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Firing pin hole drilled off-center - how to fix?

If the firing pin hole is off-center, does that mean the other portions of the hole through the bolt are also off-center?

Maybe someone can steer me towards an explanation, or video, or cut-away image of bushing a firing pin hole so I have a better understanding of what that means?
There in could be another problem. If the bolt’s ID is not true with the OD, then bushing the hole to get it in the center of the bolt body OD might result in te firing pin binding in the ID. This could result in more ignition problems than the hole not being in center.

For what it is worth, I don’t really think you have that big of a problem. I have seen post 64 Winchester push feed actions with the firing pin strike so far off center that it was amazing it even fired.

My advice is to shoot the rifle, take a good look at the primer strike, and decide if “fixing” it would be even worth the effort.
 
I rebarreled a custom action for a customer. A really good 600 yard sling shooter. It was a Remington clone and I cut the bolt nose cbore as I normally do and the bolt wouldnt close. I ended up cutting the cbore 0.040 oversize to get the bolt to close. The rifle still shoots high x cleans at 600. For a controlled feed gun I would lose absolutly no sleep over that firing pin issue.
 
In your 2nd and 3rd photo your calipers appear to not be parallel with the bolt body.
Steve Bair
 
Thanks for everyones' suggestions. I am in the process of cleaning the barrel, and I am pulling out a fair amount of copper.





And, the scope was mounted on a rail, which, despite appearing to be correct for this gun, did not make good contact with the rear bridge of the action. The curvature of the rail did not match that of the bridge, and, either the action or the rail is not straight.





And, when I removed the rail, I found that the front screw was bottoming out on the barrel threads. (The rail was floppy-loose when the only screw holding it on was the tightened front screw.)



And, it feels like the magazine box is binding between the action and the bottom metal. Holy cow that's a lot of issues! I am afraid to see what the action bedding looks like. Once I am done fixing these basic issues, I will run some factory ammo through the gun and report back with my results.
 
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I have mentioned to Shinbone that the two of these I handled and measured shot well for a hunting rifle with a sporter weight barrel. One was a 30-06, the other a 338-06, both with Lilja barrels. Both were under 3/4" with decent hand loads with hunting bullets (Nosler Partitions) for 3 shot groups. Other than the chambering, both guns are identical as that's what the owner wanted.

Both rifles are still in service all these years later and have harvested a bunch of game for the owner. -Al
 
It's like having a date with the most beautiful woman in the world. You can take her on the perfect first date and still go home lonely and rejected. You just keep trying.
I built several rifles with those actions. All shot well but you didn't want to look under the hood.

You are right Dave. I built 2 and they were minute of animal, but not one that I would do again. They are what I call a kit receiver, needs work. Might be why they fell by the wayside.
 
I don’t see the point in beating around the bush when it’s obvious it’s a Montana Rifle Company CRF action. I’ve done work on one for a friend in 338 Lapua. There’s nothing impressive about the machine work. They are definitely rougher than other ‘custom’ actions but they don’t cost as much as a BAT and they aren’t trying to be one either. Even less impressive is their bedding jobs in the stocks they come with. But with some TLC in the areas they need for accurizing work and careful load development, my buddy’s rifle became very accurate with good consistency and reliability. It has harvested a lot of nice animals for him at long range over the last handful of years. As Dave said, they may not be pretty under the hood but they will shoot quite well.
 

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