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Faceing a reloading die

I am having trouble getting to the correct headspace on a 6BR die. No matter how I do it there is just no enough set back. Rather than pitch the die has anyone faced off a die about .010 and using shims? Any thoughts on the subject would be helpful. I have never had this problem before.
Thanks,
Jerry1
 
jerry1 said:
I am having trouble getting to the correct headspace on a 6BR die. No matter how I do it there is just no enough set back. Rather than pitch the die has anyone faced off a die about .010 and using shims? Any thoughts on the subject would be helpful. I have never had this problem before.
Thanks,
Jerry1

Yes. I've faced off the bottom of a die for other people. Stick the die in a lathe collet, use a carbide tool ground to a sharp point.
 
I also have faced off the bottom or dies.
If you have the means to do it have at it. Else, try turning the shell holder upside down on some 400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and making figure 8's with it and see if you can get there that way.
 
Erik Cortina said:
I also have faced off the bottom or dies.
If you have the means to do it have at it. Else, try turning the shell holder upside down on some 400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and making figure 8's with it and see if you can get there that way.

I have done this and it is easier, and cheaper, than fooling with the die.
 
CatShooter said:
Erik Cortina said:
I also have faced off the bottom or dies.
If you have the means to do it have at it. Else, try turning the shell holder upside down on some 400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and making figure 8's with it and see if you can get there that way.

I have done this and it is easier, and cheaper, than fooling with the die.

You can Cut some shim stock put in the shell holder pick up 2-3 tho most shell holders are real loose, or buy persision holders from redding?
 
Catskinner said:
CatShooter said:
I have done this and it is easier, and cheaper, than fooling with the die.

You can Cut some shim stock put in the shell holder pick up 2-3 tho most shell holders are real loose, or buy persision[sic] holders from redding?

The "precision" (competition) shell holders from Redding will make cases longer, not shorter (which is what is needed here).
 
If the die is the problem then fix the problem. A 'smith can take your die and shell holder and measure how much setback you can get with it by using a headspace gauge. Then it's a simple matter of shaving a small amount off the bottom of the die.
 
clowdis said:
If the die is the problem then fix the problem. A 'smith can take your die and shell holder and measure how much setback you can get with it by using a headspace gauge. Then it's a simple matter of shaving a small amount off the bottom of the die.

But the die might NOT be the problem... the chamber might be short. If you shorten the die, forever after, it makes short cases.

It is easier and cheaper to shorten the case by lapping the shell holder.. and when you get the rifle re-barreled, you keep the shell holder for special needs (or toss it in the trash).

Comp-10.jpg
 
Hi Jerry,,,,,these guys are all right,,,there are lots of wana-be gunsmiths who think its proper/better to make the chamber shorter than sammi to show their "expertice" as a gun builder,,,this messes up everything,,,,unless you have a Savage rifle,,,then just screw the bbl out enuff to make it work,,,,check your rifle chamber with a go guage and set your dies accordingly (with the same guage),,,Roger
PS,,I like to take material off the bottom of the die,,,when you make the rim thin ( usually when more than .010")on a shell holder they can/will fail when extracting the ctg. from the die,,,,
 
Chuck the shell holder in a drill press. Run it down on a "well oiled" sharping stone. Takes as much or as little off as you want and it looks machined when you get done. Make a few that way so you have a selection for future problems. ;)
 
The main problem with doing the die is that it is hardened, much easier to shorten a shell holder. If you have the tools to do the die, there is usually such a big chamfer at the opening, that you have plenty of room to take off the little bit that you will need to remove before any of the working part of the die is affected.
 
BoydAllen said:
The main problem with doing the die is that it is hardened, much easier to shorten a shell holder. If you have the tools to do the die, there is usually such a big chamfer at the opening, that you have plenty of room to take off the little bit that you will need to remove before any of the working part of the die is affected.

Boyd shell holders are hardened also.

Tis the reason God created surface grinders.... ;D
 
aj300mag said:
BoydAllen said:
The main problem with doing the die is that it is hardened, much easier to shorten a shell holder. If you have the tools to do the die, there is usually such a big chamfer at the opening, that you have plenty of room to take off the little bit that you will need to remove before any of the working part of the die is affected.

Boyd shell holders are hardened also.

Tis the reason God created surface grinders.... ;D

I have done this using a drill press with good results.
 
Talking with a fellow shooter over the weekend who related a story about a rifle he'd had trouble with when bumping shoulders back.

Don't recall the cartridge involved but he tried everything he & a few others could think of to get the brass sized properly & not run into problems with the next reload & firing.

Turns out somebody finally got the idea to measure the GO gauge used when the rifle was chambered. Turned out to be 0.014" shorter than minimum spec for that particular cartridge. Go figure....

Sometimes trusting the tools you buy for a job can get you into troubled waters unless you go back to the beginning & verify what they're supposed to be doing for you prior to use.
 
The die and chamber have to match. In some sense, it doesn't matter how you get there. Just be aware that the sizing at base, body/shoulder and shoulder bump are all coupled. You can't change one without changing the others. Some more than others, though.

If it's shoulder bump that's the issue, you can generally correct it as everyone is talking. Top of shell holder, bottom of die. In some sense, it doesn't matter which. I'm fond of the shell holder route.

If it's sizing at the base that's the issue, getting more by shaving die or shell holder isn't the answer...unless your bump is way short as well. The answer there is generally polishing out the rear of the chamber, a "small-base die" or a custom die.
 

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