Farley rest

[majohnson]

Been able to repair some Farley’s that were pretty rough. Bearings come apart, bearings that have push out ofthe plate since the opening in the plate was .005 and the bonding adhesive could only last for so long.Currently I have bodies (main section of the rest), additionally the bag plate (what the bag holder mounts on), and the tensioner plates. All critical faces are surface ground off the pin grooves for accurate plate alignment. The plates and body are all made from 6061-T6 with type 3 hard anodizing. All the other internal parts are made to fit the existing parts. Unfortunately Farley did not always QC work.

Angus, it to bad you are so far from the Boulder Colorado area, or I would let you try a Farley I have worked on. However you are entitled to your own opinion and I am not criticizing your statement.

If you have questions about any rest feel free to reach out to me, I do check my AS messages 2 or 3 times a day.

Thank you,
Mark Johnson

 

[angus]

Explain

Anniversary giveaway was a scam. Dishonest company.

 

[swd]

Anniversary giveaway was a scam. Dishonest company.

They’re out of business. Any Farley rests out there now are all used.

 

[archerforkids]

Mark or Butch
Is there a trick to eliminate the "rebound" once crosshairs are pulled into place. Mine has a tendency to bounce back maybe 1/2 to1 MOA on a 300 yard target. I have dismantled and thoroughly cleaned all parts. I applied UHMW strips to front plate and applied molly-graph grease to all the appropriate places. Front bearing feels tight with no slop. It does seem there is a little drag at the bottom where the groove receives the windage plate, but it is not sticky or anything.

 

[majohnson]

Farley is based out of Oklahoma City. They closed up a couple years ago. It been some time since did any business under their own name. It been my understanding that rest BC had received in some cases were incomplete.

It just recently that I offered replacement plates and bodies. I can make a new rest but there would be quite a wait. I make all my own parts and do all work, it does take some time.

Archer,
It can be several different things. I am reasonable sure i can fix it, it would awhile before I am able to get to it.

 

[Mulligan]

Mark or Butch
Is there a trick to eliminate the "rebound" once crosshairs are pulled into place. Mine has a tendency to bounce back maybe 1/2 to1 MOA on a 300 yard target. I have dismantled and thoroughly cleaned all parts. I applied UHMW strips to front plate and applied molly-graph grease to all the appropriate places. Front bearing feels tight with no slop. It does seem there is a little drag at the bottom where the groove receives the windage plate, but it is not sticky or anything.

Mark has my backup Farley now, it’s in for a overhaul.
He gave my primary Farley “the business” last spring and I can say with some certainty that the “return to battery” is infinitely better. I now have times where I can run a string of five down range without touching the joystick at all. It is not always… not close but a lot better. But I spend a lot less time with my hand on the joystick of the rest. It’s buttery smooth and stays put very well.

CW

 

[butchlambert]

Mark or Butch
Is there a trick to eliminate the "rebound" once crosshairs are pulled into place. Mine has a tendency to bounce back maybe 1/2 to1 MOA on a 300 yard target. I have dismantled and thoroughly cleaned all parts. I applied UHMW strips to front plate and applied molly-graph grease to all the appropriate places. Front bearing feels tight with no slop. It does seem there is a little drag at the bottom where the groove receives the windage plate, but it is not sticky or anything.

Remove the screws that hold the little plate that attaches the boot to the rear of the rest. See if that helps. I've tried several lubes and found that Racing bicycle synthetic wheel bearing grease works best for me.

 

[archerforkids]

Remove the screws that hold the little plate that attaches the boot to the rear of the rest. See if that helps. I've tried several lubes and found that Racing bicycle synthetic wheel bearing grease works best for me.

Thank you sir

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Remove the screws that hold the little plate that attaches the boot to the rear of the rest. See if that helps. I've tried several lubes and found that Racing bicycle synthetic wheel bearing grease works best for me.

