FL sizing die notpushing sholders back far enough

[masterblaster1]

My 2 308 bolt guns both have " match" chambers, they always been a bit snug with FL sized rounds. I use a lee FL sizing die as well as a RCBS SB X die with in my lee classic press. Using the RCBS lee shell holders and I can do is squeeze them down my 1 - 2 though, I would like to get a thou or two more squeeze on the head space. Measure using the hornady head space gauge is 1.621, the most I can squeeze it back is to 1.619. The shell holder is contacting the bottom of the die as firmas I can get it.

Do I need to order custom dies? or is there another solution?

 

[fredhorace77]

Grind a couple thousandths off of the shell holder or order the adjustable redding shell holder kit. grinding is the cheapest fastest route. redding adjustable shell holders is the more expensive and more accurate route.

 

[LHSmith]

The Redding Competition S/H's start at .125" (standard thickness) and get thicker by .002" increments......I believe his only option is grind the S/H or the die......in either case the shortened item should be marked in case it is used for other chambers.

 

[jr600yd]

Turn the die down into the press another 1/8 turn. Yup I know, the die touches the shell holder. Turn it down anyway it'll work.

 

[masterblaster1]

I turned the die in as much as it would go, still no movement back, ground down the S/H and it fixed the issue, thanks Gents.

One follow up, I have a Co Ax press on the way and it uses a different shell holder system, will I have to order custom dies for it or take a few though off my current dies?

 

[Ohio1]

Does your press cam over after you screww the die down? If not, screww it another 1/8th turn?

Steve

 

[LHSmith]

Order the Co-Ax accessory that allows you to use a std. S/H

 

[Erik Cortina]

Don't need to buy anything for the Co-Ax, your dies will work. With the Co-Ax, you will no longer need shell holders, the press has a jaw system that grips the case better than a shell holder, and it is universal, so it will fit many different brass sizes. You will like it.

 

[masterblaster1]

I understand that Eric, I am wondering if I can push the shell up further into the die than if I use a standard shell holder.

 

[jonbearman]

Do you anneal your brass by chance? It could be spring back if they have been shot enough to harden them.

 

[eww1350]

Have a machine shop cut about .010" to .015" off the base of the die and it will work in any press or shell holder...easy to do...a friend with a lathe can do it for you...use a carbide cutting tool and headstock speed about 300-400 rpm...



Eddie in Texas

 

[coonhunter70]

Take a file like the one you sharpen your mower blades with lay it on your work bench then work your inexpensive lee shell holder back and forth across it and keep rotating it so that you don't remove too much off of one side. Do this until you have removed a couple thousandths off of it or however much you want to remove. Piece-o-Cake

 

[bigedp51]

Take a file like the one you sharpen your mower blades with lay it on your work bench then work your inexpensive lee shell holder back and forth across it and keep rotating it so that you don't remove too much off of one side. Do this until you have removed a couple thousandths off of it or however much you want to remove. Piece-o-Cake

Save the files for the lawn mower blade, all you need is a piece of glass cut to the size of a sheet of wet and dry sandpaper. The hardware stores sell this paper from 400 to 1000 grit and all you need to do is lap the shell holder in a figure eight motion. Wet the back of the paper and the glass and this will hold the paper in place on the glass.

Then apply oil to the top of the wet and dry sand paper, the viscosity of the oil will control the "float" of the piece being lapped. Meaning the the grit of the sandpaper and the thickness of the oil will control the abrasive action or removal of the metal you are lapping. 400 grit paper and 30 weight motor oil will work just fine for a shell holder and excessive down pressure is not needed.

Just remember to rotate the piece being lapped in your grip the keep the surface level.

 

[artbosco]

Send the die back to LEE and tell them what the problem is. They'll fix it.

 

[amlevin]

I had the same problem with one die/case combination until I annealed the case. The brass was tougher than my first wife's meatloaf and was springing back enough to make for difficult chambering.

Anneal and the spring back is minimized. BTW, accuracy went way up as well, presumably due to more even neck tensions.

 

[masterblaster1]

Yep, just called them, they told me to send die in (die is 30 years old) with a case from that rifle, they will modify the die to give me 3 thou of space, free, they are a good company, always have been.

Send the die back to LEE and tell them what the problem is. They'll fix it.

 

[jonbearman]

I would still anneal your cases as they get hard from use and annealing will definitely help the sizing problem and your neck tension.

 

[snert]

Once you get the co-ax you will likely find that the dies work, without a bunch of cutting, grinding, slicing, etc etc.

 

[amlevin]

Once you get the co-ax you will likely find that the dies work, without a bunch of cutting, grinding, slicing, etc etc.

Does the Forster Coax have some mythical ability to push the die past the top of the shellholder?

$100 press or $350 press, when the die is firmly pressed against the top of the shellholder with a case in it, that's all you get. If the die isn't made to the proper dimension then no more money spent on a press will change that.

 

[jim_k]

Screwing the die down another 1/8 turn takes up the slack in the hinges, which is present when the ram is under pressure during sizing. Always been that way.
Jim