nosualc said:
I'm not sure what you're options are for a Stevens, but a good trigger would also be one of the first places I'd start. You don't need/want a super light BR trigger but something that breaks clean/consistent @ 1 to 2 lbs would be a good place to start.
Unsupported? I'm not sure exactly how you're doing it, but you can make a fist with your left hand to support the rear of the stock. Squeezing your fist will give you some elevation control. Maybe that's what you're already doing. A small field/squeeze bag to support the rear of your stock would be a good place to improve (and get rid of the rear sling stud).
What is the twist on your barrel? Is a longer bullet an option? Over 300 yards, it's all about BC.
Does your Stevens use an AR mag? Not sure why you're loading to fit that mag. Use as much length as you can. If you want to maximize your options, use it as a single shot, and tune your load as best you can (possibly jamming).
Good luck!
-nosualc
First of all, thanks for the responses. NOS, the twist is 9. IIRC it has a Timney trigger (I traded for this and a Savage 93 at the same time and one had a Timney the other a Rifle Basix) It's at least smooth and crisp.
I tried some 80s one time even though I knew it was unlikey to handle my twist.....I couldn't get even these bullets to touch the lands with less than minimal insertion into the case. This thing I assume just has a looooong throat. Or it's all shot out and I don't know it ;D
I have one set of dies that I don't want to adjust a lot and also load 55 vmax for my R-15.
Also shooting a DPMS Oracle 308 so holding one tighter than the other will take some thought process when shooting.
BoydAllen said:
I would suggest two things. Preload the bipod legs, and do a lot of dry fire practice, in position, paying attention to how the cross hairs move as the shot breaks, and your follow through. When shooting with less than ideal support, the position of your finger on the trigger, and the direction of pull become even more important than when the rifle is well supported. Often shooters get their hand comfortable on the stock, and then make contact with the trigger in a way that is the result of that hand position, when it would be better to let the desired trigger contact point and direction of pull determine where the hand is placed. Another thing is to keep adding pressure till the shot breaks. It is worth noting that paying close attention to the wind is also very important. Roughly speaking, the effect of a given cross wind quadruples when the distance is doubled, and is around nine times greater when the distance is tripled. This factor alone, could be responsible for most of your group size (in MOA) increases.
How would you recommend pre loading the bipod on a wooden or contrete bench without a front stop? I think currently I'm in the field of people who grip the stock and put too much finger on the trigger, it just feels so awkward trying to shoot with only the finger tip. I'll work on that. Also, I've been struggling with the wind at our range for a while now. It will be blowing over my shoulder from right to left at the table and 90* left to right at the target, and of course there are the shorter distance berms that redirect the wind at their leisure it seems. I should put out some flags but I'm working on reading the grass and mirage for strength and direction as there aren't likely to be flags out in the hunting field.
I pretty much just lucked into this load working so well with the Stevens, I can't seem to get my AR's below MOA and the 308 is good one day and not so much the next.
I'm still working out loads. What I've done is zero @ 100, shoot at 400, knowing the absolutes like temp, BC, and changing the velocity to match known drops.
Yesterday the Stevens is zero @ 100, calculated dialup for 200 put me 2" high and calculated dial up for 400 was pretty much right on.
Last week the 308 elevation @ 400 was right on, but yesterday the same elevation settings put my 4" low.
Lots to still work out in this game.
