FL Sizing .40 S&W Issues

[Mikemci]

Newbie here to .40 reloading. I am working with Glock fired range brass. My FL Sizing die is Redding. When attempting to size, the case won't let me raise the ram all the way up, until it touches the bottom of the die. It makes a definite ridge on the case and shaves pieces of brass off. This happens where the bulge begins, about .25" above the case base. I can run it through a Lee carbide factory crimp die, with the Bulge Buster kit and it will go into a Wilson case gauge, but it needs a little push to get it into the gauge. Is my Redding die machined too tight? Any suggestions? Thanks, Mike

 

[dellet]

Stupid question. Are you running the brass through the sizing die first or the bulge buster?

It sounds like you are not getting the bulge out comepletely before sizing.

 

[snert]

Your Redding is tighter than your lee. GRX time

 

[Mikemci]

Stupid question. Are you running the brass through the sizing die first or the bulge buster?

It sounds like you are not getting the bulge out comepletely before sizing.

I have tried to FL size before and after. The results are a little better, if it goes through the bulge buster first but it still shaves the brass and leaves a burr on the case. Lee's instructions say to size first.

 

[Mikemci]

Your Redding is tighter than your lee. GRX time

Yes, the Redding is much tighter.

 

[Mikemci]

Redding I.D.= .414"
Lee I.D.= .421"
I just measured them both.

 

[dellet]

I think this is going to be one of those times it might be best to use products that are designed to work together by the same manufacturer.

I use Redding sizing die and Redding GRX bulge sizer. Redding has you remove the bulge first, then size.

 

[Mikemci]

I picked up a Lee carbide sizing die this morning and it solved the issue.
Thanks for everyone's help! Mike

 

[sparky123321]

Never had much luck reloading any .40 S&W brass that was fired in a Glock factory barrel. Those loose chambers are very tough on the brass. I've tried all the tricks and all the different dies, including the push through dies, with so so results. That's why I always switch over to fully supported Storm Lake barrels on all my .40 S&W Glocks.

 

[Mikemci]

OK, I just ran 120 pcs. through the Lee resizing die and only 6 pcs. needed to go through the bulge buster. All the rest of them fell in and out of the case gauge, with their own weight, after just the resizing die. Will be sending the Redding back for a refund. It's machined too small.

 

[Mikemci]

Never had much luck reloading any .40 S&W brass that was fired in a Glock factory barrel. Those loose chambers are very tough on the brass. I've tried all the tricks and all the different dies, including the push through dies, with so so results. That's why I always switch over to fully supported Storm Lake barrels on all my .40 S&W Glocks.

I'm not shooting a Glock. I'm reloading range brass that others shot in a Glock.
If I did shoot a Glock, I would definitely replace the barrel, like you did.

 

[jepp2]

Any suggestions?

My take, it is less important it fit your case gage, it is very important it fit your chamber. You don't say what make you are going to fire these in. I tend to replace Glock barrels with Lone Wolf barrels primarily for the purpose of shooting lead bullets. The secondary benefit is the tighter chamber and less case swell.

When I recover range brass fired in a Glock, I process those with the normal case swell above the web, I discard those with the guppy belly from OOB firing.

 

[Rsadams]

Since you can tell which brass has been fired from a Glock by looking at the primer strikes you could just keep non Glock bulged brass since pistol brass last forever compared to rifle. You will pick up a lot of non Glock fired brass over time and this will eliminate worrying about it.. Make sure it fits your chamber not just the gauge.

If your just picking up range brass over time you will have a 5 gallon bucket full no problem. Now I only pick up what I know is once fired anything and go back and remove brass that may not be. Its good to keep some junker brass in case you go shoot were you can't or won't be recovering the brass.. Pistol brass last so long it's not worth the trouble or taking chances..

 

[Mikemci]

My take, it is less important it fit your case gage, it is very important it fit your chamber. You don't say what make you are going to fire these in. I tend to replace Glock barrels with Lone Wolf barrels primarily for the purpose of shooting lead bullets. The secondary benefit is the tighter chamber and less case swell.

When I recover range brass fired in a Glock, I process those with the normal case swell above the web, I discard those with the guppy belly from OOB firing.

I will be shooting them in M&P Shield.
Can you explain how they could fit a chamber gauge, but not my chamber?

 

[Rsadams]

I will be shooting them in M&P Shield.
Can you explain how they could fit a chamber gauge, but not my chamber?

Chamber gauge is made to exact specs.. Your chamber may not be.. Or it could be the other way around.. Just pull the barrel and check some. Some chambers or loose and some are tight.. Odds are everything is just fine but since your just starting out you might as well check now so you know...

Best case senario they don't chamber , worst case could be bad.. Why chance it? Once you check you should be fine.. Loading pistol is easy.. I also run every round through a Wilson case gauge and have never had a problem out of thousands..

I don't know how many times you can reload pistol brass I just chunk them when they get hard or beat up but its alot.. Normally you lose some also..
Just remember you are the quality control now so if you don't like something don't use it.. As I said you will end up with buckets of brass over the next year or so , so keep the good stuff and recycle the rest.. There's a five gallon bucket full of reject brass I have been collecting over the past few years, at a buck a pound it ads up..

 

[Mikemci]

Thank you rsadams, I will check them in the barrel also.
Belt and suspenders is always a good idea.

 

[nicholst55]

Actually, Glock changed the design of their .40 S&W barrels and chambers about 10 years ago to either significantly reduce, or completely eliminate, the 'Glock bulge.' Current production Glock .40 barrels support the case head much better than their older barrels. I have never experienced the Glock bulge with my 2013 production Gen 4 G22. But then, I don't try to turn the gun into a hand grenade with each round, either. Not saying that anyone here does, but some poorly informed (read: reckless) people do. If I pick up (or buy) .40 S&W range brass, I simply recycle any bulged brass. The stuff is prodigious and so cheap that I'm not really losing anything by discarding a few pieces of bulged brass.

 

[Mikemci]

Actually, Glock changed the design of their .40 S&W barrels and chambers about 10 years ago to either significantly reduce, or completely eliminate, the 'Glock bulge.' Current production Glock .40 barrels support the case head much better than their older barrels. I have never experienced the Glock bulge with my 2013 production Gen 4 G22. But then, I don't try to turn the gun into a hand grenade with each round, either. Not saying that anyone here does, but some poorly informed (read: reckless) people do. If I pick up (or buy) .40 S&W range brass, I simply recycle any bulged brass. The stuff is prodigious and so cheap that I'm not really losing anything by discarding a few pieces of bulged brass.

Glock's mod. may be why only 6 cases needed the bulge buster. Many more than that had the Glock firing pin indention.
Thanks for your comment. Mike

 

[Snake Pliskin]

I am the only reloader who knows how to size the bump on the Glock .40 brass.

 

[Rsadams]

Thank you rsadams, I will check them in the barrel also.
Belt and suspenders is always a good idea.

Let me just add once you check it once you can just use your chamber gauge after that instead of pulling your barrel becouse you know your good to go... Also as nicholst55 said Glock redid their design to help fix the bulge in the .40 cal so someone must have an older pistol or is loading them hot hot.. Either way it's only a few so chunk them..
I believe you said you went to a Lee die.. I like the Lee 4 die set with the factory crimp die included. Its all I use for pistol.. Just don't forget to NOT overcrimp , only remove the bell in the case in 9mm , .45 , .40 etc. But crimp them good in long case like .38spl or .357 mag.