FFP SCOPES FOR P-DOGS
- Thread starter jcm24m
- Start date
Shooting pdogs, I very rarely change the power on my scope. 20 power is sufficient for all. I use the focus knob for anything from 50yds out to .... The VXIII with the VARMINT HUNTER RETICAL, is dialed to my fps.
Front focal plane if you can afford it is really the only way to go. I don't see any instance shooting varmint where someone could say I couldn't make the shot because the reticle got in the way. Now if your trying to aim at a half inch dot at 500 yards the reticle may cover it up but not an animal worth shooting.
I prefer them, but I change shooting direction and distance very frequently where the wind is generally blowing 20-35MPH. Some may not like 'em, I do, when coupled with a no/minimum recoil/torque rifle.
Crosshair width- depends on the scope, but yes they get larger at high mag. Vortex LR HS 6-24x FFP XLR has VERY small etching, I can't even see the grid unless its above 12x on a darker background. Light background shows up sooner.
Do yourself a favor and look through a FFP before you buy. You may be surprised.
Regards, Paul
www.boltfluting.com
Regards, Paul
www.boltfluting.com
dragman
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I have a FFP currently and when I set up a new one I will go back too the 2fp. The size of the crosshair is way too big in a FFP when your WAY out in the long range for small stuff. I shoot groundhogs and over 1000 yards the crosshairs on my GenII Razor get a little heavy for my liking.
dragman
Site $$ Sponsor
It's really hard to make an accurate shot when the crosshair is bigger than the creature that your killing.
At what magnification?
dragman
Site $$ Sponsor
I don't know about Matt, but if it's with my atacr it's almost always on 25, my razor so far always 27.
I did shoot a deer this year at 1020 with my atacr at 14 power because of conditions
Man I can't stand to crank it up that high for PD's, a) field of view b) mirage c) eyestrain, and shots over 400 yds are pretty rare for me. Did take one at 650 late last year at 20x but that was more due to easier drop calculation (Zeiss RZ800 with a drop chart calculated at 10x) than anything else. Different strokes as they say.
Forum Boss
Administrator
Not sure I understand. I cannot come up with a single reason I would want A FFP scope for Pdogs.
You are going to range with a laser. I would suggest a 2nd FP with at least a true 25x max, with a reticle that has some vertical holdover marks. This is so you don't need to click elevation as you move back and forth from 100 to 400 yards in a dog town. My last dog Safari we had shots from 75 - 390 yards and I only clicked for the longest shots.
If you have a mil/mil {reticle and turrets} scope and it's also a variable scope then you want FFP. It is nice when you can see how much a miss was in mils, run the turret and fire, no matter what power you are zoomed to. I don't know if prairie dogs will sit still for it, but it would be nice to have if even half of them would. Outside of that scenario...there's really not much use for it.
It was popular in European scopes for some strange reason. My Zeiss Diavari has it, but without mil dots and turrets to make it useful it's just kind of there. I still prefer a good laser rangefinder, external turrets and "comeups" written on the scope cover for a probable first shot hit. I get that you can do it with a mil/mil scope too, but I really like my old M1 Mark 4's.
It was popular in European scopes for some strange reason. My Zeiss Diavari has it, but without mil dots and turrets to make it useful it's just kind of there. I still prefer a good laser rangefinder, external turrets and "comeups" written on the scope cover for a probable first shot hit. I get that you can do it with a mil/mil scope too, but I really like my old M1 Mark 4's.
If it's my NXS it is usually on 22X. The thing bout longrange is, if you see the shot all you do is put it back on the Point of Aim and click to the hit. Now it is there. I just like seeing the crosshair on the target not covering it up. Matt
To me that's the beauty of a grid, and minimal recoil, no clicking, after the first miss shooting at that direction and range its not a guess. Zero it, make a drop/windage chart, memorize it, with FFP there's no additional math. Not sitting at a bench, no rangefinder, frequent change of direction and range, lots of wind usually, I'd rather miss and make the second. We're talking prairie dogs here, I have more fun taking more shots. Most calibers there's not much concern about drop for shots from 50-300 yds, after 350 there is, but WIND is a definite factor and there's not much out there for an indicator, until you try the first shot. To each their own.
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
I think that everyone has their preference. We started shooting dogs in 1979. I like the 8-32 and 12-32 range, you can always turn the power up and down as needed. I shot a LOT at 28x. It is real nice to turn the power up just to the point to where you can see the mirage running to use as a wind indicator. I also prefer a fine cross hair that does not cover up the dog, and allows precise shot placement instead of only being able to shoot center of mass. By placing your shot, you can then adjust for elevation and windage to get all the dogs in that general vicinity. For instance, you have a dog sitting on a hole, put some English on one side of his head, bowl him over into the hole plugging it up. Then continue to put some English on the follow up targets further plugging the hole. By the time they figure out that something is going on, you have cleared them out. Very often a dog will only have his head out of a hole, and it is nice to suck him out at ranges to 325 or further with the fine cross hair, you will not be able to do this with thicker crosshairs and 20x scopes as it takes precise hits to get a back flip launch with only a head showing.
It's a hobby, do it the way that floats your boat, and it sure does not take a super high dollar scope to shoot dogs.
It's a hobby, do it the way that floats your boat, and it sure does not take a super high dollar scope to shoot dogs.
There is no advantage to a second focal plane scope over a high quality front focal plane scope. Scopes like the kahles 624i and Schmidt bender pm2 are examples of the good front focal plane scopes. The reticle at max magnification will not prevent you from hitting anything at any distance. If a dog pops out at 500 and you know your drop you can take a quick shot holding over at whatever magnification your glassing at. If your using a sfp you will have to either pull off the scope and dial your drop or you will have to glass at a set magnification.
Just to put some numbers with this topic. There are some FFP reticles out there these days that are pretty thin. The technology to make FFP reticles thinner progresses every year. One of the problems is that FFP scopes almost always come with an illuminated reticle(market driven). Non illuminated FFP reticles can be made even thinner(all of our FFP offerings are illuminated).
That being said, our current Gen 2 4.5-27 reticles are 1/10th moa thick. In other words it will cover up 1.047" at 1000yds. The new Razor AMG 6-24 center cross hair (which will be available later this year) is .077 moa or will cover .8" at 1000yds.
This is not to argue for one side or the other, but rather just some info so people can decide for themselves.
That being said, our current Gen 2 4.5-27 reticles are 1/10th moa thick. In other words it will cover up 1.047" at 1000yds. The new Razor AMG 6-24 center cross hair (which will be available later this year) is .077 moa or will cover .8" at 1000yds.
This is not to argue for one side or the other, but rather just some info so people can decide for themselves.
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