thick, black liquid comes out he muzzle with the first patch pushed through after using Flitz.
I am dry patching only until the black on the patch is more like a smudge vs clear, black streaks.
Last edited:
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