Not knocking it buddy. Bicycle lube might be the best thing since sliced bread but I think Mark has worked with engineers in the lube industry and they came up with a very good, albeit expensive lube, specifically for this application. If I'm wrong, I hope Mark will set me straight but he didn't happen upon what he uses. Pretty impressive research, from what I understand and know(or heard) about it. That info came mostly from Alan Wofford, who is no longer involved in doing these upgrades. So take it FWIW. I did see Mark make some mention of the lube he uses. Maybe he'll elaborate on it as much as he can or is willing to share. Lots of money and time spent on just that one little aspect is what I was told. If true...can't blame him a bit for keeping the details somewhat to himself. @majohnson

 

[butchlambert]

Not knocking it buddy. Bicycle lube might be the best thing since sliced bread but I think Mark has worked with engineers in the lube industry and they came up with a very good, albeit expensive lube, specifically for this application. If I'm wrong, I hope Mark will set me straight but he didn't happen upon what he uses. Pretty impressive research, from what I understand and know(or heard) about it. That info came mostly from Alan Wofford, who is no longer involved in doing these upgrades. So take it FWIW. I did see Mark make some mention of the lube he uses. Maybe he'll elaborate on it as much as he can or is willing to share. Lots of money and time spent on just that one little aspect is what I was told. If true...can't blame him a bit for keeping the details somewhat to himself. @majohnson

Yes, it appears that you are knocking me. I have no clue what mark uses and will you show where I have knocked anything he has posted.
I only have experience with the 2300 plus rest tops that i have sold.

 

[archerforkids]

Remove the screws that hold the little plate that attaches the boot to the rear of the rest. See if that helps. I've tried several lubes and found that Racing bicycle synthetic wheel bearing grease works best for me.

Mr.Lambert
I've never seen so darn many lubes in my life as when I looked up by bicycle synthetic bearing grease. Was there a particular brand that stood out in performance?

 

[archerforkids]

I'm curious, would there be a benefit to UHMW on the back plate where the tension screws ride?

 

[Grey Kiwi]

If it's any help...I used SRAM bike grease.
Made my Farley slicker than eel snot.
Sent you another reply on RFC about your other problem.

 

[butchlambert]

Mr.Lambert
I've never seen so darn many lubes in my life as when I looked up by bicycle synthetic bearing grease. Was there a particular brand that stood out in performance?

I will check tomorrow and will let you know. No, don'r remove your tape. As an experiment I took a couple of my front sliding plates to Commerce Grinding in Dallas when I had some heat treated steel they were doing for me. They were capable to be able grind aluminum. It looked like a mirror finish. It was not as easy to work the joystick as with the tape and lube.

 

[Grey Kiwi]

I'm curious, would there be a benefit to UHMW on the back plate where the tension screws ride?

I had the same thought too. Just a single strip of tape across that plate where the tensioner Delrin buttons ride on. It would be a simple enough thing to do and see how it goes. If you didn't like it then only a few minutes of your time to remove the tape again.
I followed Butch's advice when I first stripped and greased my Farley (but have sold it now).
Also did a fellow club member's Farley...for it's first ever clean and grease after 20 years of ownership!
Yeah, he was happy with the result.

 

[archerforkids]

---

I will check tomorrow and will let you know. No, don'r remove your tape. As an experiment I took a couple of my front sliding plates to Commerce Grinding in Dallas when I had some heat treated steel they were doing for me. They were capable to be able grind aluminum. It looked like a mirror finish. It was not as easy to work the joystick as with the tape and lube.

I appreciate you checking for me

 

[butchlambert]

---

I appreciate you checking for me

I didn't read your post correctly. The tape needs to go on front of the front sliding plate. That plate rides on the rest housing toward the target. I'm afraid if put on the surface that the tension screws ride on may damage the tape and cause problems.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Yes, it appears that you are knocking me. I have no clue what mark uses and will you show where I have knocked anything he has posted.
I only have experience with the 2300 plus rest tops that i have sold.

