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First shot after cleaning

On the PAC-NOR website under Bbl break-in and cleaning techniques,they recommend "Never shoot a dry bore as this will greatly promote copper fouling".
This is the first I've read this. Makes sense tho. I've always run a few dry patches thru the bore to get the oil out before the first shot after cleaning or storage.
Any thoughts on this?

Thanks, Mark
 
Yeah, I'm guilty of the dry bore first shot. I'd like to find out what might be good for the first shot without causing the need for a half dozen fowling shots.

I've gotta say that with my Pac-Nor barrel, I haven't noticed much problem or even loss of accuracy whether it is clean, dirty, fowled, etc.
Maybe I'm worrying about nuthin. jd
 
I've been told to use lock-ease , run a patch of that after cleaning. I think it's graphite solution .

I know several great shooters who use Lock Ease as a final patch after cleaning. I use HBN suspended in alcohol (because I still have a bottle I made up when shooting HBN coated bullets) as a final patch after cleaning...if the rifle is going to be fired within a week or so. If put up for a while, or if 'pickling' a barrel, I use a corrosion inhibiting solution on a patch (pick your poison) but will patch that out with a HBN/alcohol patch or two and let dry for a few minutes before firing. The first shot is usually a little low and slow but the second shot is back into zero.
 
I shoot my F-TR rifles squeeky clean and dry after I clean them. I've never had a quality barrel give me any copper for the first 4000 shots or so. My cold bore shot does hit about 1½ MOA low at 1000 yards. I've not had a barrel yet that didn't get back to zero in about 3 shots.
 
I run ONE dry patch through the bore after getting the copper out with Pro Shot Copper Solvent. Leaves behind a very slight protective residue. If I run 2 or 3 patches at the end, there's nothing left to protect the bore during storage periods so that's why I only use one patch.

I have only 1 rifle that has ever "consistently" placed the very first clean barrel cold bore shot in the same sub 1/4 MOA group made with subsequent rounds. Blows my mind every time. Don't even worry about fouling shots with that particular rifle. Every time I shoot on a clean barrel I think, "This first one is gonna fly", and every time it proves me wrong.

What makes it even more amazing is that it's just a budget semi-custom hunting rifle build. Trued up Thompson Center Venture action with a #5 contour Chrome Moly Shilen 1 in 8" twist barrel @ 26" chambered in 6.5 Remington Magnum. Factory trigger and stock with full bedding Devcon 10110 bedding job by yours truly. Zeiss HD5 5-25x50 scope. Using neck turned Remington brass and 140gr Berger Hunting VLD's at 3210 fps with the 59gr of RL-26.

All of my other rifles take at least 2-3 fouling shots before settling down.

6.5 Rem Mag at 100 yards. Clean cold bore. You can see the difference in speed with the first shot as it fouls the clean bore, but the POI remains identical.
20170805_200537.jpg

Same rifle at 600 yards. Clean cold bore group.

20170929_191303.jpg
 
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If you are running a patch with BN in suspension of alcohol, you are shooting a dry bore. The alcohol dries about as fast as you run the patch and even before the patch is in the bore guide.
 
I wonder when I see the term "Never shoot a dry bore as this will greatly promote copper fouling". This is a very vague statement in my opinion. I take this to mean that you need some type of lubricant.
I clean my barrel with patches soaked in Bore Tech Eliminator followed by dry patches, then I use patches soaked in Brake Free CLP Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative, followed by dry patches till clean. This leaves a very thin, protective coating of lubricant in the barrel, so essentially, the bore is never technically dry.
 
I read here liquid doesn't compress... Water doesn't yes , but oil does , that's why water in a motor will bend a connecting rod but oil or gas won't , diesel fires on compression... I mean i would want to shoot a barrel with oil dripping out of it.. This may be what their talking about... A dry patch ran through the barrel after the oil patch should be fine.. I inspect all barrels before I fire the first shot anyway to make sure nothing has gotten in there...
 
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I’ve seen people shoot firearms under water , didnt hurt them.

https://www.range365.com/how-to-shoot-glock-underwater

While it can be done every explosion causes cavitation in the bore. Just like wet liners in diesel engines. This greatly reduced the life of the barrel. Same event can happen with a wet barrel from too much oil. A couple of dry patches will remove any excess oil leaving a very thin coat to protect the barrel.
 
I read here liquid doesn't compress... Water doesn't yes , but oil does , that's why water in a motor will bend a connecting rod but oil or gas won't , diesel fires on compression... I mean i would want to shoot a barrel with oil dripping out of it.. This may be what their talking about...

All liquids have the same non compression properties. Oils especially this is why hydraulic systems use oil.
 
All liquids have the same non compression properties. Oils especially this is why hydraulic systems use oil.
Then why do they have compresable and none compresable liquids..? Edit , I see what you mean about oil it's darn close to water... A look at liquid compression chart did the trick...lol
 
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In order for a liquid under compression to do damage, it must be confined. Pascal's law states that a confined liquid will transmit pressure in all directions and at right angles to it's vessel. A barrel is not closed on the end and you don't have the bore full of oil. Just a film of oil, compressible or not, will not harm your firearm and it's doubtful it will raise pressure unless it seals a little of the blow by gases. The oil will be virtually all wiped out by the first projectile that passes through the barrel. That projectile will probably glide a little more freely than the next and, thus, the flier.
 
My main concern about leaving a bore extremely oily , I oil them and run a dry patch through them before putting them in the safe is that it runs down and gets were I don't want it ( wood stocks ) but I live in a dusty environment , so I run a dry patch through the bore before I go to the range.. may not do anything but make me feel better lol but I do it... Seems to me unless you use some product it will always have that fine layer in the bore till it's fired... But in the humid environment in Texas I can't see how you could not oil the bore before storing them...
 
I'm confused by a couple of terms here.
1. Dry bore
2. Wet bore
How about a dry but coated bore?
I finish my cleaning with a graphite solution in alcohol, so it is coated, but dry. I also shoot moly coated bullets, but not solely for friction reduction reasons in the bore. Since I started doing this, my cold bore shots are closer to being on call and the velocity difference is less between the first shot and subsequent shots.
I believe the intent by Pacnor was to mean not run a bare bullet down a squeaky clean bore.
These thoughts are worth exactly what you paid for them.
Thanks,
Lloyd
 

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