Fireforming Question

[kyreloader]

I recently had my hunting rifle re-barreled to 6.5x55 BJAI. I am trying to decide if I am going to wait to put my new barrel on, or go ahead and swap out the barrels. Originally, I had planned on buying 100 of the Lapua 6.5x55 brass, then fireforming with 142g SMKs (I have a bunch of those). I am waiting on my sizing die however, which could be 6-8 weeks to be completed (full length sizing die). I plan to send a Wilson 6.5x55 die to my smith to make my seating die with my reamer.

So my question is, would you go the above route or just buy 100 rounds of Lapua factory ammo (on sale for $69/50) and use that to fire-form my brass?

Lapua brass is $86/100, so will be saving about $52 up front, but 100 bullets will make it about even (without cost of primers).

Any worries with shooting factory ammo to fireform the AI chamberings?

Thanks in advance.

 

[LHSmith]

What action? The Swede has an odd case head size ( slightly bigger than the .308 size) ....and narrow extraction groove. On a Rem 700 I chambered up in a Swede Improved I had to have the Lapua cases' extraction groove widened in order to get 100% positive extraction.
Only problem with FF factory rounds is that to get consistent cases, the bullet should be loaded into the rifling forcing the case head against the bolt face so the brass flows in one direction.

 

[JRS]

That's one of the reasons I use RWS brass. The groove is wider than the groove on the Lapua brass.

 

[kyreloader]

What action? The Swede has an odd case head size ( slightly bigger than the .308 size) ....and narrow extraction groove. On a Rem 700 I chambered up in a Swede Improved I had to have the Lapua cases' extraction groove widened in order to get 100% positive extraction.
Only problem with FF factory rounds is that to get consistent cases, the bullet should be loaded into the rifling forcing the case head against the bolt face so the brass flows in one direction.

Ruger action.

So you don't think I will get proper fireforming since bullet not loaded in the lands?

I didn't load in the lands when I FF my Shehane or my Dasher after hydro-forming. I guess I hadn't thought about that.

 

[MagnumManiac]

What action? The Swede has an odd case head size ( slightly bigger than the .308 size) ....and narrow extraction groove. On a Rem 700 I chambered up in a Swede Improved I had to have the Lapua cases' extraction groove widened in order to get 100% positive extraction.
Only problem with FF factory rounds is that to get consistent cases, the bullet should be loaded into the rifling forcing the case head against the bolt face so the brass flows in one direction.

Ruger action.

So you don't think I will get proper fireforming since bullet not loaded in the lands?

I didn't load in the lands when I FF my Shehane or my Dasher after hydro-forming. I guess I hadn't thought about that.

If the chamber was cut correctly, with .005" negative headspace, as it should have, there is no need to seat into the lands to hold the case head back, the shoulder/neck junction does this for you.
I fireform all of my improved cases with a fast shotgun powder, Clays works very well because it is bulky, no COW is necessary, just a twist of TP in the neck and slightly compress it with a chopstick, shoot and retrieve. I would start with a 1/3 of a normal load or a little less and increase until a fully blownout case is achieved, for example, my 375 Weatherby requires 30gr of Clays, my 22-250AI requires 12gr, and my 257AI requires 18gr.

Cheers.
8)

 

[tclaunch]

The reamer and gauge you sent me for this project was from JGS.... They sent a -.004" headspace gauge so you should have a slight "crush" or snug headspace on factory ammo. Don`t worry about jamming the bullet.

 

[JRS]

The reamer and gauge you sent me for this project was from JGS.... They sent a -.004" headspace gauge so you should have a slight "crush" or snug headspace on factory ammo. Don`t worry about jamming the bullet.

Finally 8) Someone who knows how it works, and what it takes to make it work My 6.5X55 BJAI is also a JGS reamer with the go gauge set-up the same way. JGS knows what they're doing

 

[kyreloader]

Thanks Tim, just the information that I needed.

JRS, thanks for letting me know.

 

[JRS]

Thanks Tim, just the information that I needed.

JRS, thanks for letting me know.

You're quite welcome