Nope. Didn't knock you, didn't knock your lube or your rest tops. And I didn't say you knocked Mark either. I pointed out a lube that he uses. Get over it and grow some skin Butch. If I was knocking you, it would be clear to everyone.

 

[majohnson]

Sometimes it feels like a showdown at sunrise Spent a lot working on lubricants. I felt like I could come up with something better than what was previously used. The numbers I get along with the customer reports have all been positive. In my opinion it does take different lubricants in different areas because on the material.

For the bag plate and the body, you have anodized aluminum plates. Then you have a anodized aluminum and a hardened .250” gauge pin, it use allows the 2 plate to work independently for horizontal and vertical travel. Then it tensioner’s pushing against a anodized aluminum plate. Last is the lower plate, it has the tensioners anodized aluminum plate with a steel plate in a groove of anodized aluminum. That’s lots of different surface combinations too lubricate. And all these different lube points are under pressure, so they are trying to push any kind of lubricant away.

Mike and others are correct I do use some expensive lubricants. Both are 500gm containers and cost me $392 plus the additional additives. Sorry I don’t sell it separately from my service. There are a slew of legal issues to bottle up ship products.

Then there’s the legal aspect if a toddler or pet decided they want to taste test. I’m a dog lover have a Golden and a Irish Setter, they mean the world to me. I am sure just like most other dogs lovers, and I would feel like crap if something I sold injured someone else dog. I am always reading different articles on lubricants and how to prevent wash out, to improve what I currently use.

The same with the parts I produce. I just received the first batch of anodized parts, they turned out great. I used a .00005” Mahr drop indicator to and make sure the aluminum did not warp when anodized. It took quite some time to finally get someone to anodize my parts. Two companies just wasted my waiting, and in the end they said they didn’t deal with small shops. Or they suddenly had a 200 piece minimum. Thank you to the customers that have been patiently waiting. I guess with any new product it takes time to get all the processes in place. Now to find a bearing company to work with that onshore.

 

[J.J. Coe]

Sometimes it feels like a showdown at sunrise Spent a lot working on lubricants. I felt like I could come up with something better than what was previously used. The numbers I get along with the customer reports have all been positive. In my opinion it does take different lubricants in different areas because on the material.

For the bag plate and the body, you have anodized aluminum plates. Then you have a anodized aluminum and a hardened .250” gauge pin, it use allows the 2 plate to work independently for horizontal and vertical travel. Then it tensioner’s pushing against a anodized aluminum plate. Last is the lower plate, it has the tensioners anodized aluminum plate with a steel plate in a groove of anodized aluminum. That’s lots of different surface combinations too lubricate. And all these different lube points are under pressure, so they are trying to push any kind of lubricant away.

Mike and others are correct I do use some expensive lubricants. Both are 500gm containers and cost me $392 plus the additional additives. Sorry I don’t sell it separately from my service. There are a slew of legal issues to bottle up ship products.

Then there’s the legal aspect if a toddler or pet decided they want to taste test. I’m a dog lover have a Golden and a Irish Setter, they mean the world to me. I am sure just like most other dogs lovers, and I would feel like crap if something I sold injured someone else dog. I am always reading different articles on lubricants and how to prevent wash out, to improve what I currently use.

The same with the parts I produce. I just received the first batch of anodized parts, they turned out great. I used a .00005” Mahr drop indicator to and make sure the aluminum did not warp when anodized. It took quite some time to finally get someone to anodize my parts. Two companies just wasted my waiting, and in the end they said they didn’t deal with small shops. Or they suddenly had a 200 piece minimum. Thank you to the customers that have been patiently waiting. I guess with any new product it takes time to get all the processes in place. Now to find a bearing company to work with that onshore.

Have you tried FK Bearings? They've been great to work with for our needs in the race car industry. Aurora rod ends is anouther but we prefer FK