That looks really good. Practice is the key. You want to get where every one looks that good or better. It comes down to t little things.
First threading attempt
- Thread starter Butch Bradshaw
- Start date
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
Most of the time guys get a lathe and the main focus is how nice the threading looks. It has nothing to do with accuracy. Focus on the throat and shoulder first then worry about pretty threads, imo.
Thanks for the comment. However, even if the chamber is reamed perfect it will still have to be screwed on the action. I haven't threaded or chambered a barrel yet, just trying to learn the basics.
Keep up the good work just might have to hire you yet keep progressing.
If you get your throat to look as good as the last one Alex posted, you have mastered clambering.
Hal
I don't think anyone is arguing Alex's comment, accuracy is going to be dependent on the chambering. But it would seem logical for someone new to using an engine lathe to concentrate on learning basic metal working skills that did not include potentially damaging an expensive reamer first, then move to the next process.
At least that is how I would look at this.
At least that is how I would look at this.
Agreed I spent a whole year learning to machine parts and thread and hold tolerances before I started doing any barrel work. Fast forward 6yrs, if your threading and you can consistently hit thread depths for parts. Maybe start playing with barrels buy a few cheap preferred barrels out of Utah and have at it. I’ve chambered a few of them and have been happy with the quality they are $265 contoured plus shipping
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Thats not a very cheap barrel. Now a green mountain is a cheap barrel. Or you could get a douglas and have something when its done
agree the green mountain was the first barrel I ever chambered paid $90 for the barrel. I was saying for the price they were quality from the few I have chambered.
While waiting on some tooling I played with making some fixtures.
To be honest, I just wanted to see if I could do it. As far as I know, it it isn't a critical dimension anyway.
linebaugh
Silver $$ Contributor
Slow down brother. That fixture is not going to be strong enongh to produce quality work unless you set it up in a steady rest. Also if the lugs are not square and perpinducular that was a wasted attempt at fixing things that don't need fixing.
You are correct in that the dimension you cut is not "super" critical but it didn't need to be done. You are trying to blueprint something with caveman techhnology kind of thing.
Concentrate on making good threads and square tennons then spend most your time learning how to index your barrel bore to .0000 and feed your reamer correctly. These two things will get you more accuracy bang for your buck. With good barrel blanks and even not so good blanks it's pretty darn easy to produce 1/2 MOA guns. This is what I shoot for in sporters. With the same its also pretty common to turn out 1/4 moa guns with heavier barrels. And I don't go crazy on load development as I don't kill paper much.
Not trying to discourage or condemn you but slow your roll a bit. No need to get creative.
You are correct in that the dimension you cut is not "super" critical but it didn't need to be done. You are trying to blueprint something with caveman techhnology kind of thing.
Concentrate on making good threads and square tennons then spend most your time learning how to index your barrel bore to .0000 and feed your reamer correctly. These two things will get you more accuracy bang for your buck. With good barrel blanks and even not so good blanks it's pretty darn easy to produce 1/2 MOA guns. This is what I shoot for in sporters. With the same its also pretty common to turn out 1/4 moa guns with heavier barrels. And I don't go crazy on load development as I don't kill paper much.
Not trying to discourage or condemn you but slow your roll a bit. No need to get creative.
That fixture would be perfect fine to drive the bolt if he chooses to do lug work or bolt face work. Just needs supported in a cat head and or steady of some sort on other end. Numerous ways to do it. I believe the OP knows that. What he did is excellent practice to build upon. He is on right track. I believe being creative and outside of box thinking is good...
paperpuncher
Gold $$ Contributor
Agree with the above comments. OP something to consider on the stub you built to screw into the back of the bolt. I would think about a radius surface as opposed to a straight shaft,think of gripping a round ball in the chuck instead of the straight shaft. This will allow you to set it up without putting the part in a bind when you move the opposite end around
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