It's really no different than tuning at a match without a tuner.Absolutely, studying group formations and atmospheric conditions are the key to learning what your rifle wants to shoot.
It's really no different than tuning at a match without a tuner.Absolutely, studying group formations and atmospheric conditions are the key to learning what your rifle wants to shoot.
Hi Mike, I’ve not had a chance to redo the full tuner test with that rifle but I’m away at Bisley for a competition so thought I’d try a few shots on our 600 yard electronic target. I did as you suggested and moved the tuner in 2 divisions and the gun shot great after the high left shots number 3+4 I lowered the elevation by 1/4 MOA and the rest of the group was great considering the F class bull is 6” and the V is 3” more testing when I get home. By the way tune 24 didn’t shoot as well!Different conditions from day to day may affect it a small bit, but I'll suggest this. Move the tuner IN 2 lines(30), toward receiver from where you started your test and let me know how that group looks. It's a little bit of a swag but I bet it dots up pretty well right there.

Good deal! NiceHi Mike, I’ve not had a chance to redo the full tuner test with that rifle but I’m away at Bisley for a competition so thought I’d try a few shots on our 600 yard electronic target. I did as you suggested and moved the tuner in 2 divisions and the gun shot great after the high left shots number 3+4 I lowered the elevation by 1/4 MOA and the rest of the group was great considering the F class bull is 6” and the V is 3” more testing when I get home. By the way tune 24 didn’t shoot as well!
Thanks for the time you’ve taken to reply.
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When I bought my Ezell tuners I was told not to skip a single number when doing the ladder test. What I wasn't told was to start one full turn out. Seems everyone else knew about this but me?I’m new to using a tuner so I could do with any tips.
I’ve had an Ezell tuner fitted to my .284 Shehane and have just got back from the range with results of my first tests.
In the attached image I started from the left at 0 (which in effect is nearly 1 turn out from the fully wound in position) I then shot 3 shot groups moving the Ezell out 3 divisions at a time. I did this until I reached a full rotation out and arrived at +30 on the tuner.
I got some interesting groups at 0, +6,+24 and +30
Just wondering how to interpret and where to go next, do I explore the flat vertical around 0 to +6 or to look at testing either side of group +24 ( I did have a few rounds left at the end of the test and +24 was a repeatable group)
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Any advise would be appreciated
Thanks
David
Because that's not necessarily true. I do tuner instruction in detail by phone and I include a pretty generic instruction sheet with them. Both say to start from 1/2-1 full turn from bottomed out. Most people bring zero to the top anywhere within that range. But where you start isn't as critical as where you end up, but yes, I recommend what I just stated. The one thing I don't do is leave my customers short on instruction and I do my best to make myself available by phone during business hours. This is a big part of why I ONLY do business by phone. So we can go over every detail and to answer every question I possibly can. Instructions and service are very important with tuners and I take pride in offering this better than anyone.When I bought my Ezell tuners I was told not to skip a single number when doing the ladder test. What I wasn't told was to start one full turn out. Seems everyone else knew about this but me?
Is this the "ladder" test you did?When I bought my Ezell tuners I was told not to skip a single number when doing the ladder test. What I wasn't told was to start one full turn out. Seems everyone else knew about this but me?
You would kind of want to be able to go an equal amount either way from the get go.When I bought my Ezell tuners I was told not to skip a single number when doing the ladder test. What I wasn't told was to start one full turn out. Seems everyone else knew about this but me?
Why or why not? There's an answer. If ya don't know, you should say that. Your answer implies you don't.You would kind of want to be able to go an equal amount either way from the get go.
not knowing what its going to do yet from the first shot
Ok, I would want to be able to turn in or out from the start.Why or why not? There's an answer. If ya don't know, you should say that. Your answer implies you don't.
Im all for helping but there's already way too much plain wrong info out there about tuners. So just please stop.
Are you reading the thread and do you know how many marks are within a half or a full revolution?Ok, I would want to be able to turn in or out from the start.
As opposed to only being able to turn outward
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say if all I needed was to be able to go 1 increment inward
I would not be able to if I started all the way bottomed out
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I am speaking from my own recent experience
I am using an EC tunerAre you reading the thread and do you know how many marks are within a half or a full revolution?
My instructions are to start anywhere from a half to a full revolution from bottomed out. There are 32 marks per revolution. IOW, it appears you are not familiar.
Well, this thread is about a different tuner. Its in the title. Not trying to be a Richard but instruction should not be inferred between makes, as there can be significant differences.I am using an EC tuner
