Favorite Gun Stock Oil?

[Rook 6]

Nice rifle. Ballard.?

Thanks. Winchester 1885 Lowall.

 

[epc308]

^^^^^^This. I use it on my single shots. Excellent stuff

Your rifle is stunning. Makes my low wall look like a jack handle. Has it always had the double set trigger setup? What caliber?

 

[Rook 6]

Your rifle is stunning. Makes my low wall look like a jack handle. Has it always had the double set trigger setup? What caliber?

Thanks! It is an original Winder action with a set of Ben Rice aftermarket triggers from what I understand is the 1970’s or 80’s. The rifle is a .22lr!

 

[Dimner]

If @Preacher uses it, you can count on it. It is my favorite also. Here is a Cooper stock I refinished with it. Sounds like an ad for snake oil, but it is pretty much fool proof.
View attachment 1236794

Do you know if the pores on this stock were filled in before using arrow wood oil? That's about the perfect amount of sheen for me. I like it.

 

[jepp2]

Do you know if the pores on this stock were filled in before using arrow wood oil?

The pores were open after I stripped the stock and still are. If I had wet sanded it more I could have filled them in, but I like them open. You control how the finish turns out. Can be anything from satin to high gloss.

 

[BigBolt]

As a wood worker I use tung oil with at least 5 coats.

 

[Dimner]

As a wood worker I use tung oil with at least 5 coats.

I love tung oil! The real stuff from the milk paint company. I used it, about 8 hand rubbed coats, on my M1 Garand. Wonderful finish. However, the next rifle I need to finish is for a deer season in Michigan. You get anything from rain, sleet, snow, heat at 100% humidity.. etc. Last year we got all of that in one season. I figure tung oil, unless I go with dozens of coats isn't going to be quite protective enough.

 

[joshb]

I love tung oil! The real stuff from the milk paint company. I used it, about 8 hand rubbed coats, on my M1 Garand. Wonderful finish. However, the next rifle I need to finish is for a deer season in Michigan. You get anything from rain, sleet, snow, heat at 100% humidity.. etc. Last year we got all of that in one season. I figure tung oil, unless I go with dozens of coats isn't going to be quite protective enough.

It actually will do just fine. Varnish would be better for the “do it yourself “ crowd. Epoxy if you have a rotisserie.
This one is epoxy coated. Pretty much impervious to everything.

 

[Dimner]

It actually will do just fine. Varnish would be better for the “do it yourself “ crowd. Epoxy if you have a rotisserie.
This one is epoxy coated. Pretty much impervious to everything.
View attachment 1451729

tell me more about that stock! Where did you get it? It's absolutely gorgeous.

 

[joshb]

tell me more about that stock! Where did you get it? It's absolutely gorgeous.

The details are near the end of the “Do it yourself Stockmaking” thread in the Gun smithing section of the forum. It’s Tiger maple stained black. It was an experiment.

 

[D-4297]

I've used both Tru-Oil and Danish Oil . The Tru-Oil was advised by the folks at Richards as a "All-purpose" type protectant , since the stock was in a "F"-Open Rifle , and would be exposed to long periods of heat , dust , and rarely some rain , too .
The Danish Oil was a "preferred" recommendation from GRS Stocks of Norway , since the FTR HYBRID was made from Finnish White Birch Laminate , and after nine coats , each being lightly sanded , rubbed out , and allowed to soak-in for ten days , the finish has a velvet sheen , and brings out the colors beautifully .

 

[alintx]

I like 50/50 boiled linseed and tung oil, after a 600 grit sanding. Make a slurry with it and rotten stone and lightly sand it. Repeat after a week of drying time. Buff it. More coats just make it prettier. I'm up to eight coats on one

 

[ggshoots]

Even though I have been a True Oil guy for close to 40 years and done many stocks, I do like GunSavR. I use the Satin for many hunting rifles as I don't want a gloss finish. Also if repairing a Kimber it is the finish to use. I repaired a Kimber Super America that against instructions had been shipped with the barreled action in the stock. When received the wrist was broken badly. Through a lot of reading I found that the GunSavR was as close to the Kimber formula as you can get. After I was done the owner was amazed and couldn't tell where I had blended it in.

 

[Iowa Fox]

I'm not real fond of stock work anymore. It just depends on what I am finishing as to the product I use. For a nice solid walnut I like Arrow. For a nice brightly colored laminated I spray with clear lacquer or take it to a body shop buddy and tell him to hang and shoot it while he is top coating using a hard durable clear. On the black and gray laminate I like to hit them with a light film of black wood dye them finish with Laurel Mountain Permalyn. I don't think that there is anything easy when it comes to stock finish.

 

[GuitarmanNick]

Tung oil or Tru-oil are my primary choices. Both give great results, but Tung oil seems to be a little more resistant to damage, IMO.
Linseed oil does nicely on mil-surps.