First ladder test…… help

[williepete]

I have been where you are at
What I would suggest is to
1. go back to the crono
load 10 rounds .2 gn. at a time and go up get your combustion down first
when I do load development I don't even shoot at paper at first
you can do this at any range all you are looking for is the bullet
leaving the barrel at the same speed find your node in 10 rounds
their are usually 2 one low and one hi in the powder charge
when you get that down go out to a 100 yards and work on barrel harmonics
either with seating depth or a barrel tuner or both use seating depth to get the groups
close and fine tune with the tuner if your es is low but your groups are wide it is harmonics
the only other thing that would cause wide groups after that is bullet bc
hopes this makes sense and helps
1. Combustion
2. Harmonics
3. Bullet bc

 

[Gargoyle]

I have been where you are at
What I would suggest is to
1. go back to the crono
load 10 rounds .2 gn. at a time and go up get your combustion down first
when I do load development I don't even shoot at paper at first
you can do this at any range all you are looking for is the bullet
leaving the barrel at the same speed find your node in 10 rounds
their are usually 2 one low and one hi in the powder charge
when you get that down go out to a 100 yards and work on barrel harmonics
either with seating depth or a barrel tuner or both use seating depth to get the groups
close and fine tune with the tuner if your es is low but your groups are wide it is harmonics
the only other thing that would cause wide groups after that is bullet bc
hopes this makes sense and helps
1. Combustion
2. Harmonics
3. Bullet bc

SOLID

 

[DLT]

I have been where you are at
What I would suggest is to
1. go back to the crono
load 10 rounds .2 gn. at a time and go up get your combustion down first
when I do load development I don't even shoot at paper at first
you can do this at any range all you are looking for is the bullet
leaving the barrel at the same speed find your node in 10 rounds
their are usually 2 one low and one hi in the powder charge
when you get that down go out to a 100 yards and work on barrel harmonics
either with seating depth or a barrel tuner or both use seating depth to get the groups
close and fine tune with the tuner if your es is low but your groups are wide it is harmonics
the only other thing that would cause wide groups after that is bullet bc
hopes this makes sense and helps
1. Combustion
2. Harmonics
3. Bullet bc

Node as in flat spots in velocity ? Where 2-3 charges don’t have much fps change ?

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Node as in flat spots in velocity ? Where 2-3 charges don’t have much fps change ?

Yes, at least that's what I look for. Like with many things, you'll hear different opinions but I'd start right there and with .2 powder increments. A tuner helps once you establish a solid velocity and flat spot. Otherwise, you can adjust seating depth to shrink groups from there.

 

[williepete]

DLT give us some info on the rifel
I am assuming it is a AR and you are shooting 223
if so what is your barrel length and twist rate
I am going to see if I can work up something for ya.

 

[williepete]

Do the 6.5 guys load development test, 10 shots and your done. It works well

No offense, I have tried that. I have watched their video as well as others. What usually happens in my case is horrible groups and great es/sd

When you had it down to great es/sd you are more than half way there
now just work on your barrel harmonics check out this video

Erick brings it down to the bare bones I have followed him for quite a while
and have always found his info helpful and definitely upped my game

 

[DLT]

DLT give us some info on the rifel
I am assuming it is a AR and you are shooting 223
if so what is your barrel length and twist rate
I am going to see if I can work up something for ya.

It’s a factory savage model 12 low pro varmint, with a 26” urban rifleman 223 wylde chamber barrel screwed on it. 1:8 twist . I have shot groups at 100 that I’m happy with. The gun will shoot no doubt. I’d like a good consistent load that drives tacks day in and day out. Im after proper load development with the rifle.

 

[williepete]

Sounds to me that you know what's going on
The only thing I can suggest is get your es and sd down in the single digits
and then go to work on your groups with tuning the harmonics with seating depth
A barrel tuner will make it a lot easier It is just a matter of choosing which way you want to go
It is verry time consuming but worth the time when you achieve your goal

 

[williepete]

It’s a factory savage model 12 low pro varmint, with a 26” urban rifleman 223 wylde chamber barrel screwed on it. 1:8 twist . I have shot groups at 100 that I’m happy with. The gun will shoot no doubt. I’d like a good consistent load that drives tacks day in and day out. Im after proper load development with the rifle.

Watch the video everything you need to know is their

 

[Webster]

For the most part I don’t think they are. Nor did I notice a hard bolt lift. It’s a savage model 12. Alliant claims 23.2gr as their max. Sierra is 21.6gr I don’t understand why their data is low. I messed up the other day at 100yds when it was 40 degrees outside and started with 24.0 grains but didn’t see anything hateful. So I went on up to 24.0 for the ladder just fired the rounds I thought could be hot which was from 23.6 to 24.0 above the group.
They go in order from left to right first row is sighters. Each column is a .2 increase

My Rem 700 shows the same slight rim around the FP dent . It's normal with a FP hole that's a little large I have been shooting the same Rem 700 action since 1969 with different barrels. I wouldn't spend the money to bush the primer hole. If you shoot five rounds with increasing charge set the cases aside as references. You can see the ridge get more pronounced with increasing charge. Some people will disagree but I can judge when the pressure is getting high but not dangerous by looking at the craters. I see swipe marks from the extractor hole before any other signs of pressure. Pressure is the only thing that can push the primer cup into the hole. I shot 1000s of 58 gr Vmax at 3580 fps with my 6BR barrel and some cratering is normal. If you see swipe marks back off .3 gr or more of powder. I'll have to look in my car tomorrow to see if I have any fired cases to photo.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

First thing- stop shooting round robin. Shoot your same loads together. You had lots of conditions there so lots changed in the minutes it took to get to the next similar round. Second, and im not going to keep beating you up on it, but at 300yds youll need to use and understand at least 5 good wind flags. Back your distance up to 100 or even 75 and get some kind of wind indicator. Make sure they are the same for those 3 shots. These results here got you out shooting and making sure your equipment was working.

 

[williepete]

load data for your bullet

 

[Ccrider]

leaving the barrel at the same speed find your node in 10 rounds
their are usually 2 one low and one hi in the powder charge

Yes, at least that's what I look for. Like with many things, you'll hear different opinions but I'd start right there and with .2 powder increments.

I have been following this thread and find these two post intriguing— using speed to determine the node? I recently shot my first time at 525 yards. I shot a 3 shot ladder. I will start a new post so as not to hijacker’s the op’s thread.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

If you have .5 moa and better at 100, you need flags to hold that at 300 yards with the 223. 5 mph wind will move bullet out more than .5moa both horizontal and vertical depending on angle.

 

[DLT]

I have been following this thread and find these two post intriguing— using speed to determine the node? I recently shot my first time at 525 yards. I shot a 3 shot ladder. I will start a new post so as not to hijacker’s the op’s thread.

Go ahead I sure won’t mind either way dude