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Fire forming help

Go slow, go far is what one of my older buddies used to tell me when I was young, dumb, & in a hurry. Close is for horseshoes & hand grenades, not handloading. Brain fart or not, 2.8xx" is a rather large difference from 2.4xx" in this situation.

I transposed the numbers on the paper, not on my caliper.
Not as experienced as many here, however, never had a dud, or an overcharge, whether with rifle pistol or shotgun loads. So as strange as it may seem, I can load accurate ammo.

Answers to all of your questions & non-existent problems are in the thread above. I might suggest that you slow down & re-read for comprehension. Read twice if you dont understand. Three or more times if needed. Internal ballistics kinda is rocket science, but case forming is boringly mechanical. Nothing magical about it. I might also suggest practicing with some cheaper brass before ruining some of your premium pieces.
I did fire form some cheaper brass and they turned out fine.
All of your brass is likely fine as long as there's not a stretch ring started at the top of the web. At this point I'd be more concerned with varying headspace dimensions than case lengths. It all needs to be fired again to more fully form the cases. This takes pressure. Maybe someone with more engineering background will chime in with exactly how much, but wimpy loads wont do it.
If there is a false shoulder (which was mentioned previously, maybe you missed it) holding the case head against the bolt face, why should I worry about varying head space
If this is your first foray into wildcatting, there is a learning curve. Welcome to the world of non-standard cartridges. It aint for everybody.
I came here for advise from more knowledgeable reloader's than myself, not to be chastised by them, ..... but thanks for your input and advise.
And not for nuttin' I designed my own cartridge once upon a time
20200221_134613.jpg
Al Warner built it ... and it shoots really well .... go figure.
Cheers
 
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